FAQ: The Fine Art of Impressioning (in a nutshell)

[raimundo]

I forgot to mention, on some locks, the angle of the the tip of the blank is the position of the furthest pin away from the bow of the key, every time you put the blank in the lock, the pins cam up this slope, and all five of them drag accross this position, the place has to be watched carefully, only accept really good marks on this place. If using a #4 cut file, you can give two steady straight strokes across a good mark, rather than just one. if a mark is particularily deep, you can also cut twice on that place. if a mark is not certain, a very light cut to prepare the surface for remarking is acceptable.


{edited by Varjeal per request}

[vector40]

Varjeal --

Maybe I'm missing something (everything I know about impressioning I learned in your post ), but wouldn't following your method result in straight vertical cuts, which would... hell, probably stick the key in the lock, or not even let you insert it?

At what point and by what means do you angle off the ridge's you've cut to allow for smooth insertion and withdrawal?

[David_Parker]

Vector: Are you referring to creating the the 'v' shaped notches into the keyblank?

Because if so, the pippin file should take care of this. Its sort of a file that, when looked straight down apon, resembles a sort of tear drop. And from the side, its mildly straight at the base, through the shaft, slowly tapering towards the tip, away from the handle.

I'm sure someone can post a picture of one, or Varjeal can answer your question in more depth.



-Dave.

[Varjeal]

David is exactly right in his description of the pippin file, and it is the prime reason why I do not recommend flat or triangle files for the use of impressioning.

The shape of the pippin file or tapered round or half-round file, will lend itself to forming a slight U shape to the cut when you make it and eliminate MOST of the sharp cuts that would occur otherwise.

However, there are some occaisons where you may end up with a very deep cut next to an extreme shallow or "no cut" that may require you to angle the ramp of the cut in order to allow easy insertion removal of the key. It is VITAL that you be very careful when doing this and insure that your spacing is correct, and that you file ONLY on the ramp between cuts and not into the actual spacing. This can be difficult to do with some where the spacing is tight, but normally ramps are not an issue in these cases.

Before anyone jumps on me, yes, flat or triange files can be used to impression, but should ONLY be used for wafer locks, and in cases of wider spacing it will then become necessary to adjust the ramps between cuts frequently to avoid problems.

As far as "when" is a good time, you can make small adjustments after the spacing has been determined (when you've got at least a couple strokes to identify each space, so near the beginning if necessary.)

Hope that helps.

[vector40]

Sure, thanks a ton. Great guide, by the way.

Question for the smiths around: When do you most find yourself doing impressioning? When someone has a door they haven't opened in ages and lost the key to? Expensive padlocks with absent keys? Cracking a lock that you can't or don't want to pick?

Would impressioning be your first choice for keying a lock even if you had the access to disassemble and decode it?

[Varjeal]

Impressioning, for myself anyways, is a first choice for:

1. Simple automotive locks where codes are not accessible or locks have been changed.

2. For simple pin/wafer locks where security isn't an issue or disassembly/decoding takes too long.

3. Padlocks that are not practically rekeyable.

If I had easy access to disassemble or decode then impressioning would definitely be second choice...'course it's all a time factor really.

[vector40]

1. Simple automotive locks where codes are not accessible or locks have been changed.

murrrp?

Didn't you say that impressioning can damage auto wafer locks, and shouldn't be done? Or is that only the case for some of them?

[Varjeal]

Not all auto's use wafers.

And some that do use very thin/fragile wafers, but not all. I won't say more than that about automotive.

[vector40]

Heh... understood. Thanks again, Varj; good posts and good information.

[wraith]

Nice write up!

I did notice one thing you caution against, but, in the US, most vehicles are pretty easy to impresion. They take practice and a certain feel, as with anything, practice, practice, practice. Some times it's the only way to get into a vehicle. Trunks especially - but usually you can take an impression of the glove box, and it's good.

Wraith

[Varjeal]

I don't know what area of the US you reside in, but I've NEVER found GM sidebar locks easy to impression, and there's millions of 'em on the road.

Also, not all glove boxes contain locks, and usually the ones that do only contain 3 or so of the bitting needed to complete a fully working key.

Not trying to bash what you said, but just clarifying a bit.

[wraith]

I don't know what area of the US you reside in, but I've NEVER found GM sidebar locks easy to impression, and there's millions of 'em on the road.

Also, not all glove boxes contain locks, and usually the ones that do only contain 3 or so of the bitting needed to complete a fully working key.

Not trying to bash what you said, but just clarifying a bit.

I may have been lucky then. I've done a few dozen, as that was the way I was taught to open a trunk. Hey, no bash taken, I learn something new every day!

Trey

[Varjeal]

Feel free to share some tips with the sidebar locks then, 'cause I could sure use 'em. I know that it's not impossible to impression them, but I do find it somewhat difficult, especially as many of these locks are pretty gummed up with grease and debris, and as you well know flushing a lock with lubricant only delays the impressioning process further.

[hung82000]

One more thing, if you're not aware, a .pdf copy of the ilco blank catalog can be found on their website:

http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key_systems/pd ... s_info.asp

[maxxed]

I think that you should thy impressioning without cleaning first, then if the cylinder is not marking try using brake cleaner to remove debris and remaining lube from the lock. I agree that the knife edge is helpfull on wafer locks especially sidebar locks ( watch the preasure on these ), but pins can mark better if you make the cuts at a slight angle as this seems to bind the pin better.
The GM glove box contains 4 of the 6 wafers used in the secondary cylinder and there is never more than .050 between adjacent cuts. This means if the cut (third position) is deep you can cut down the second position to within .050 of the third cut saving some work. I usually progess these locks it is simpler