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Shim making guide. with pictures

lock picking techniques, videos, lessons, skills and building them so you can pick locks in nanoseconds.

Moderators: Kaotik, Chucklz

Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby nostromo » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:20 pm

dev070,

Padlocks that are shimmable have spring loaded locking bolts. That is, you can close and lock them without having to use the key, like the Master Combination padlocks. If you have to use the key to close and lock the shackle, you would not be able to move the locking bolt out of the way with a shim, since the plug has to turn to move the bolt.

If you have the key that's easy to check, just see if it closes without a key. Or manipulate the locking dog with a pick and see if it's spring loaded. Or maybe the user remembers if a key had to be used to lock it, or if they can just snap it shut.

The larger, heavier locks with the dual ball bearing 'locking bolts' are not shimmable. SIFC and milspec locks are not shimmable. Pretty much anything that sells for more than a few dollars is probably not going to shim. Those really cheap dollar store padlocks seem to have really sharp edges on the shackle notch that really tears up shims.

It would take more trouble than its worth to make a list of shimmable padlocks, when it only takes a minute to see if the lock can shim, and since there are so many off brands. If you're looking for a practice lock, just check to see if it closes without a key.

Something else to try besides shimming along the shackle on pin tumbler padlocks, especially the cheap imports, is to see if you can reach the locking bolt mechanism through the keyway. You can sometimes release a mechanism that way. Insert an old pick into the keyway as far as it will go. Hold the pick shaft parallel to the keyway, move the pins straight into the pin wells, then push the pick even deeper into the keyway if possible. You are trying to reach the locking bolt that is perpendicular to the shackle arm that is trapped inside the lock.

One way to see if you are in there far enough is to hold the pick against the length of the lock with the tip at about where you guesstimate the shackle notch/locking dog to be, and then mark the spot on the pick that is at the face of the keyway with your thumb or a pencil. That gives you the distance the pick needs to enter the lock body to hit the locking dog. So if you see that the pick is that far in and you are able to touch something, odds are you are deep enough.

So now you move the pick from top to bottom and back, trying to feel for a notch that the end of the pick will push into. If you can catch it, use the pick to move the notch (and the 'bar'/'dog'/whatever you want to call it) toward the pin side of the lock body. If you have engaged the right spot, it will feel distinctly spring loaded and move easily one way yet want to return if moved the other direction. This will often release a spring loaded, locked padlock shackle if you move the notch far enough.

This trick often works with the 4 pin filing cabinet locks that push in to lock and snap out from the face of the lock when opened, btw.
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby LocksmithArmy » Fri Jun 26, 2009 7:11 pm

very nice

but what ever happened to just filing down bobby pins.
in highschool i would take a metal file to a bobby pi and file it down until it was tharp enough to cut skin easily(i would test it on my brother lol)
maby a half an inch shoule be filed. then id pop a lock off some poor kids locker and use it as mine for the rest of the year... shimming it probably 4 times a day give or take

of course you only file the straighht end and you use the rippley end as a handle after you bend it into an L shape(i usually broke off most of the ripply end
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby papa_delicious » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:27 am

I have a cheap "buffalo" combination padlock that is very easy to shim, and I have a "curtis" combo lock that I have not been able to. the locking mechanism looks different inside, but it's a combo lock and can be closed without the key - however you also cannot move the wheel when it is open. the lock also seem to be made well and doesn't rattle like the buffalo. I'm thinking I have a pretty secure lock here (since you can't pick a combination lock), unless there's some easy way of opening these locks without shimming that I don't know about?
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby lupstarr » Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:24 am

what are some other more duriable materials you can use?
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby JACKthePICKER » Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:41 am

this has helped me very much i have always had trobule with shims thanks for the help
:mrgreen:
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby antaean3000 » Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:30 pm

I tried this and used this 8 times and out of the 8 times the lock only opened twice.

The smaller the pointed part of the shim and the longer it is the better.
I think its kinda pointless because after the shim gets bent and you have to make a another one. I believe the stuff the cant is made of is not good enough for shimming.

Proper shims are made of steel not aluminium which is the softest metal around.
any metal that bend easily wont stand much of a chance of catcjing the latch withing a padlock. I was lucky getting my lock to undo twice.

This is the lock after i shimmed it

Image

Costs £4 from tesco.
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby MrRusswarez » Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:08 am

Nice work. :wink:
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby ElAbogado » Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:43 am

Seems to me that using shims to open Master combo locks is kind of like smashing a window to get into a house when you have locked yourself out. It's not that the 3 wheel lock is that difficult to manipulate, or even easier yet, why not just look up the serial number on the back and open it with the combination?

Will the next step be to bypass the cheap lock completely and attack the weak hasp, or the screws that hold the hasp? Cut the chain it's attached to? Maybe just popping the hinge pins would be even easier yet.

