I think I see what you're getting at chucklz. I have a drawing (pardon my poor MS paint skills) which will help explain what I'm about to say, provided I can find a place to upload it. The top portion of the diagram is a (very) rough schematic of one of the wheels. each of the nine sections corresponds with one of the numbers visible from the outside (yes, I know there is one more spot for a dot, but this is just a rough layout) Part L is the latching mechanism, which is put through the wheels while they are all unlocked. After the latch is inserted, the wheels are then turned, and the entire device is locked. Pulling on the cord will cause the latch to bind on the wheels, preventing it from moving.
Now with the "picking." With the diagram (which incidently, is a picture of what I believe is happening inside the lock that I have) wheel two is the first one to bind. I have determined this because it provides me with the most friction when I try to turn the wheel when I am pulling on the cord. The lighter parts between the wedges of the numbered sections in the diagram represent areas which stick out from the rest of the wheel, which is presumaby there to throw off the feel of the would be picker, as it increases the force which is needed to get the wheel to turn. This is probably what is keeping me from opening the lock. My next bet is to turn the wheel to the number I want to test out, while pulling on the cord, mind you, and rock it back and forth, between the areas which stick out. If I can feel no friction when rocking it back and forth, chances are that is the right number. Repeat the process for the remaining 3 numbers (which in accordance with my diagram would be (3, 4, and then 1 respectively) and bam, the lock is open. Does that sound like I'm on the right track? Thanks again.