A practice "cutaway" lock that was SO easy to make

[mh]

Usually, cutaway locks are very nice to look at, they show the features of advanced locks, and they also require a lot of effort and skill to make them.

Not this one...

When I tried to pick a American Series 2000 padlock (which I originally bought because I liked the heavy construction with no boltcutter access), I became quickly frustrated with this 6 pin lock.
The keyway is wide open (unlike on most German locks), but I simply couldn't feel the shear line.
So I removed the pins just to find that they are nearly all serrated, even the bottom pins, except for the shortest ones, and (of course) that the last 4 top pins are spools (but even serrated spools):



I also tried an electric pickgun, because that's one of the few locks I found in my collection with a wide enough keyway, where the momentum-transfer-principle should at least in theory work... It didn't, probably, because I don't have enough training.

Anyway, I thought:
If I want to know what's going on on in this lock, I have to look inside, while picking it.

And then came the part that was so surprisingly easy that I really want to share it with you.

Here's the whole lock (already in the "cutaway" state):



And here is a closeup of the cylinder with a clear view on the pins:



Note that you can't see the shear line, as you can with some other cutaway locks, but I think that's actually an advantage, because the feeling of the binding pins is unchanged - it might be changed if part of the lock is cut away at the shear line.

What you can however see is the position of the pins, in the last picture they are all aligned. Now I was able to compare my 'feeling' to the actual position of the pins.


And it was SOOOOO easy to make:

1) Remove the plug and subsequently the pins and springs.
2) Use a metal file to file down the side of the lock, until you can see the positions of the pins - when the metal around the pin holes is thin enough, you will see it. However, you can't file it away properly, because it's too thin and will just bend below the file. Anyway,
3) once you can see the shape of the pin holes (rectangular, because you look at the side of them), put the uncut side of a drill bit inside the pin holes, to bend the thin metal to the outside again, then file it down a little bit more.
4) Now the metal around the pin holes should be thin enough, and you can cut it away with a knife or something similar, leaving rectangular openings that are of course thinner that the pins. If they were a wide as the pins, you would have filed too much, and the pins wouldn't hold in the lock anymore.
5) Use the drill bit (the side that's cut) to make sure the pin holes are clean inside
6) Insert the springs & pins & plug again - and:

DONE!
Have fun with your new practice lock!


It helped me a lot to be able to see the pins from the side.
If I want to stop myself from cheating, I simply mount it inside the lock body again

Cheers,
Michael

[Treeson]

Great job, and that was an excellent guide!!! Much better than my first 'cutaway' lock. I think I am definetly going to have to try this on my American Lock as well, and I will post results.

I really like your idea of not including the shear line in your filing, your right, if you cut to the shear line, theres a good chance you will take away from the smooth operation of the lock.

I like the way that this lock appears to be used at least. It seems you were having touble with this lock, and instead of making large and ugly interfering cuts, the file away method is really informative. You will be able to see when the pins are at the correct height while stilll using all sense of correct feel. I find that many cutaways can hamper a newcomer's picking abilities. It helps understand the theory, but they just become so dependent on visual capabilities. It's also really nice how you are able to put the cylinder back into the lock and still have it maitain full functionability.

My first cutaway is very bulky and ugly, and not very pratical as my cut, which were all done by hand, interefere in the picking process.

I hope that this gets stickied, and at the very least, reffered to newcomers who are interested in cutaways,


Thanks again for the guide,

Treeson

(P.S.- Excellent pictures)

[dmux]

where did you get the cylinder?

[What]

where did you get the cylinder?

he said it was out of an American 2000 series padlock.

[dmux]

how did he get it out, thats what i want to know, i can never get cylinders out of locks

[Treeson]

In the American Lock, you look down the hole where the shackle goes once you open it. Theres usually a screw or an allen screw (not sure which, it depends) After you unscrew that, the cylinder will fall right out.

Note-not all locks are rekeyable, you cant take the cylinder out of all padlocks.

[mh]

how did he get it out, thats what i want to know, i can never get cylinders out of locks

Well, this one is particularly easy, it's a series 2000 padlock, where pulling out the cylinder is part of the opening process. A picture of the lock is here:
http://www.jmlock.com/index.asp?PageAct ... ProdID=148

On page 8 of this Service Manual you can see the concept:
http://www.americanlock.com/A-004_Servi ... -20-05.pdf

The "schackle"-bolt is attached to the cylinder, and if turned 90 degrees, both can be pulled out together. There is a limit to that (1 inch or so), but you can easily remove the retaining screw that's responsible for this limit.

Cheers,
mh

BTW, how do I edit the subject of my post?
It currently reads
"A pratice lock ("cutaway") that was SOOOO easy to"
and it should read
"A pratice lock ("cutaway") that was SOOOO easy to make"
Strange. There seems to be a length limitation(?)

[clayton1123]

How about a tubular cut away lock?

[mh]

How about a tubular cut away lock?

Do you want to make one?
It's a little bit more difficult, not just one area to file away of course, as not all pins are in a row.
I would recommend to take a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel for that.

Do post pics of the result

[dmux]

thanks for the info guys!, wow, i had an american 5200 and i took that srew out and wallah...

this is soo cool to mess with, man, i cannot wait to get a file and make my cutaway this weekend

[mh]

How about a tubular cut away lock?

Late, but - yes
viewtopic.php?t=13535

[Shrub]

You could simply use a junior hacksaw to make some thin cuts in the lock body to see the bottom pins if you wanted to.

Nice guide though, its suppriseing how many locks are easy to make into a cut away with a little thought and skill.

[wollner]

I already have an American series 2000 lock that i bought at a garage sale for 2 dollars -- the catch: no keys . what can i do to take it apart? is it possible to pick it/break into it w/o the keys or am i just wasting my time. i'd really love to learn more about locks and this seems to be an interesting lock to study. i would appreciate any help!
-David

[mh]

I already have an American series 2000 lock that i bought at a garage sale for 2 dollars -- the catch: no keys . what can i do to take it apart? is it possible to pick it/break into it w/o the keys or am i just wasting my time. i'd really love to learn more about locks and this seems to be an interesting lock to study. i would appreciate any help!
-David

Of course you can pick it, it might just be very hard, due to the serrated pins. You could impression it, then you would have a key.
All this is explained somewhere around here, just try a search.

And if this American Series 2000 padlock is not mounted, you could open it with destructive methods more easily than if it was mounted.
Just find a way to pull the cylinder out - either drill the part of the body that holds the end of the 'shackle', or cut / drill the 'shackle'.

Cheers,
mh