Re-pinning: Top Pin and Spring Issue

[chaos4zap]

Ok, so before I knew any better...there were a couple of padlocks that I wanted to take apart to see what kind of pins were in them. With this particular batch of locks (one is a American government series, a brinks all brass pad and I think there is one other), I mistakenly let the springs and top pins fall into the chamber. I understand the use of a plug follower in some cases, but it doesn't seem to work with these locks. Since these are padlocks, they have the cam on the back to operate the lock mechanism and if I try and push the plug in, pushing the improvised plug follower in front of it, the top pins and spring pop out at the cam area at the back of the plug and don't stay in there until the full sized portion of the body enters the housing. As a result, I can't seem to get the springs and top pins back in these locks. I'm ok with picking, but I still have much to learn about this portion of the locksmith trade. I feel like I'm not explaining it clearly, but I'm guessing that if you have experience with re-keying locks, you will probably recognize what I'm talking about right away. I was, probably painstakingly, under the impression that all plug followers were created equal and were generic and could by improvised. I am now thinking that there must be a special type of plug follower for these types of locks. I used the search function and google as well and couldn't locate anything specific to this topic. Any advise you guy's (and gal's?) may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Of course, with all of these locks, the spring is too long for the spring and top pin to just sit in the chamber while I insert the plug.

[MacGyver101]

Ah... good question.

When I've run into this problem in the past (different locks) I've improvised a number of "custom" plug followers, in order to make life easier. On a couple of occasions I've used hot glue sticks as a makeshift plug follower, and have carved an appropriate notch out of one end of the glue stick (with a utility knife) so that it fits snugly around the "tailpiece" on the end of the plug.

I'm sure there are better materials out there: it just happened to be handy and about the right size. (Some of the glue sticks are a bit waxy, and might leave residue in the lock... so either use them at your own risk, or put a wrap of cellophane tape around the outside to prevent anything from transferring onto the drivers.) I'm sure I've seen aluminum ones sold commercially that have different notches cut out of the end, for just the situation you're asking about.

[MacGyver101]

I'm sure I've seen aluminum ones sold commercially that have different notches cut out of the end, for just the situation you're asking about.

Ah... that was easier to find than I thought it would be; here are two examples (from our site sponsor):

• Delrin plug follower set
• Aluminum plug follower set

[chaos4zap]

Nice....Much obliged. Given the simple nature, and job, of plug followers...it's hard for me to imagine paying for an actual set. I made a small hook, half-diamond, several Bogota's, Falle style tension wrenches, my own tubular pick....and I'm going to pay for a commercial plug follower? I'd imagine that these are mostly for convenience and most L-smiths have their own that they made at one time or another, but it's good to know these exist. Glue stick.....I think I will have to try that out. I guess the moniker of MacGyver has been truly earned.

[averagejoe]

You could also go down to your local hardware store and get a piece of wooden dowel. Relatively cheap and you can make several custom followers (or give you several chances to get it right )

[spooky]

It sounds like the problem is that you don't have access to the back of the cylinder and a plug inserted into the one open end blocks access for inserting top pins and springs.

I've never done this so I'm just brainstorming but a rolled up piece of paper can work as a plug follower (that part I've done) and you could work a pair of tweezers through the open end of the paper tube.

I'm not sure how you remove the tube to insert the plug though.

I'm lost.

[MacGyver101]

It sounds like the problem is that you don't have access to the back of the cylinder and a plug inserted into the one open end blocks access for inserting top pins and springs.

No. His problem is that the back end of the plug that he's working with isn't flat: there's a protrusion that's sticking out, which prevents a simple cylindrical plug follower from fitting flush with the back of the plug... and the gap between them is big enough to allow the drivers/springs to fall down.

The solution is to make a plug follower that has a notch cut out of it (whatever material you choose to use) so that it fits snugly with the back of the plug.

[keysman]

It sounds like the problem is that you don't have access to the back of the cylinder and a plug inserted into the one open end blocks access for inserting top pins and springs.

No. His problem is that the back end of the plug that he's working with isn't flat: there's a protrusion that's sticking out, which prevents a simple cylindrical plug follower from fitting flush with the back of the plug... and the gap between them is big enough to allow the drivers/springs to fall down.

The solution is to make a plug follower that has a notch cut out of it (whatever material you choose to use) so that it fits snugly with the back of the plug.

or use a standard shim as a bridge

[MacGyver101]

. . . or use a standard shim as a bridge

Ah, now that's an excellent tip that I hadn't heard before. Thanks!