Is the pick at the top of this thread effective on 7 pin center locks as well? I was reading on lockpicks.com, its meant for 8 pin, and the 7 pins in both directions but it didn't mention center. So...is it?

Actually, this pick is 7 pin center ONLY.
But I think the same HPC 8 pin pick can do 7 pin left/right offset and maybe (not 100% but like 90%) 7 pin center.

By the way... does anyone know where (prefferably (central) europe) could I get some tubular locks to practice on? I've been all over my city and locksmiths here don't have a clue.

Search for a tubular bike lock by a brand name Kryptonite. They have a tubular locks on them (7 pin i believe) that you can practise on. Check bike shop.

[quote="Varjeal"]Could you explain a little bit more about what your asking. Are you asking about the notches in the ring where the key is inserted?

If so, this determines the direction the lock must be turned to lock or unlock it.

If this is unclear, please repost and explain a bit more.

Thanks.[/quote]

Thank you too :)

Well, I was mainly thinking about the ring where the key is inserted, and its width. In the pictures of tools I've seen, one can adjust the pins (which I assume go into the notches?), but what about the width of the ring itself? I'm asking cuz I've seen several of these locks, but many of them have different sized rings.

How does the tools work with this; Do you have to get a different sized tool for each lock, or do you just switch ring/"key emulator" on the tool? =>

If you don't follow me here, I'll try to be more clear =)

Thanks again!

The central post on the lock itself plus the number of pins and even the pattern of their placement, determines the type of tool/key that is necessary to operate the lock. You are correct in that there are different sizes.

There are two formats that are the most common so far as I am aware. The standard format, which is talked about most often in these forums and a small format. You must use the proper tool for the proper post size because of the difference of pin spacing, etc.

From what I've read in some of the threads here, some have had success in using standard eight pin tubular picks on standard seven pin locks. I cannot verify this since I've never personally tried it, but it would be worthwhile to check out since it would be one less tool to buy.

The outside "ring" of the lock really doesn't matter much since different companys make their own "distinctive" styles for different reasons, some of them may be for drill resistance, etc.

Hope that helps.

I have both the HPC pick shown and the peterson pro-1a. (by the way, southord now makes a pick like the HPC, and it's about $50 cheaper for the set of 7 +

The main difference is time. WIth the HPC, I can open a generic or ace in about 30 seconds. Some (30%) of the ACEII's will open in about 90 seconds (especially if they have been outdoor locks).

With the peterson, even an easy ace or generic takes 10 minutes or more. Admittedly, I'm not an expert on using it yet, but even on locks I know the settings for I have a hard time, and usually have to repick it several times to get the settings locked in. In short, while the peterson is nice, I could live with the HPC

I also have the Petersen and a SouthOrd, and I agree with your assessment Nasydave. The Petersen I use for 8 pin locks and the 7 offsets and maby Greenwalds or a few AceII s. I always reach for the impression style tool first. If theres someone who wants to see something "impressive" then I will bring out the expensive bad boy.