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by jfw » 7 Apr 2013 18:09
So i've decided to try out impressioning. I'm currently working on an SC1 lock. I have yet to succeed, however I do enjoy doing it and futzing with the toys I use. I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation on a good desk clamp vise? I am currently using a Panasync vacuum vise which is great for travel and picking, but not good at all with impression work. It would have to have at least a 5 1/2 inch clamp to fit from the top of my desk to under the drawer. Even tho I haven't been able to make a key yet, I am getting better with my filing work when it comes to a nice even surface and clear filing marks. I am using a #4 swiss grobet. Jos was kind enough to show me some pictures of identifying marks. Here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dvanzuijlekom/sets/72157632264037316/detail/ I also have Ollie's book. I still have trouble identifying the correct marks tho. This lock is just very difficult for me to get accurate readings, I'm not sure why.. maybe over used (I don't think should matter) and panavise isn't strong enough? If anyone has anymore pictures of various markings please post them on this thread. I would like to attend a seminar or lock group but there isn't much going on in my area (Dallas Fort Worth). Anyways thanks for reading, please share your thoughts.
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jfw
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by jfw » 7 Apr 2013 20:25
Also I will post Jos video here as it is an excellent source of information regarding marks and everything else. Unfortunately I only find marks similar to this in the beginning, then they become VERY hard to see/mark. http://www.securitytube.net/video/3212
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jfw
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by GWiens2001 » 7 Apr 2013 22:16
Are you keeping the file level and only cutting in one direction? At helps to make a smooth surface that shows marks better.
It can also help to use magnification to see the marks easier.
Another trick I use is when the first mark in any position shows, draw a line straight down at each mark. That way, when you file, you can keep the cuts straight. If the cuts start to drift, it can make the marks show up on the slope. Then they are easily confused for the normal drag marks.
Are your marks just disappearing? Or are they continuing until you end up with a bump key? If you cut too deep, the marks will show up again as the key pin starts binding, then they will continue.
Do you have a key for the lock you are using? If so, you can try using that for understanding what you are seeing, and knowing if you are starting to go too deep.
Another tip is to look carefully at the key blank after filing, so see if there is anything you might mistake for an impressioning mark.
Especially important if the lock is older is to wipe off any oil or dirt from the lock before reading the impressioning marks, as dark oil or dirt can be mistaken for marks. This was a real problem for me when I purchased a bunch of old mortise locks from eBay, so that is experience talking. Still comparatively new with impressioning, and there are others here who have a lot more experience. Hopefully they will chime in.
If you have other specific questions, let me know!
Good luck!
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Altashot » 7 Apr 2013 22:52
To impression well, the lock must be mounted/clamped on something solid. Something that wont move or wiggle up and down. I use a 4' bench wise bolted to a heavy work bench. I don't want all the force or energy I use to go to moving the lock, I only want the key to move. The marks can be very faint and very hard to see. Oft times all you see is a slight difference in the glare of the light on the blank...Practice is a must...You can try widening the wards on the key so that it fits the cylinder loosely, it'll give you more room to bind and lift. Still, make sure the whole lock doesn't wiggle. Just the key. I use 4' Vise Grips to hold the blank securely. Bind, lift, check. Tilt the key in the light, look for irregularities, dimples, or just a tiny polished spot. I find that electrical light is better than day light to see this. When I do it outside, I turn my back to the sun and look at the blank in my shadow. Nothing can "purple" your sight like a glint of the sun. As a noob, way back when, I was taught with wafer cam locks at first, then wafer auto,then cheap padlocks, then Master, Weiser, Schlage, lever locks, high security... -Schlage isn't the easiest place to start. Good luck, and report.
M.
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Altashot
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by GWiens2001 » 7 Apr 2013 23:17
It can still be easier than a factory pinned Kwikset. They use round ended pins, which make impressioning harder because they leave less marks.
You could try repining with some lab pins, which have more of a point. They will impression easier.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by jfw » 8 Apr 2013 11:05
Thanks for the tips GWiens, altashot. Yes I need to update my vise, and I do not have a key for this lock. If anyone has a SC1 5 pin cut key they can donate to me give me a PM i'll gladly take it off your hands. I have broken a few blanks as well. Thanks for your thoughts.
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jfw
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by jfw » 8 Apr 2013 11:07
Oh and yes, the marks seem to disappear after awhile, and I have ended up with a bump key once so far..  I get really pissed off having to "reset" "vacuum" my vise every time. Great vise tho for travel and picking purposes.
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jfw
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by Luissen » 8 Apr 2013 16:26
Impressioning is something that requires more patience than I have most of the time. I'm interested, and a lot here reminds me of my own frustrations
If it works, it ain't wrong!  -GWiens2001
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