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Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general questions here.
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by serial_sanctuary » Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:45 am
I got a bunch of Schlage locks off ebay to practice with. I bought a Southord lockpick set a while ago and I've been having some trouble. My tension wrench doesn't seem to fit very well, I think it might be too narrow or something. Do you guys have any recommendations of how to go about getting a wider tension wrench or should I try a different type or something?
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serial_sanctuary
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by gloves » Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:56 am
serial_sanctuary wrote:I got a bunch of Schlage locks off ebay to practice with. I bought a Southord lockpick set a while ago and I've been having some trouble. My tension wrench doesn't seem to fit very well, I think it might be too narrow or something. Do you guys have any recommendations of how to go about getting a wider tension wrench or should I try a different type or something?
Hello and welcome You may find useful to change placement of your tension wrench in the keyway. Some prefer to place it in the larger parts, while others place it on the top, just before the pins. Like this:  Also remember you can easily shape your own tension wrench from a sweeper bristle using only pliers and a vice. Cheers 
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gloves
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by serial_sanctuary » Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:47 am
Would I need a shorter tension wrench? I'm needing to replace my wiper blades on my car, so I might just turn some of that metal insert into a tension wrench.
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serial_sanctuary
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by Eyes_Only » Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:41 am
It would help if the tang that sits at the top of the keyway was a bit shorter. I make mines about 5 mm long.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by raimundo » Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:06 pm
tension wrenches
split, T&B topandbottom
TOK top of keyway
BOK bottom of keyway
Most common is bottom of keyway. this works best in most situations, however tensor blades are usually straight, while keyways have various shapes and this usually means the fit can be loose, or too loose.
bottom of keyway tensor blades can be modified in various ways, often they are cut to one or more steps of thickness so that a tensor can fit more than one size of keyway.
BOK tensor blades can also be bent in several ways, by putting a slight curve in the tensor blade, it behaves like a wider piece of metal, and the slight bend will also help it grip on the sides of the keyway. you push it in til it tightens and then use it being careful that it is not binding against the bottom of keyway cylinder wall.
by gripping the tensor blade in two pliers the metal can be slightly bent laterally, so that as it enters the keyway it has the effect of widening the footprint of the blade in the keyway,
Tensors can be twisted, so that the blade is similiar to the common twist on the tensor handle, as this is pushed into a complicated keyway it tightens against the keyway walls, care should be taken to see that it is not binding on the cylinder wall at the bottom of keyway This twist can in some cases lock into the curves of the keyway and give a good grip on the plug while avoiding the cylinder wall.
you will have a collection of tensors that fit various differences in keyway shape and size, one or more of these bent or twisted tensors can fit many more keyways than any common flat blade tensor.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by gibson » Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:21 am
you could make tensors from an old allen key, filed down to the width of the top of the keyway (or get a Peterson Prybar). Tension is probably the most important aspect of picking. Lots of times you can't pick a lock using a bottom of the keyway tensor, only to have it almost open itself by using top of the keyway. It's interesting to note that the Falle pickset has no less than 26 tensors in it, 16 of which are the ordinary type, but in various thicknesses. Sparrows has a novel approach in that they sell their tensors with the intention that the user modify them according to their preferences.
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by cdman » Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:35 pm
Definitely try switching to using the top of the key way. On the schlage that I have I am unable to pick using the bottom of the keyway, but can pick it using the top. Torsion wrenches placed on the bottom of (at least the particular schlage that I have) seem to dig into the walls of the cylinder.
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by Bladen » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:54 pm
Reading glasses with a metal frame from the dollar store make great tension wrenches. Most times you can make a double sided tension wrench from each side of the glasses. One skinny. One wide.
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by PherricOxide » Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:31 am
This is sort of a hackish way to do it, but sticking a paperclip or wire in the bottom of the keyhole below the tension wrench can help it not slip/rotate too. I've got a brinks high security padlock that the Southord wrench will rotate around inside because it's too thin, the paperclip trick works great.
Let us not look back in anger or forward in fear, but around in awareness. — James Thurber
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by serial_sanctuary » Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:17 am
Thanks for all the replies. I actually just replaced the wiper blades on my car so I'm going to cannibalize the spring steel from it and try to form that into a tension wrench. I'll probably just try to make a shorter wrench to use at the top of the keyway.
I'll let you guys know how to goes.
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by unjust » Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:06 am
few other ideas that i haven't seen as much as i'd have expected.
in very gross description, take a key for the keyway you're working on and cut off everything above the first warding in the keyway (from the "bottom") drill a small hole in the remainign bit of the bow, and use a wire in that hole to tension the lock.
take a wire coat hanger. cut a straight chunk ~6" long. place it on a hard metal surface, and flatten one side with a hammer for ~1" bend it w.in the flattened chunk using flat jawed pliers, and then file the tool portion to the dimensions you want. (ideally you flatten it with a nice flat jawed bench vise, so you have parallel faces to make the filing easier, but it's not crucial.
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