Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.
by Demonithese » 8 Mar 2006 0:47
zeke79 wrote:The thing you must keep in mind is the way the SO and many of this style tubular picks work. You are in a sense impressioning the lock so you must insert the pick fully into the lock and keep the pick straight at all times. Then rotate the pick clockwise and release rotating force. Slightly withdraw the pick, apply clockwise rotating force and push the pick back into the lock. Repeat this process withdrawing the pick a small amount more each time and eventually the lock will open. You must be carefull and insert the pick straight at all times or you will mess up the whole process and have to start over again. Once you have picked the lock, only rotate a few degrees so you are sitting between pin chambers. At this point you need to fully extend the feelers and reset them on a flat surface. Then you can insert the pick back into the lock and you will have the exact code at that point and you are free to fully open the lock. I hope that helps out a bit.
it says not to do it pick by pick.
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Demonithese
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by zeke79 » 8 Mar 2006 0:54
Demonithese wrote:zeke79 wrote:The thing you must keep in mind is the way the SO and many of this style tubular picks work. You are in a sense impressioning the lock so you must insert the pick fully into the lock and keep the pick straight at all times. Then rotate the pick clockwise and release rotating force. Slightly withdraw the pick, apply clockwise rotating force and push the pick back into the lock. Repeat this process withdrawing the pick a small amount more each time and eventually the lock will open. You must be carefull and insert the pick straight at all times or you will mess up the whole process and have to start over again. Once you have picked the lock, only rotate a few degrees so you are sitting between pin chambers. At this point you need to fully extend the feelers and reset them on a flat surface. Then you can insert the pick back into the lock and you will have the exact code at that point and you are free to fully open the lock. I hope that helps out a bit.
it says not to do it pick by pick.
Reread my post as that is not the procedure I described.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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zeke79
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by Demonithese » 8 Mar 2006 1:05
i tried to understand it.. but i got confused.
So: step by step:
1) lightly press tension wrench in direction of opening
2) insert Southord Pickgun parallel to pins
3) Snap gun, then rotate pick clockwise and release Tension force?
then i get confused.
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Demonithese
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by zeke79 » 8 Mar 2006 1:07
Are you talking about a snap gun, or a tubular pick?
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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zeke79
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by Demonithese » 8 Mar 2006 1:11
zeke79 wrote:Are you talking about a snap gun, or a tubular pick?
ahh crap.. im sorry. ya, i can't get my snap gun to work correctly.
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Demonithese
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by zeke79 » 8 Mar 2006 1:17
Hahaha, well that makes more sense now anyway  !
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by The_Catz » 8 Mar 2006 10:34
wow... thread train de-railed.
My SO has two o-rings in the tension, but I ordered from JLUSA, which claim they ship straight from SO. Weird. Maybe they just decided to add a second. The first is a little bigger than the second, my tensions great now that the collar screw is a thumb.
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by frollard » 16 May 2006 1:41
okay, I just bought the 7 and 8 pin tubular SO picks...
I havent modded them at all yet, but after 'working' the feelers back and forth for half an hour, they're still pretty tight, even with the knurled collar removed.
I'm gonna invest in some emery cloth to smooth out any burrs.
As for the brass shaft, to manually smooth it, what do you guys reccomend?
As well, for oiling it, what oil?
AS WELL (I'll finish soon) - someone mentioned replacing the rubber with neoprene rings, are they uuber good?
I also have a very sticky pin 4 - can you elaborate on the changing the thumbscrew? As I understand, you put one screw on each side so it doesnt deform the circle as much.
The meaning of life, the universe and everything is 42.
Inflation however, may have changed this. ... edit: yup, its definately 43 now
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by chrisjc33 » 16 May 2006 7:58
Is it just me or is this the norm now?
Southord and HPC selling tools like this,when you get it it should work. not stripping it down sanding it, putting new screws in it, bending the fealers back into shape.
Is this the norm?
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by frollard » 16 May 2006 19:34
it seems kinda crap for a 150 dollar set of tools.
The meaning of life, the universe and everything is 42.
Inflation however, may have changed this. ... edit: yup, its definately 43 now
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frollard
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by Nasydave » 17 May 2006 11:57
Emery cloth or a light sandpaper works for the shaft, also. I wrap it around the end of a matchbook to get into the slots. I try and avoid too much oil on my tool, as it makes the aceII's hard. (sounds pornographic!) Just a light coating and then wiped off usually works fine.
And yes, it's a shame we have to whack at our tools before they work properly, but I suppose that's the price we pay for mass production.
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by frollard » 17 May 2006 19:05
okay, so I popped it apart, cleaned it out, smoothed EVERYTHING, and now not 1, but 2 feelers are really really really tight, and all the feelers are 'almost too tight' with no tension on the knurled...tightener ring...thing.
not a tonne of oil, but definately enough, silicone spray.
Not to broken record, but even with the rubber rings out, the aluminum collar when screwed into place seems to do the binding...
The meaning of life, the universe and everything is 42.
Inflation however, may have changed this. ... edit: yup, its definately 43 now
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frollard
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by Nasydave » 19 May 2006 1:45
Did you try taking out the setscrew? I install a 6-32 thumbscrew which allows me to tighen the collar independent of any connection with the shaft. Even though that installed cap screw is supposed to do that.
Other than that, sanding the sides of the feelers, and some smoothing of the feeler channels is about all I can recommend.
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by Bump » 20 May 2006 10:22
chrisjc33 wrote:Is it just me or is this the norm now? Southord and HPC selling tools like this,when you get it it should work. not stripping it down sanding it, putting new screws in it, bending the fealers back into shape. Is this the norm?
£99 and I still cant get it to work for me either! Stripped it, polished it, put it back together and followed the instructions to the last full stop! We've got to be crazy to accept a poor standard of workmanship at this price! Anybody know anyone at SO who cares a C*!p. 
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Bump
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by chrisjc33 » 20 May 2006 15:15
Bump wrote:chrisjc33 wrote:Is it just me or is this the norm now? Southord and HPC selling tools like this,when you get it it should work. not stripping it down sanding it, putting new screws in it, bending the fealers back into shape. Is this the norm?
£99 and I still cant get it to work for me either! Stripped it, polished it, put it back together and followed the instructions to the last full stop! We've got to be crazy to accept a poor standard of workmanship at this price! Anybody know anyone at SO who cares a C*!p. 
yes and people still put up with these crappy made tools,i would not mind if it was £5-£10 but these tools are getting on for £100 and the Materials probably cost £5 tops
ring them up and demand a full refund
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