My home made barrel key collection (& how to)

[Lauren]

Here's a more recent WB steel lock, circa 1930's is my guess (stamped: Marion,Ohio on the hasp). I like this photo just to demonstrate the precision that I'm able to get in fitting the key in the keyhole. Both of these keys are made from stainless steel stock. I threw the blank key (right) in the photo just for fun. This switch lock cost me about $10.00 on Ebay.

[Lauren]

This brass key was a lot of fun to make. I enjoy putting as much detail as I can into my keys.



Sherburne and Co., Boston, Mass. Suppliers in railroad equipment.

[MBI]

This thread makes me want to start adding some antique padlocks to my collection.

[Lauren]

This Fraim-Slaymaker Hardware Co. padlock is a rather clever design. It has three levers inside. As the key is turned clockwise, the first lever unlocks the hasp. The second lever releases the third lever. The third lever kicks the hasp upward. There's not much security in this key. I didn't have to make any cuts on. I run into this once in a while. By virtue of having the key fit, becomes the coding.



Hasp stamped G & F RY (Georgia & Florida Railway), circa 1906.

[Lauren]

This lock is pretty cool. Most 6-lever padlocks made didn't have cast housings; they were stamped. This lock reminds me of my Ames Sword Co. lock. The key shown in the photo is my own design, and I successfully made it from brass stock. The key head swivels and has a nice feel to it.



HASP STAMPED: 16E21 EAGLE LOCK CO. TERRYVILLE, CT U.S.A. 6 LEVERS.

[Lauren]

This barrel key represent some of my best work yet. I like the detail I was able to machine into the shaft below the key head. This old lock is highly sought out by collectors. The raised hasp pin was used on some of the more older padlocks.



HASP STAMPED: 16
KEY COVER STAMPED: ROMER & CO. NEWARK, N.J.

[Lauren]

Here's another beautiful brass lock with two keys that I made. Notice the extra detail that extends into the key head. The shaft extension makes a much stronger key, and requires a lot of extra time to do. Remember this additional detail is all hand ground using a Dremel cut of disc in my drill press. The level of difficulty really goes up, but the reward of a nice hand crafted key is worth the effort. Proudly made in the U.S.A.



Hasp stamped: THE O.M. EDWARDS CO. SYRACUSE, N.Y. U.S.A.
Key hole cover stamped: TRADE PAOWNYC MARK

[Lauren]

Here's the latest barrel key I made, and a snap shot of some of the important tools, accessories and jigs I used with my drill press.

[dls]

If i could post my pics up here id do it ill be making some vault keys soon for a john tann reliance door
and ill take some pics of the process

[Lauren]

DLS, I would like to see your work. You seem to have a very creative mind based on some of your post.

[dls]

I dont sleep at night and have been known to go three nights without sleep just because i have an idea
going around in my head, Ill see what i can do about getting some pics up, dont expect them to be
ornate designs as most of my work is for everyday use and has to look like the original and be functional too.

[Lauren]

This old Corbin padlock was about to be dissected and rebuilt as I have done with similiar locks, but upon close inspection I saw that the lock was only a three lever unlike my Corbin Railway Express 6-lever padlock. When I attempt to defeat a lock for picking or decoding, I always look for design flaws. This lock just so happens has such a flaw, and that's the drain hole at the bottom of the lock. I knew that if I could pick the lock, the levers would lock in place where I might possibly decode it and make a key.

I picked the lock by inserting a tension hook tool in the key hole. While applying tension clockwise on the internal mechanism at the bottom of the lock, I inserted a second tool through the drain hole to manipulate the levers. I knew that the levers were in picked position once they got stuck, similiar to what pins do on modern day tumbler locks.

After I picked the lock open, I made a special decoding tool consisting of two overlapping wires that are inserted through the drain hole. One of these wires has a circuliar end which curves around the center pin in the key hole. The second wire has a ninety degree tip which is inserted until it hits the face of the lever that I'm decoding. The opposite ends of the two overlapping wires are measured using the tip of my dial calipars. I calculated the distances from the inside surface of the key hole center pin to the face of each lever and translated these measurements into depth cuts. I made a key blank, smoked it with a candle to get my reference for the first cut, and preceeded to make a perfectly working key.



Corbin, BOARD OF EDUCATION.

[Lauren]

Sorry, to everyone following this thread. I've been busy writing future articles for "The Independent Locksmith Journal". It's nice to be finally recognized as a professional writer, and an opportunity I will continue to explore.

Thanks,

Lauren.

[stratmando]

It's Great your work is recognized, Good Deal.

[Lauren]

Thanks . If anyone wants to see my latest work, it will by available on http://www.tiljonline.com/
The first issue should come out in a couple of weeks. The online magazine comes out every two months.