Yale Mortise IC 6 pin question

[Doctor Hexagon]

Hey all. I'm at work and have a quick question.

I have a LFIC Yale that is 0 bitted, and nobody happens to know the Defaul Control key bitting for it.

Corbin locks typically have a simple default control key that is 0 bitted except for 2 positions. Would it be similar for the Yale LFIC? Does anyone happen to know the code for the control key?
It take a Y2 key, not a keymark or anything.

I can't provide a picture until this evening at the earliest; trying to make this thing sellable at our convenience.

Thanks.

[Evan]

Hey all. I'm at work and have a quick question.

I have a LFIC Yale that is 0 bitted, and nobody happens to know the Defaul Control key bitting for it.

Corbin locks typically have a simple default control key that is 0 bitted except for 2 positions. Would it be similar for the Yale LFIC? Does anyone happen to know the code for the control key?
It take a Y2 key, not a keymark or anything.

I can't provide a picture until this evening at the earliest; trying to make this thing sellable at our convenience.

Thanks.

@Doctor Hexagon:

Yale LFIC's use a control key which is 1 pin longer than the operating keys...

So for your 6 pin core you will need a 7 pin key to cut for the control...

Any operating key cut on a control blank will allow for removal of a Yale LFIC...

In your case you need a 0 bitted key 7 pin key with a #1 cut on the very tip...

The Corbin-Russwin "default control key" for a 0 bitted core is:
System 70: 113311 and is required because of the way the the control
sleeve works in CR LFIC's...

~~ Evan

[pin_pusher]

evan you beat me to the punch on this one...thought i had a quick answer, but i'll just offer this link instead. an old how-to on removing the cores without the control key:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=49315&p=372846&hilit=yale+core#p372846

[Doctor Hexagon]

Thanks for the swift response.

It seems though that this lock may have been incorrectly reassembled. I tried using a 7 pin 0-bitted key with the 7th space cut at #1 depth. It does the same thing as the 6 pin 0-bitted key.

The plug will rotate almost a full 180 degrees in either direction, but with both the 7 and 6 pin key, it gets stopped by something at abou 170 degrees unless the key is extracted partially.

Could it be that the internals for this IC were not all reassembled properly before the core was placed back in to the housing? I'm stumped by this one, and so are the guys at the shop here.

[Evan]

Thanks for the swift response.

It seems though that this lock may have been incorrectly reassembled. I tried using a 7 pin 0-bitted key with the 7th space cut at #1 depth. It does the same thing as the 6 pin 0-bitted key.

The plug will rotate almost a full 180 degrees in either direction, but with both the 7 and 6 pin key, it gets stopped by something at abou 170 degrees unless the key is extracted partially.

Could it be that the internals for this IC were not all reassembled properly before the core was placed back in to the housing? I'm stumped by this one, and so are the guys at the shop here.

@Doctor Hexagon:

The Yale LFIC core is a normal pin tumbler mechanism as far as the pin chambers as concerned... There are no extra sleeves or anything like that in this type of core...

All of the magic happens at the back of the core -- where the extra long key reaches.,. It is similar to a Schlage LFIC where the removal of the core just requires a key which can turn in the lock while also lifting the little piece at the rear of the core which engages the lug or retention device and allows it to be retracted as the key is turned...

If your 6 pin Yale LFIC 0 bitted core doesn't allow the core retention piece to retract when you are using a 7 pin 0 bitted key with a #1 cut on the 7th tip position then the core is broken and the retention piece is somehow unable to engage...

Are you sure that the LFIC core is a 6 pin core and not a 7 pin core ? If you have any of the old hotel style keyblanks for this keyway try cutting a #1 cut on the very tip of a 7¾ or 7½ pin blank leaving the 7 pin chamber areas uncut... Otherwise the core is broken because the key rotates freely and someone took it apart and put it back together incorrectly...

How did you obtain this core ?
Has anyone ever tried to take it apart ?
Does this core have the spring cap over the pinning chambers or is it an older style which requires the plug to be removed to re-key it ?

~~ Evan

[Raymond]

I may have mis-read this but is the core still inside a housing? If it is out, simply remove the retainer and take the lock apart. Fit the control key while it is apart.

If it is still locked into a housing, try a long pick to raise the control pin at the back of the plug. Keep a lot of upward pressure to keep the control pin held in place. The same pick can be raised levelly and rotate the plug at the same time. Some times it is difficult to pull a core out of a housing because the 0 or 1 cut blank slips out of the plug and does not hold onto anything to pull the plug at the exact moment.

[Evan]

I may have mis-read this but is the core still inside a housing? If it is out, simply remove the retainer and take the lock apart. Fit the control key while it is apart.

If it is still locked into a housing, try a long pick to raise the control pin at the back of the plug. Keep a lot of upward pressure to keep the control pin held in place. The same pick can be raised levelly and rotate the plug at the same time. Some times it is difficult to pull a core out of a housing because the 0 or 1 cut blank slips out of the plug and does not hold onto anything to pull the plug at the exact moment.

@Raymond:

The OP reported that trying a 7-pin control key resulted in the key rotating farther around than it should have and also hinted that it may have been taken apart before...

~~ Evan

[DayZiro]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aXEPHJotzQ&t=8m10s
Here jimster586 demos a yale ic and shows the 7th pin mechanism we're discussing.

Also, could one potentially have a 6 pin key cut to pins 2,3,4,5,6, and 7 then file the shoulder down for the last cut? The keyway grooves not going into the head of the key may prevent this. Does the cut of the 7th pin matter? Will any cut make the key a control key?