European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.
by wwoodman » 25 Aug 2010 13:09
Hi All,
Apologies if this is in the wrong place etc it's my first post. I have now got pretty competent at picking pin tumbler locks so I'm thinking of having a bash at UK mortice (leaver) locks. I have some second-hand locks which I have dismantled so I have a fair idea of how they work and how to defeat them however I have some questions about gear before I set out which I couldn't find answered anywhere on the site:
Having looked at some tools on the web I have come across 2-in-1 tools described as for non-curtain locks and other similar tools designed for curtain locks.
I understand the difference between the two locks but cannot see (from pictures on the web - I haven't actually bought one) why a 2-in-1 pick could not be used to manipulate the curtain on a lock. Am I missing something? It seems to me the end wire on the 2-in-1 would turn the curtain the same way the key would? If this is the case what is the advantage of tools specifically designed for curtain locks? I have both types available so it would be nice to have a pick which can defeat both types.
Also is there any advantage in the gauge size of the pick? I have seen 5 and 7 as common values offered. I'm working on the theory that the smaller gauge would be applicable for any size of leaver over 5 gauge - I'm assuming here that the gauge is the size of the wire manipulator? I guess 7 would be stronger but I don't anticipate needing a lot of force as the locks I plan to experiment with are loose - not fitted in doors etc and well maintained so they should resist too much.
Basically these tools are quite pricey and I don't want to shell out a lot of money on something which I either end up replacing for a better tool or turns out not to be effective on the locks I have available to play with.
Thanks for any help and tips!
Will
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wwoodman
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by mhole » 25 Aug 2010 13:38
A 2 in 1 pick works by applying tension with 1 'leg' and manipulating levers with the second 'leg'. For this to work the two legs have to move independantly.
The curtain prevents the two legs from moving independanly, so you can turn the curtain with the pick, but manipulation is impossible.
In addition, on a non curtained lock, one of the cuts on the key is full height, and throws the bolt. On a curtained lock all the cuts correspond to levers, so you need a way of applying tension to the curtain without occupying a space which is needed to lift a lever.
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mhole
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by mhole » 25 Aug 2010 13:51
Also, re: gauge.
This is the bore of the keyhole - ie: the central hole in the curtain. You need the correct guage for the lock you are picking, so for a Chubb 3g114 or 114E, or a union 2134 or an Era Fortress you need a 5 gauge. For a securefast, era pro- fit etc, you need a 7 gauge. The number is based on American standard wire gauge, but has nothing to do with the thickness of the pick wire.
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mhole
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by wwoodman » 26 Aug 2010 7:19
Ok, now I understand! I think my best way forward from here is to try and decide which type of lock I want to have a crack at first. I will have a look in the garage and see what I have most of in terms of locks to practice on.
I was hoping to find something suitable for mortice locks in general but it looks like I need to get specific tools to match the type of lock.
This could get expensive!
Thanks for the help Mhole.
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wwoodman
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by rphillips52 » 30 May 2012 14:58
This could get expensive!
Yes indeed. Not just a cheap couple of tension tools, rake, curve and half-diamond, to cover all the locks you could meet. And then you need to identify the lock you seek to open, to know the best tools and methods for opening. Not so easy when it's locked in a door. As well as several sizes of keyhole guage, locks have different keyhole heights, so the 2-in-1's need to be of different lengths. Ones short enough to go into some locks will be too short for operating others. Also, some picks are handed so both hands are needed. The original Hobbs design is defeated by the barrel, and the curtain defeats lodging a separate tension tool in the bottom of the keyhole. Hence the curtain pick designed to defeat the barrel-and-curtain. Then, many locks with barrel-and-curtain, and others, have further pick-resisting features, such as false-notches, to make picking more difficult. BS3621 locks are not so easy to open as a quikfit tubular lock, and are physically robust also.
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rphillips52
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