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Bogota Template

When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.

Moderator: mh

Bogota Template

Postby Exodus5000 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:02 am

I made a template for a bogota rake and thought I'd dump it here on the boards in case anyone else might benefit from it.

The distance between the peaks should be perfect, in that the three peaks should rest perfectly under the first, third, and fifth pin stacks in kiwkset, schlage, brinks, and all the knock off brand locks. The peaks are also bell curved for easy sliding into the lock that'll allow the pins to jump nicely.

Kaotik shared with me recently a great idea - to apply templates to a business card, and then cut it out with an X-acto knife. The template can then be applied to metal by clamping it on and just tracing around the template with a fine tip sharpie.

It's a 1:1 ratio - ready for printing. The handle is just stock, the business end of the pick is the handy part.
http://i14.tinypic.com/2rf4mqb.jpg

Enjoy.
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Postby unbreakable » Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:05 am

Thats great!! Thanks for sharing :D :D
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Postby Shrub » Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:05 am

The way i do it is to print the template out and cut it out, then glue it to the metal with paper glue,

Grind to the paper and you are fine, remove the paper and touch it up,
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Postby dmux » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:23 am

nice, i definitly need one of those
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Postby unbreakable » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:26 am

Shrub wrote:The way i do it is to print the template out and cut it out, then glue it to the metal with paper glue,

Grind to the paper and you are fine, remove the paper and touch it up,


Sorry, what do you mean by paper glue?

Just regular glue? Or something special?
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Postby dmux » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:30 am

im guessing just elmers or something like that
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Re: Bogota Template

Postby Kaotik » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:31 am

Exodus5000 wrote:Kaotik shared with me recently a great idea - to apply templates to a business card, and then cut it out with an X-acto knife. The template can then be applied to metal by clamping it on and just tracing around the template with a fine tip sharpie.


I was begining to wonder if the process in which I used helped you even remotely, without a return response I was unsure. Glad it helped though, the steps in which I have shared with you is how I have always done it.

It also eliminates the step which Shrub describes by pasting a piece of copier paper to the pick, never tried it so I can't say it doesn't work.

Shrub, doesn't the paper and glue seem to soften or get soggy from having to quench it several times? Try it out, you would be surprised to see how much the ink can withstand continuous heat from grinding and filing but comes off easily with just about any % of Isopropyl Alcohol (I always use the highest I can find which is 91% found at Wal-Mart).
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Postby Exodus5000 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:27 pm

Kaotik, with your permission I would like to reproduce the steps you outlined for me in this thread. I think it's applicable and it's the most precise way I've seen yet of transferring a template onto metal.

(If you need proof go into the homebrew hall of fame thread and look at some of Kaotik's homemade picks... golly...)
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Postby Shrub » Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:24 pm

I mean paper glue, over here we call it pritt stick but ive heard Db call it somthgin else,

No the paper doesnt get soggy nor come off, i dont get my pick hot enough to need a long quench, i quench ever second and thats a quick dung in and out, if you dont stirr it or try to peel it off its totally fine and is the best way i have found,

Ive tried all the normal engineering methods along with the ones on here and elsewhere and the paper template is the cleanest, most accurite and easiest to do,

I can make a hook pick in around 10 mins from hacksaw to finished sanded pick opening a lock,

BUT its each to their own and use what works best for you of course, theres no right or wrong way other than you either end up with a pick or you dont,
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complicated

Postby raimundo » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:27 pm

sounds complicated, I've made a few and never used a template, just deriving the shape from the dimensions of the metal stock and the chainsaw files, but then I have never made two of them exactly alike either. :wink: I gotta hear how that electobog works out for exodus or shrub. :)
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Postby Kaotik » Tue Oct 24, 2006 6:25 am

Exodus,

Permission granted. I have no problem what-so-ever with this being done, and in the long run many others will certainly benifit if they find it usefull. Thanks for the compliment.

