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Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general questions here.
Moderators: digital_blue, zeke79
by EDT » Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:17 pm
I need help! Somebody put super glue in the lock of my door, so it's not possible to insert a key to the lock. The police doesn't do anything, and I had to replace the cylinder several times. Is there any substance that can be used to neutralize the super glue without calling a locksmith to pick my lock and replace it?
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by sfi72 » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:17 pm
Acetone should do the job, as long as its superglue and not epoxy.
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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by mhole » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:34 pm
Acetone is a solvent for CA glue, but I wonder how many of the people recommending it have ever tried to restore a glued lock. IMO unless it's a very expensive lock, or one which is materkeyed or keyed alike and replacing it will be a big inconvenience, I can't see a way to justify the time and misery involved in trying to un-gunk a glued up lock.
Any foks who have actually done this care to pipe up?
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by freakparade3 » Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:15 am
No locksmith will even try. They drill it and replace it.
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by FarmerFreak » Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:40 am
freakparade3 is right.
As a locksmith I can tell you that I have used acetone on a padlock.....once. I did it only to where I could get the key to turn (like crap but it turned). And yes, this was after selling the customer a new lock, and only to see if it would work.
So yes it does work. However it simply isn't worth doing again. Especially if someone is locked out of there house. Keep in mind that gravity isn't going to be on your side if a deadbolt's key way packed full of glue. At least on the padlock it was easy to get the acetone to go where it needed to.
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by mhole » Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:56 am
As I thought. I'm also a working locksmith, and my handful of experience with glued locks says exactly the same thing. I also tried experimenting with a glued tri-cirle padlock I cut off a gate, and despite trying heat, acetone etc I couldn't make any different to it' fubar'ed state.
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by unlisted » Thu Apr 23, 2009 3:13 am
Just to stray a bit from the OP, anyone have any links to "lock protectors" you know, those locks that go over the main lock, and have no "moving" parts or open keyholes?
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by n2oah » Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:18 am
unlisted wrote:Just to stray a bit from the OP, anyone have any links to "lock protectors" you know, those locks that go over the main lock, and have no "moving" parts or open keyholes?
Like the Drumm Geminy Shield?
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by freakparade3 » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:52 pm
unlisted wrote:Just to stray a bit from the OP, anyone have any links to "lock protectors" you know, those locks that go over the main lock, and have no "moving" parts or open keyholes?
I don't have a direct link, but i know they are available from Foley-Belsaw.
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by thecrazy » Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:47 am
^CrAzY^
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by lunchb0x » Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:54 am
unlisted wrote:Just to stray a bit from the OP, anyone have any links to "lock protectors" you know, those locks that go over the main lock, and have no "moving" parts or open keyholes?
Wasn't there a magnetic one on Blackbag, but Barry bypassed it with a magnetic toy? form memory it was simmilar to the Drumm Geminy Shield.
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by EDT » Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:51 pm
Thanks for the replies! My lock was a very expensive Axira high security cylinder. The locksmith who opened my door told me that the glue cannot be removed, and he have to drill the cylinder. He drilled the cylinder for more than a hour, and broke one of his drillers in it. He replaced my cylinder in a cheap cylinder (which was also glued 2 weeks later, while I was at home), and charged me more money than my original Axira cylinder cost me. I guess that if he had used acetone, than he could open the door and would replaced the cylinder much quicker and easier, and it would also cost me less money. The Drumm Geminy Shield looks like a good solution against such vandalism. It comes with a teflon spray that resists glue for 3 months. Is there any substance that also resists welding/soldering? Please assist me also in the following topic: http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=44360
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by mhole » Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:15 pm
Nope, if he'd used acetone he'd have been stuck drilling the lock anyway - read the responses above. There is no way you can free up a lock filled with CA from the outside, certainly not enough to open it without drilling.
If it was a very high security lock it's not surprising it took a long tome to open, though discussion of exactly what causes this isn't appropriate in the open section of the forum.
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by globallockytoo » Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:13 pm
Interesting responses.
How come nobody suggested paint thinners?
It is the best solvent. Squirt it in. Wait 20 minutes. Lube with teflon or silicone based lube and key will probably turn.
Paint thinners is acid based and will eat through almost anything.
Acetone (today) has the acid properties removed. So it can be used as a safe nail polish remover.
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by vmikulich » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:44 pm
Superglue is an ethyl cyanoacrylate. Therefore you should be able to clean it out using Nitromethane. You can also use Methylene chloride, but it is a toxic substance so be careful with it. I have used Gamma-butyrolactone (a type of paint remover) because it has low toxicity and can be found at a hardware store. GBL is also used as a "party drug" so your state might have restrictions on buying it. But you should be able to get a paint stripper with it at your hardware store to clean out the lock.
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