Electric Pick from Scratch

[reactive]

I was going to try the electric screwdriver conversion but it looked like too much effort

The motor used is from a Dick Smith brand electric screwdriver (3.6v). I didn't have a charged battery back ready so I used the 5v rail of an old AT computer power supply.

The yellowish board it all screws onto is fibreglass (similar to what that use for printed circuit boards). I used a small bolt as the pivot point, two nuts are used to space it off the fibreglass board and one on the other side to fasten it.

The elastic bands don't really do much... there just there to keep the pick from flopping around. The cam is a brass gear filed down on one side. At the moment the pick is cutting a groove into the gear... I'll be able to sort that out tomorrow in the MK2 version

To pick the lock I used it upside down (well... to what I intended up to be) . Pressing it was against the pins made the pick rest on my ghetto version of a cam. The elastic bands don't provide enough for force to keep the pick on the cam on its own.

Sofar I've picked some yum cha lock which I can manually pick in a 5 seconds. That pretty much popped instantly.
I've also popped a Lockwood (Aussie) 110/30 which I have manually pickeda few time ... but it was a fluke. This opened after a second or two.

If you want anymore details or pics just yell out. I'm waiting for google to verify my video, but if anyone else can point me to free hosting it would be appreciated.

Yay for my first post

[Jaakko]

Very nice work indeed! I have been scrouging my leftover parts from other projects and I had a similar idea to build, except that you made it before me

I found an old 12VDC motor which is from an aircompressor. It is quite big, so I have to build a current-limiting circuit for it to reduce its power. Maybe LM317T and a resistor will be fine. From what I measured, it consumes about 10 Amperes of current with 12VDC, which converts to 120W motor. It has the same kind of gear already mounted like yours, and I had the same idea to file it down on one side.

But, I got a better idea, that would make it harder to wear. I was thinking to cast an unbalanced epoxy blob to that gear and small amount of epoxy to the pick, so they are softer than metal to metal.

[reactive]

I found an old 12VDC motor which is from an aircompressor. It is quite big, so I have to build a current-limiting circuit for it to reduce its power. Maybe LM317T and a resistor will be fine. From what I measured, it consumes about 10 Amperes of current with 12VDC, which converts to 120W motor. It has the same kind of gear already mounted like yours, and I had the same idea to file it down on one side.

LM317's are limited to 1.5 amps. There a linear regulator aswell so they'll produce alot of heat. National Semiconductor make simple switching regulators aswell which go upto 5 amps and make alot less heat.

Was the 10 amps you measured with no load? If its drawing 10 amps with no load you may want to look at another motor

But, I got a better idea, that would make it harder to wear. I was thinking to cast an unbalanced epoxy blob to that gear and small amount of epoxy to the pick, so they are softer than metal to metal.

I had a similar idea aswell. Great minds think alike
My idea was to break out the MAPP gas torch and silver solder the brass gear to fill in the gaps and file it smooth. Also, I was going to make a new pick with the section touching the gear bent outwards so it contacts the entire gear. This should spread the wear out evenly along the gear as opposed to concentrating it on one spot like it is atm. It should also help with the amount of noise it makes.
It still needs the obligatory lube comment

Since its my first posts, I better introduce myself. I'm from Perth Australia and currently studying electronics and communications engineering. I've done a fair bit of chemistry and physics (and maths ). I'm only starting my second year but I can handle pic microcontrollers very well (no thanks to university ). Hopefully I can get into come magnetic/digital lock picking and once I'm done with this, if I get time, I'll make a multipick style controller to complement my new e-pick.

Cheers
-Matt

[Bahrg]

Nice job. I like this idea as I have ALOT of junk lying around More than anything tho before I make an electric pick I want to try to make a pickgun. So far I am only in the stage of figuring how I want to do this, and materials to use.

[Jaakko]

LM317's are limited to 1.5 amps. There a linear regulator aswell so they'll produce alot of heat. National Semiconductor make simple switching regulators aswell which go upto 5 amps and make alot less heat.

I've studied electronics for over 10 years now, so I think I know that My point was, that connecting a suitable resistor between ADJ and OUT, I'm able to decrease the current that goes to motor. I think it will run on 1A just fine.

Was the 10 amps you measured with no load? If its drawing 10 amps with no load you may want to look at another motor

That was when using it where it was in the first place, as a compressor. No load condition is like 2-3A.

I had a similar idea aswell. Great minds think alike

That is true Welcome to the board!

[420_toker]

Nice job. I like this idea as I have ALOT of junk lying around More than anything tho before I make an electric pick I want to try to make a pickgun. So far I am only in the stage of figuring how I want to do this, and materials to use.

Same here, I have so much junk its not even funny. I've got lots of small motors, I just dont have a clue how to tell how many volts each motor takes . Any ideas, anyone?

[Jaakko]

Same here, I have so much junk its not even funny. I've got lots of small motors, I just dont have a clue how to tell how many volts each motor takes . Any ideas, anyone?

If it is not AC-type motor, then take your multimeter and find out its resistance. That should give you some tip of how much voltage to apply.

I have always tested with an ATX power supply. First I connect an unknown little motor to +3.3V, then 5V and finally to 12V and consider from there...

[reactive]

I've studied electronics for over 10 years now, so I think I know that Smile My point was, that connecting a suitable resistor between ADJ and OUT, I'm able to decrease the current that goes to motor. I think it will run on 1A just fine.

Sorry, didn't realise

I tried silver soldering the gear... not a great idea.
I ran out of flux so I couldn't get the silver solder to stick and then the gear melted That motor is now pretty stuffed.

I found another motor with a larger brass gear but it lacks power. I used my soldering iron to cover the gear in regular electronics solder. The Pb/Sn solder is a bit soft, bit it made the gear alot smoother and wore the solder and not the gear. I could pick the yumcha lock the it didn't have the power @ 5v to open the lockwood. I tried at 12v but tripped the supply. I have access to a big 30 amp supply at work so I'll give that a go on the w/e.

[420_toker]

Hmmmm, so I take it this project ist any good to me without a power supply? I guess I'll just stick to regular picks

[What]

Hmmmm, so I take it this project ist any good to me without a power supply? I guess I'll just stick to regular picks

im sure you could find a 9volt or at least some AA's

[420_toker]

im sure you could find a 9volt or at least some AA's

But would a motor that could run off a 9v be strong or powerfull enough?

[reactive]

But would a motor that could run off a 9v be strong or powerfull enough?

A 9v battery probably wouldn't be able to source enough current to get enough power. If you have a low voltage (3.6v) motor you could get away with maybe 4 AA batteries.

[420_toker]

[/quote]
A 9v battery probably wouldn't be able to source enough current to get enough power. If you have a low voltage (3.6v) motor you could get away with maybe 4 AA batteries.[/quote]

I really dont have any way to tell if its a 3.6v motor or. Would connecting a couple of 9v together to run a little bigger motor be unsafe?

[420_toker]

Sorry about the quote

[reactive]

I really dont have any way to tell if its a 3.6v motor or. Would connecting a couple of 9v together to run a little bigger motor be unsafe?

Low voltage motors generally have thicker and fewer turn of wire around the middle of the motor (armature) than a 12v motor. Less windings lowers there resistance and hence makes them run off a small voltage.

Two 9v batteries in parallel might work. It really depends on your motor and the current its drawing.