Shrub,

I understand, here they call it a glue stick, it comes in a tube dispencer which turns at the bottom to raise the glue to the top. Yeh, I don't quench mine for no more than the time you specified either. Just wondering though, most glues and papers tend to get soft or peel away when administered into water. I think most of us know it doesn't take much time at all to cool down metal in water, so quenching for a long period of time is indeed not necessary.

As a note, the templates I make are not for Bogota's (though it is a good idea for the newbies and others who find it difficult to place their file in the right spot), I file them from scratch as I found and ray would agree is the best method. I use templates for just about everything else I make though, like anything from single to triple ball, hook/feeler, half diamonds and the infamous spade pick. Soon to come the full diamond, heart and club pick to complete the set.

Will help out in any way I can, if anyone has any questions with the steps please do not hesitate to ask.
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Postby Exodus5000 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:11 am

Here's Kaotik's instructions for template making/transferring:

"First I will say that I don't have a bench type grinder, so all I use is a Dremel tool, Files and sandpaper.

1: Drawing, I start off with sketching out the desired piece i'm working on onto a regular piece of typing paper paying close attention to measurements as I go along. I then transfer the image (usually freehand drawing) to a cardboard style paper (something similar to business card thickness will do).

2: Cutting, cut the template out using an Olfa retractable box cutter or an X-Acto knife, cutting in the middle of the line thickness will be more accurate to measurements than cutting on the inside or outside of the line.

*NOTE: Before applying template or marking, wipe cutting surface clean with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to eliminate any oils or dirt.

3: Application, you can apply the template to the cutting surface (hacksaw blade, kitchen knife ect.) in any way siutable, I usually hold the template with my fingers or clamp it to the cutting surface with a 4" pair of needle nosed vice grips.

4: Marking, with the template in place ready for marking, I simply draw around the template with a fine tipped Sharpy Marker. Twice is sometimes needed if marker skips.

4a: Remove template from cutting surface, but DO NOT wipe with Alcohol or marking will get removed.

5: Grinding, using a Dremel tool with a heavy duty cut-off wheel, remove the large areas of unwanted metal, use a thinner cut-off wheel to get into the tighter spots. *NOTE: A quenching of the metal in cold water is recommended to deter heat between grinding sessions, low heat will insure marker line stays.

6: Filing, file the grinded piece to proper measurements to match the template as perfect as possible. On a personal note, I'm a perfectionist so it must match.

7: Sanding, sand all edges of the tool to minimise the chance of scratching the soft insides of the lock and pins. Using grits from 320-1000 is what I use. Starting with 320 to remove all filing marks and round off edges and repeat the process with progressively finer grits using a light oil (3 in 1 oil) 400,600,800 then 1000 to reveal a beautiful sheen with no sharp or hard edges.

To create a more flawless shine, like my Spade pick has, use an automotive medium rubbing compound and a polishing tip on the Dremel tool to make a mirror shine. (mirror polishing is not needed to alow better picking but mainly just for looks)."
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Postby Exodus5000 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:42 am

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/5105 ... atesb2.jpg

There's a properly sized 1:1 ratio template. I hereby vow to never use tinypic.com again.
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Postby parapilot » Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:34 am

Shrub wrote:The way i do it is to print the template out and cut it out, then glue it to the metal with paper glue,

Grind to the paper and you are fine, remove the paper and touch it up,


I'v been doing it this way since Shrub told me and its by far the best way i have tried. I also dont even bother cutting out the shape, i just cut it so it will fit on the hacksaw blade and the grinder takes care of the excess paper. This way the pick does not distort if you have lots of curves and a thin piece of paper trying to stick it down.

I also use super glue, it sticks fast and is solid. It sands of no problem later when finishing the picks. Once you try this way you wont bother with a messy marker again :D
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Postby Aepok » Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:13 am

Image

How does my bogota pick look?? its my first pick ive made, i wanted a harder one to starrt on to get the feel for making them. any critisism is welcome. click on the link then go to my lockpicks on the side bar.[/img]
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