2-in-1 Picks

[acl]

Paul saw this on the other site recently,lovely job.Brought a replacement the other day but ill see if i can get someone to repair it sometime.Think imust be getting too heavy handed.
Was this key from a church door lock? How long did it take you?Sorry if youve explained this already.
Regards Andy

[Rockford]

Fine set of wards on that lock - any pics of the actual lock ?.

Rockford.....

[oldlock]

The lock itself was nothing much to look at. From a private house (probably a very big house!) in Ireland. I probably spent around 15 hours on that key - maybe more - you tend to loose track of time on projects like that !!

Still, it just goes to show just how strong a silver soldered joint can be.

Paul

[quicklocks]

[acl]

I was wondering if youd get anything like that down under.
Andy

[oldlock]

I was wondering if youd get anything like that down under.
Andy

There is work of this kind, but nothing this big - but then until I did this one I had never seen a key this big !

Thanks for the comments guys, I am going to widen all the door frames in the house tomorrow so I can get my head though them .....

Paul

[Peaky]

Yes it looks allright, remember though a too close a fitting joint will be very weak as the silver solder wont flow over the entire surface, silver solder is very very strong when used properly,

When i said you can not get a strong joint with normal solder i was refering to lead solder.

Andy,
I was given a 2in1 that had already been broken, i didnt have the bit so made one the same as the other one ( the lever lifter is just a peg butt soldered on the side of the tube, the bolt thrower is actually a peg that has the tube form as part of it, this then gets soldered on the end of the tube.

I had my camera nicked but a new one is on the way, when it comes i will take a photo and show you what i mean.

[oldlock]

Ahh the capiliary action of various grade & qualities of silver solder - there's a can of worms to open !!

Several points are critical : (IMO)

1 - The metal must be clean & degreased

2 - The flux must be fresh - by which I mean not dried out and remixed

3- Temperature - this is important, too hot is just as bad as not hot enough.

4 - Close fitting - yes as peaky pointed out there must be a gap - but not a big one, as silver solder is not polyfilla.

Practice is important, I have been using SS for around 12 years and I am still caught out from time to time.

Paul

[Rick-the-Pick]

It's a tricky business with the silver solder, it's different every time i use it!

That was a wonderful key, a little project like that can easily take over your life for a few hours!

Peak's, ever tried cutting an inch of the end off the 2 in 1's? put new ends on completely! It save a lot of flapping around trying to join the break!

[Peaky]

With respect Rick, i dont think you are understanding the process, wait until a pic is up but as a note i do not repair any break, indeed with not having the piece that broke off it would be slightly hard to stick it back on,

I make a new part that replaces the original lifter and is a lot stronger as well.

Paul,
I also have been doing it for around 15 years and still gets me as well, i think as you have said the most important thing is to make sure the pieces are spotless and i usually grit blast my bits first if applicable.
weve all tried remixing flux once its dry but it never works as good does it.
Capilary action, love it, until you turn your work over and find a little balloon where the solder has run round and set on the bottom

[toomush2drink]

Ok you guys have got me interested in giving this silver soldering thing a go so i have a butane solder iron on the way but not sure what type of solder and flux i need. Also any other tips would be helpful before i head off into the dark world of soldering.

[Rick-the-Pick]

That's it!
Way to go buddy! You'll soon be making your own 2 in 1's!

Peaky, would you work out a price for the ss and flux. You might end up supplying us all here!

[oldlock]

Ok you guys have got me interested in giving this silver soldering thing a go so i have a butane solder iron on the way but not sure what type of solder and flux i need. Also any other tips would be helpful before i head off into the dark world of soldering.

You cannot silver solder with a butane soldering iron, they are for cord free soft soldering of electrical connections only.

You need a butane / propane blow torch - like plumbers use and a variety of nozzles are dead handy depending on the size of the piece you are working on. As far as the flux is concerned I use two types, std Borax and Johnson Matthey ' Tenacity ' these are both powders that you mix (a little bit at a time) to a paste.

As for solders don't be tempted to use the stuff with the flux attached, get the clean rod, try and get as high a silver content as you can, either silver-flo or easy-flo from johnson matthey. Try your local welding suppliers for prices etc.

Have fun.

Paul

[Peaky]

I have asked my local supplier to quote me for a job lot of SS so will get back to you all,

I tend to use easyflow solder,

As a quick search i found these,

http://www.cupalloys.com
http://www.collegeengineering.co.uk
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk

All of these are reasonable prices, the chronos site will do bundles for a good price and it may be worth a group buy on the pack of 50,

I say i pay less than you because you are paying for 12" lengths, i get mine in 400-500mm lengths for the same price if not a little cheaper on a bulk buy.[/url]

[toomush2drink]

There is also a load of solder on ebay but as i didnt know what to get i left it.