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Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general questions here.
Moderators: digital_blue, zeke79
by psehorne » Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:08 am
psehorne wrote:I have located a used HPC 1200.
It has the 14mc Cutter only.
Paul
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psehorne
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by psehorne » Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:19 am
psehorne wrote:I have located a used HPC 1200.
Seller states "the holder pin snapped off during shipping when i had bought it a few years back". I'm still not sure what he is referring to. Will this be a problem? He states that it has only been used as a backup machine and has not seen much use.
Paul
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psehorne
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by Evan » Sun Sep 04, 2011 1:52 pm
psehorne wrote:psehorne wrote:I have located a used HPC 1200.
Seller states "the holder pin snapped off during shipping when i had bought it a few years back". I'm still not sure what he is referring to. Will this be a problem? He states that it has only been used as a backup machine and has not seen much use.
LOL... It is a second-hand machine... (i.e. the person selling it is not it's original owner) HPC will authorize a damaged goods return shipment authorization for a machine broken during shipment and repair or replace it at their discretion... It sounds like junk to me but then again I can't see the machine in question from here... ~~ Evan
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by I Pik U » Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:45 pm
A Jenson Microdial keycrafter is an easy to use machine. Not sure how well it will hold double sided car keys though, as we never cut cars keys on it. The vice is limited to two sides, both being just straight clamps with no edges to fit into blanks, one shallow and the other deap. 
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I Pik U
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by psehorne » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:39 am
First off, thanks to those of you that helped me with my quest to buy a code machine.
I bought the HP 1200 that I referred to before. It turns out to be a very nice machine... in good shape... and, as stated before came with 100+ cards.
I have cut a couple of keys successfully, and I've checked the shoulder to cut spacing calibration and the depth calibration. Both were very near right on... although, I did touch up the spacing a hair. I don't yet have a tip stop so I have not yet checked that calibration. And I know that if I do adjust it I will have to go readjust the shoulder to cut spacing also.
I was able to remove the broken Pivot Pin and the 1/4-20 threads are intact. And I just finished making a new Pivot Pin on my lather. I've attached a pic of the machine and closeup of the new Pivot Pin.
Now I just need to buy a CM-1011 cutter for the smaller keys, and I should probably get at least a standard tip stop too.
I'm enjoying the hobby and really appreciate the help you all have offered.
Thanks,
Paul
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psehorne
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by psehorne » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:41 am
psehorne wrote: I've attached a pic of the machine and closeup of the new Pivot Pin.
Don't know what I did wrong, but I don't see the pics.
Paul
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psehorne
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by cledry » Sat Sep 17, 2011 12:01 pm
If you can see the machine before purchase make sure the dials move smoothly with just a little resistance, check for bent needles, check motor alignment it should be parallel to the cutter shaft. Check the shoulder gauge hasn't been ground on or run into the cutter (the newer machine protects against this). You should get two special wrenches for changing cutters and at least a few common cutters. I think we use 8 different ones but we are locksmiths, but you will at least want the CW14MC and the CW1011 psehorne wrote:I have located a used HPC 1200. The seller can't tell me exactly which model. Says all he knows is that it is a 1200. I can tell from the pics that it is not the PCH; I just don't know if it is a 1200CM or 1200CMB. I've asked him the age and am awaiting his email reply.
It supposedly has seen little use; so regardless of its age, it may be in good working condition.
He says it is "missing cutter wheel holder on top". I have looked at the exploded view in the PDF manual and I can't determine exactly what he is referring. But supposedly the missing item does not affect its performance.
It comes with approximately 180 cards, and the asking price is $950. I have not yet seen the unit other than in pics.
Since this is new territory for me, I would appreciate the benefit your collective experience. What questions should I ask? What should I look for? etc.
Thanks, Paul
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cledry
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by psehorne » Sat Sep 17, 2011 12:17 pm
cledry wrote:If you can see the machine before purchase make sure the dials move smoothly with just a little resistance, check for bent needles, check motor alignment it should be parallel to the cutter shaft. Check the shoulder gauge hasn't been ground on or run into the cutter (the newer machine protects against this). You should get two special wrenches for changing cutters and at least a few common cutters. I think we use 8 different ones but we are locksmiths, but you will at least want the CW14MC and the CW1011
Cledry, Thanks for your advice/pointers. I have the machine it is nice, checks out fine. It came with the CW14MC cutter. I ordered and have received the CW1011 and the standard tip stop. Paul
Paul
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psehorne
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by cledry » Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:28 am
You shouldn't need to readjust the spacing once you install the tip stop. Once the spacing is correct it is correct for either stop. The "Holder Pin" sounds more like the handle for swiveling the cutter head, pull up and swivel the cutter head left or right for cutting Medeco keys. Medeco uses a different cutter BTW.
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cledry
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by psehorne » Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:07 am
cledry wrote:You shouldn't need to readjust the spacing once you install the tip stop. Once the spacing is correct it is correct for either stop.
From the manual I gather that the tip spacing must be set before the shoulder spacing. If the tip spacing is adjusted it requires readjusting the shoulder spacing. Chapter 8 states If re-adjustment of space is needed, follow the instructions for tip-gauged space adjustments first. Then proceed with shoulder-gauged space adjustments. Because the tip gauges are built into the bottom jaw and the shoulder gauge is mounted on its own pivot, re-adjusting the shoulder gauge may not properly re-calibrate your 1200CMB
also Note: Re-calibration of tip does necessitate re-calibration of shoulder space.
cledry wrote:The "Holder Pin" sounds more like the handle for swiveling the cutter head, pull up and swivel the cutter head left or right for cutting Medeco keys. Medeco uses a different cutter BTW.
You are correct. The gentleman that I bought the machine from said the "spare cutter holder is broken off". I think he must not have known what its real use is. I found it listed in the parts list as the "Pivot Pin", and know what it is used for. Thanks for your input.
Paul
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psehorne
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by lock-ed » Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:08 pm
I Pik U: What a very nice machine Could I encourage you to post detailed pictures of the vise, in particular? I am in the process of modifying a small lathe in order to make one-off lever-lock keys. What I am missing is a good multi-jaw for holding different diameter blanks. Any more info on the machine would be absolutely great Thx in advance, Ed Pm sent
 The rule of the six P´s: Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance
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lock-ed
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by I Pik U » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:10 pm
I will take some more detailed pictures, including the vice area.
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