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I want to disassemble a master lock

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.

I want to disassemble a master lock

Postby VashTSPD » Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:24 pm

I have a bunch of #3 Master Locks and I'm wanting to disassemble one of them so I can repin it or just take out some pins so my little cousins can practice on it. I'm not sure where to begin disassembling :oops:

any pointers on where to start would be appreciated. I searched around a little, and all I could fine were guides on repinning door locks.
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Postby Fah_Cue » Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:05 pm

ima pretty sure you cant repin or open them without distorying them
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Postby VashTSPD » Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:26 pm

Fah_Cue wrote:ima pretty sure you cant repin or open them without distorying them

alright, thanks for the info and quick reply. Guess it's time to get a Kwikset
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Postby illusion » Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:27 pm

Hmm... at the bottom of the lock, around the keyhole, there should be some rivets right?

Grind away at all the rivets and you will be able to pry the front laminate plate off. Once the front plate is gone, you will be able to remove the cylinder, and should you wish, repin it.

I would honestly suggest that you buy your cousin a door lock and take that apart since they are of better quality usualy. :)
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Postby VashTSPD » Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:36 pm

thank you! I searched the garage and we had a Kwikset without keys in there, so I'll probably use that. And I'll grind off those bumps as soon as the sun comes out. thanks again :D :) :o :wink: :P
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destroying a master lock

Postby raimundo » Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:11 pm

to take apart a laminated padlock, (made of stacks of steel stampings) pick a particular laminate, about third from the bottom of thelock,cut into this at a 45 degree angle until you are through the corner rivet, then do the other four corners, other rivet heads not at the corner of the lock are probably not rivets anyway, just stampings that look like rivets to scare you away.when all four corners of a single lamine are cut through the corner rivet, it should allow you to pull the lock apart
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success! and a question. or two.

Postby VashTSPD » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:19 pm

I grinded away at a certain corner for a while, and then looked and I had grinded over two layers away. I grinded at an angle, so I had taken almost one layer off of the other corner's rivet. I didn't think what I was doing was working, so I grabbed a chissil :twisted: and hammer and just pounded off the first layer. That worked alright, but with the added effect of breaking the lock (which I had expected). After I looked at it for a bit, it turns out illusion is a smart guy-I mean, turns out that the rivets were holding the layer on. The one corner I had grinded through didn't have to be chissiled, it just kinda fell off. The spring that is used to push up the shackle was held in place by the same layer as well. so when I rammed off the layer the spring popped off too. and the core came right out :wink: I messed around with the core a little, I took out the bottom pins. I was wondering how to get the plug (inner core) out of the brown part that holds the top pins and springs. I read illusion's guide on disassembly, but I can't seem to find "a small circle-like piece of metal" that's holding the plug in place. It may be different on a padlock core. I'll post some pictures if it would help. And one more question, what holds the bottom pins in place when the key's not in the lock? what keeps them from falling all the way down the hole?

raimundo had a really good sugestion with cutting into the rivet from a few layers in, I'll try that the next time since I have a few more #3 Master locks around.

Thanks for your help everyone :D
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Postby yng_pick » Wed Jul 26, 2006 1:45 am

if you are looking for a rekeyable lock- you can get the 'MA 21 W/O'- it is a rekeyable master #1 padlock. They cost between 13-20 dollars depending on the lock shop you go to- some shops charge a separate charge for the cylinder, on the high end of that price.

There is a number 25 w/o- which is the number 5 rekeyable- number 27, and there are the brass ones, number 24, and I think there might be a couple more.

Of course there are also the Pro-Series masterlocks- those are rekeyable, but a bit more pricey
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Postby Temple » Wed Jul 26, 2006 2:59 am

I prefer the 5200 series American Lock for disassembling and rearanging the pins or just taking some of the pins out. Sorry but I'm not sure of the cost I get most of mine for free. But if your looking for a lock to take apart that would be my suggestion.
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Question about Master padlock '5UP'

Postby sturmgrenadier » Wed Jul 26, 2006 5:47 am

Hey folks. Sorry, I don't know if this is the optimal/proper place to list this question. I tries using a keyword search with 'Master' 'Padlock', 'Opening a ........' and such, but received a zillion entries and none specifically on my question. I recently have had some success at opening Master Padlock No.1 and have today started to work on a larger model. Annoyingly, all of these brand new master locks that I have are packaged in generic, black and white boxes because I assume they were intended for wholesale (I bought them at an auction). This larger padlock reads '%UP' on the bottom so I'm assuming that's the name of the model?

I haven't been picking at it for long, but I am finding it tougher 'pickings' (stupid pun, I admit it). Anyone have any tips for this model? How many pins are inside of it(I'm not goood at feeling/detecting pins)? Is it bulit with more precision than its no.1 cousin (I seem to get this one open with only one or two levering motions of my pick sometimes, and I have heard it's because it is poorly constructed with maybe only one 'binding' pin) Anyway, I'm hoping some of you other pickers might share your experinces and/or expertise with opening this lock. Thanks
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Postby sturmgrenadier » Wed Jul 26, 2006 5:53 am

Also, why does the cylinder have a tendency to popup a bit, rising out of its hole in the padlock case? Is this part of the design that is supposed to impede lockpicking? In any case, it's working; I find it annoying as heck.
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Postby zeke79 » Wed Jul 26, 2006 6:05 am

The UP series of cylinders are designed to be easily keyed to match a customers existing master lock key. You simply instert an existing master lock key from another lock into the 3UP lock while the UP lock is held in a vise. Put the master Up tool on the customers key and strike it with a firm blow from a small hammer while the key is in the new UP lock. The "UP" lock is now keyed to the customers existing key. That is why the plug is protruding slightly, it has not been set to a key yet.
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Postby sturmgrenadier » Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:59 am

Mr. Zeke,
Thanks for the explanation. You answered my next question: why are there no keys included with any of my factory-sealed locks of this kind? Is this Master Up tool that you mentioned a proprietary one? Or can a generic or makeshift one be purchased/easily made? My locks are the '5UP' model so I'm assuming that the process for keying the cylinder is the same as for the '3UP'. So right now, these locks cannot be picked because the pin and driver pins aren't even engaged? THanks again.
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Postby yng_pick » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:11 am

to set the padlock to a key, you place the key into the cylinder.
the tool is a cylinder, about 4 inches long, slotted to fit the head of the key. you hit the tool with a hammer, and it strikes down on only the cylinder, protecting the key and the metal around the cylinder. this breaks the universal pins, and sets them to the key.

on a side note, i can't stand these locks. i have had too many problems with them- from the occasional lock that will not set, to locks that work by the key they are keyed to, but not to any of the 50 keys the customer also has out.

we only keep the number 3 ups, as master does not make a #3 size rekeyable lock.

if you brought the locks to a lock shop with keys, they probably wouldnt charge much to strike them, and set them. (if they have the tool..)

i never considered it, but if someone brought the locks in my shop, i probably wouldnt charge, but i cant speak for others lol
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Postby yng_pick » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:12 am

as far as making the tool- im sure its possible-
you have to account for not hitting the key when you strike to set-
and the part of the tool you place up against the cylinder should contact the cylinder, but nothing else. on the tool itself from master, this part is the size of the cylinder, while the rest of the tool is larger, im sure to make it easier to strike
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