I think you guys get the drift here... In my mode of thinking, shimming is a crass street level activity that borders on slipping a latch with a plastic credit card and shows no skill or technique at all. It is really the root level forced entry approach.

Slam me if you will, but this is just one guy's thoughts on this subject.

El Abogado
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby LocksmithArmy » Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:05 am

shimming is essentially the credit card trick... but how many times, as a professional, have you used mica?

Its a viable method of entry when it works. same as shimming a door, or mica or loiding... its all the same, but professionals use it because it works.
I personally see no problem with it.
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby MrRusswarez » Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:11 pm

LocksmithArmy wrote:shimming is essentially the credit card trick... but how many times, as a professional, have you used mica?

Its a viable method of entry when it works. same as shimming a door, or mica or loiding... its all the same, but professionals use it because it works.
I personally see no problem with it.


I agree with that. :wink:
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby ElAbogado » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:08 am

LocksmithArmy wrote:shimming is essentially the credit card trick... but how many times, as a professional, have you used mica?

Its a viable method of entry when it works. same as shimming a door, or mica or loiding... its all the same, but professionals use it because it works.
I personally see no problem with it.


I see no problem with that either from a paid professional's point of view. My problem here is that this is supposed to be a "lock picking" forum and to bypass the locking mechanism and enter the back door is a form of virtual cheating. I thought that this was a forum of challenges, the lock manufacturer vs. the lock enthusiast. If shimming is a legitimate solution to this challenge, then why not just use the rotary pick for everything and say that you can open any lock?

I guess an example would be a car lockout. I went out on Thanksgiving day and opened a Chevy Silverado that had the keys locked inside with the engine running. It was a crew cab model with tinted windows, but I could make out the vague pattern of key cuts on the door key that was visible in the steering column only by looking through the rear window. I went to my CW-1200 and cut what I thought to be the correct pattern, and it opened smoothly on the first insertion of the key. The customer was very impressed with this feat and felt so much better than he would have had I opened the car with the normal car opening tools.

Now, going back 30 years, the older model Weslock key in knob locksets that were very popular had a major defect. A couple of blows on the face of the cylinder with a rubber mallet would pop them right open. I regularly used this technique to open Weslocks, even though I could easily pick them, but with the motive to sell the customer a better lock. I had a 100% success rate in upgrading those locks, making me a lot of money.

Bottom line is, in this forum I expected to find the head to head challenge of defeating the lock cylinder mechanism itself and not enter through the back door. Perhaps the misconception is mine and mine alone. That is all.

El Abogado
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby LocksmithArmy » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:49 am

ElAbogado wrote:
I see no problem with that either from a paid professional's point of view. My problem here is that this is supposed to be a "lock picking" forum and to bypass the locking mechanism and enter the back door is a form of virtual cheating. I thought that this was a forum of challenges, the lock manufacturer vs. the lock enthusiast. If shimming is a legitimate solution to this challenge, then why not just use the rotary pick for everything and say that you can open any lock?


if as you say it is us aginst the lock manufacturers. then shimming is a big default because it is easily fixable. if it as abbout the challange, then yes it wont do any good.

and why not ue the rotary pick you ask.... because its distructive... and I can only do it once because after that I DESTROY my lock it wont be any good...
what a silly question...

anyway, you may be onto somthing with it bing a bypass... but as far as I know bypasses are allowed here.
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby FarmerFreak » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:58 am

ElAbogado wrote:I see no problem with that either from a paid professional's point of view. My problem here is that this is supposed to be a "lock picking" forum and to bypass the locking mechanism and enter the back door is a form of virtual cheating. I thought that this was a forum of challenges, the lock manufacturer vs. the lock enthusiast. If shimming is a legitimate solution to this challenge, then why not just use the rotary pick for everything and say that you can open any lock?
I completely agree with this. This is one the main reasons I stick with this forum. The mods do a good job of keeping most bypass techniques out of public view. There are other forums that talk more openly about bypasses, I'm not saying that they are bad forums, they're not. It's just not my cup of tea, I'm here because I like picking and defeating locks through the lock cylinder without damage. And if you check the open source part of the forum you'll find that I like to make this challenge even harder. :wink:

Even though I don't care to talk about bypass techniques openly. It is important that the manufactures try to make locks that can't be shimmed or bypassed easily.
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby unlisted » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:21 am

Shims are a bypass, but are so well known we allow it in the public forum.


You are right, Bypass is normally reserved for the advanced forums.
New user? Click HERE & HERE & HERE
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Re: Shim making guide. with pictures

Postby raimundo » Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:42 pm

and yet, if some design allows some form of bypass, that should be known to the members here, we should discover it and show it. We have no obligation to hide the flaws built into locks, so if a bypass is possible because of the weakness in design of the cylinder, the bolt etc, this should be exposed so that that lock can be improved or so that consumers can be aware of the need to replace some mechanism that does not perform as needed.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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