Bumping Damage on SFIC

[Raymond]

F Y I
Here is an example of what I strongly suspect was a bumping attempt. These two SFICs both have the plug retainer bent outward and on one the bottom half of the lip on the plug is broken completely off. Both worked OK with the control key when pulled back a bit. I admit it is possible that someone just pushed too hard but I would bet money it was a bumping attempt.

[Raymond]

[rakemaster]

Interesting. What about the caps? Were they pushed up at all?

[Safety0ff]

Could you post a picture of the face of the locks as well? (Some people could then compare it to the pictures in LSS+ .)

[Eyes_Only]

Do these things even bump?

[Mutzy]

It would be an attempt at bumping, but due to the 2 shear lines, they'd be pretty lucky to get it to align at one shear line imho.

[keysman]

It would be an attempt at bumping, but due to the 2 shear lines, they'd be pretty lucky to get it to align at one shear line imho.

Do these things even bump?

Yes, they are bump-able.

I have very good luck bumping SFIC to the control shereline.. I am guessing about 50% of the time I hit the control.

[Raymond]

Q1. On these two cores, none of the caps were disturbed. I would not expect them to be pushed off. Nothing was out of the ordinary on the face of either core.

Q2. Although I have never tried to bump a SFIC because of this exact problem, I expect that they are indeed bumpable. I would theorize that they might be more likely to turn at the control shear because the top driver would be the most likely pin to separate.

[bumber]

@keysman, when you would bump them either to control or otherwise did you use a different bump strength compaired to a 'normal' lock (what do you call a non-ICore lock, fixed?) and is there a difference between how hard you hit to get a control bump and working bump...or maby even(i dont know how you would know) a master bump? <would/could bumping smash the little master pins?

[keysman]

Q1. On these two cores, none of the caps were disturbed. I would not expect them to be pushed off. Nothing was out of the ordinary on the face of either core.

I would not expect any marks on the face ... the Best syle sfic is TIP stopped.. the part that is missing in the photos is what actually stops the key VS the face of the lock.

@keysman, when you would bump them either to control or otherwise did you use a different bump strength compaired to a 'normal' lock (what do you call a non-ICore lock, fixed?) and is there a difference between how hard you hit to get a control bump and working bump...or maby even(i dont know how you would know) a master bump? <would/could bumping smash the little master pins?

No ,I attribute my sucess to LUCK , sorry no special tecknique except .. I do usually lube the lock 1st ( I like wd40 )

It would take a LOT of force to damage/ bend/ turn a master pin sideways.. I have never had that happen .. but your mileage may vary.

[WOT]

Here are a bunch of ICORE photos.

I've never successfully bumped a 7-pin BEST lock, even with slightly filed down tip to permit minimal movement method. keysman, how are your bump keys cut? factory spec #9, or different?

[WOT]

Raymond, what keyway/brand are those cores? The small round section in the dead center looks unfamiliar to me.

[keysman]

Here are a bunch of ICORE photos.

I've never successfully bumped a 7-pin BEST lock, even with slightly filed down tip to permit minimal movement method. keysman, how are your bump keys cut? factory spec #9, or different?

I have a punch.. yes, I use a #9 cut .. I do use the pull-back method ( pull out 1 cut and bump) perhaps that makes some differance?

[WOT]

Here are a bunch of ICORE photos.

I've never successfully bumped a 7-pin BEST lock, even with slightly filed down tip to permit minimal movement method. keysman, how are your bump keys cut? factory spec #9, or different?

I have a punch.. yes, I use a #9 cut .. I do use the pull-back method ( pull out 1 cut and bump) perhaps that makes some differance?

OK... I just successfully bumped a green construction core, but it's only got 3 stacks (1,2 and 5). Both the control and operating shears are single keyed and I got it twice, both getting the operating line.

BTW, I used an OEM Falcon key blank and I just realized that the nose is longer on them than Best blanks, causing the first steeple to be much larger and I had to file it make it more consistent with the rest.

I used your technique and it took like 3 tries heh

[WOT]

The tip end is 1/100" too shallow. I attribute that to my key machine being a piece.