Lock Picking 101
Lockpicking, Locksmithing, Locksport, Locks and Picks
           

Lock Picking 101
Login
Profile
FAQ
Members
Search
Lock Pick Shop


Information
FAQ & General Information
Locksmith Business
Pick-Fu - Do... Not try.
Got Questions?
General Chatter
Lockpicking 101 Lapel Pin


Hardware
Automatic/Mechanical
Lockpicks - Manual
Locks
Eu Locks, Picks & Hardware
Buy - Sell - Trade


Advanced Locks
Advanced Locks Information
Combo, Electronic & Safes
Automotive Locks and Picks
High Security Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room

Featured Picks
Locksmiths
Locksmiths Forum
 

Ever heard of these???

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general questions here.

Moderators: digital_blue, zeke79

Ever heard of these???

Postby pip187 » Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:21 am

I'm a self confessed newbie, and am trying to get into my first 5 pin tumbler lock. Its called a 'Ruko' lock, and I'm not having much luck with it.

Can you answer me the following;

Why does this lock only have springs in 3 of the 5 pins?

Why do 3 pins have small spacers in them?

What are the pins serrated for (to make picking harder, and causing false setting?)

I dunno - I have removed all but one pin, and still find setting it difficult -- maybe a crap lock??

Sad and dejected;

Pip :oops:
ps. have picked other cheapo locks --- maybe a Ruko lock is too difficult for a beginner? --- do ya know and makes worth starting with (i'm in the UK)
pip187
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:07 am

Is it something like this?

Postby jeepster » Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:41 am

Is it something like the 500 series?

http://www.ruko.dk/visArtikel.asp?artikelID=243
Jeeps
jeepster
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2003 8:43 pm

Postby Varjeal » Fri Oct 24, 2003 10:27 am

If there's 5 pins there should be 5 springs, otherwise it's not a well put together lock. (meaning it's a piece of of junk.)

Not quite sure what you mean by spacers, but if you mean small flat discs between the bottom pins and the drivers, then those are called master pins, and it should make the lock easier to pick as it allows for more possible shear lines.

If the bottom pins have serrations or "rings" cut into them, then it makes the lock more pick resistant.

It sounds like maybe you should try something like a master 4 pin laminated lock, or a no-name lock that is similar, this one your describing sounds like nothing but trouble.

Btw, how did you take it apart?
*insert witty comment here*
Varjeal
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3125
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:05 am
Location: Western Canada

Postby pip187 » Fri Oct 24, 2003 5:16 pm

I took the lock appart by sawing through part of the Hull where I could see the small brass 'bungs' that hold the pin assembly in, and then carefully filing down to the workings. Behind the first hole was a spring, then a serrated driver, then the small disk (about 0.5mm thick), and then a pointed key pin.

The 4th and 5th pin assembly's didn't have these small flat disks (which are all the same thickness, so I didn't think it was for a master key)

Sorry if my terminology is not very good, but am just getting to know names of parts.

Pip (struggling to pick his own nose!!) :D
ps. Thanks for the replies - they are much appreciated.
pip187
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:07 am

Postby Chubby » Fri Oct 24, 2003 7:10 pm

Ummmmm! pick & mix my favorite... :lol:
Support your local locksmith -- lose a key. Support your local institutional locksmith -- lose a master key.
Chubby
 
Posts: 134
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 10:52 pm
Location: SOUTHERN EUROPE.

Postby Varjeal » Sat Oct 25, 2003 6:13 am

The small flat disks do not necessarily need to be the same thickness, nor is it required to have one in each pin chamber. It only takes ONE masterpin to say that a lock has been master keyed.

You may have to measure those discs with calipers to see if they're the same size...they only need to be .005 or .010 of an inch difference to be different sizes.

Regardless, from your initial description, especially the missing springs, it sounds like you have an extremely poor quality lock. I would highly recommend finding yourself another lock.

Good job on tearing that one apart though. Now you'll better understand the inner workings of a padlock, and with that knowledge, it'll give you a better chance of success on the next lock you try.

Best of luck, and keep us posted.
*insert witty comment here*
Varjeal
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3125
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:05 am
Location: Western Canada

Postby pip187 » Sat Oct 25, 2003 7:20 am

After all the messing with that lock, I think my skills have taken a turn for the better. I bought a 5 pin padlock today, and picked it in about 2 minutes 8) The feeling was one of great elation, especially as I could feel each pin setting.

Thanks again for your help and replies - but can you tell me the best way to dismantel a padlock (it seems to have 8 rivits going from top to bottom of the main body - should I just file off the bottom of thise rivits??)

I keep practicing with my original lock by putting just a few pins in at a time --- this is good fun aint it!!!?? :lol:

Pip187
pip187
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:07 am

Postby Varjeal » Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:37 pm

You're definitely right, it is a lot more fun. Actually, now that I've been in here a fair bit, I'm getting more interested in manual picking myself.

I wouldn't advise cutting those rivets off. You may want to buy a rekeyable padlock like an American 1100 series or something similar.

Happy picking.
*insert witty comment here*
Varjeal
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3125
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:05 am
Location: Western Canada


Return to Got Questions?

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 3 guests