NOOB Needing some help

[Erdnaseuk]

Hey all

I fell it is probably best to post in the section of the forum. I am a noob to lockpicking although have a fair bit of theory work behind me. I was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers for some issues that Im having
First of all I am using a basic set of southord picks that often and did come with the "Easy Pickings" booklet. I am practising at the moment using a yale type rim lock with the standard wards on the keyway entry cylinder.

the lock has come with a 5 key pins, 2 of which are the same size (sorry no depth measuring tools). At the moment I am just practising getting used to the feeling of binded and non binded pins and getting used to moving the pick in the small space.

My first question is that when using one of the shortest pins or the next size up, with just one stack in 3/4/5 pin column. it is impossible to make the pin hit the sheer line UNLESS you move the pick up the keyway entry and sit it next to the highest ward. Is there a way around this - the pick will not go any higher and if you have to move the pick upto the highest ward surely this will hinder the picking process (would overset the longest pins as they would be pushed past the sheer line if they had been previously set or were first in the binding order).
I have shined a torch through the back of this lock while inbvestigating how high the pick will move - it looks about 2mm off from hitting the sheer line.
Has just occured to me - I may have to buy a pick with a longer hook

My second question is - When using the one of the shortest pins and driver pin combinations (only pin in the chamber at the time), when tension is being applied the pin appears to "overbind" and is effectively stuck. If I apply tension in the opposite direction it act normally with no problem. I assume that this would happen if the lock was fully pinned also as this in thoery would be the last binding pin (due to the large tolerance). If my assumption is correct would the only way around this in the real world be to pick the lock the wrong way and then use a plug spinner?
An obsevation that I made while looking at this is that when locked the driver pin and the key pin do not make contact when looking through the keyway (a gap less than 1MM). would this be affecting the binding of the pin?

I need to get around this issues as at the moment its the onyl equipment that I have to practise on
Thanks for the help guys

[easy-e]

the lock has come with a 5 key pins, 2 of which are the same size (sorry no depth measuring tools). At the moment I am just practising getting used to the feeling of binded and non binded pins and getting used to moving the pick in the small space.

The pin that is binding shouldn't be stuck, but it shouldn't be easy to move. If all the the pins feel really spring, you might have to try using more tension. Once you find which pin get stuck first, lighten up on the tension until it starts to move. You should hear a click when it sets, then go back to heavier tension to find the next binding pin.

My first question is that when using one of the shortest pins or the next size up, with just one stack in 3/4/5 pin column. it is impossible to make the pin hit the sheer line UNLESS you move the pick up the keyway entry and sit it next to the highest ward. Is there a way around this - the pick will not go any higher and if you have to move the pick upto the highest ward surely this will hinder the picking process (would overset the longest pins as they would be pushed past the sheer line if they had been previously set or were first in the binding order).
I have shined a torch through the back of this lock while inbvestigating how high the pick will move - it looks about 2mm off from hitting the sheer line.
Has just occured to me - I may have to buy a pick with a longer hook

You either need a longer hook, or to use TOK tension so you have more room to work. I bought a Peterson DCAP hook for this reason but sometimes I wish I had a longer hook, not just a skinnier shank.

My second question is - When using the one of the shortest pins and driver pin combinations (only pin in the chamber at the time), when tension is being applied the pin appears to "overbind" and is effectively stuck. If I apply tension in the opposite direction it act normally with no problem. I assume that this would happen if the lock was fully pinned also as this in thoery would be the last binding pin (due to the large tolerance). If my assumption is correct would the only way around this in the real world be to pick the lock the wrong way and then use a plug spinner?
An obsevation that I made while looking at this is that when locked the driver pin and the key pin do not make contact when looking through the keyway (a gap less than 1MM). would this be affecting the binding of the pin?

That sounds like you have an issue with your cylinder. Is there a burr that might be keeping the driver pin from coming down all the way? Are you using standard pins?

[GWiens2001]

Do not use both the shortest key pin and the shortest driver pin. Both pins can be pushed into the plug, leaving only the spring to block the shear line. That can get ugly, especially if you force the plug to turn.

Both of the pins fitting into the plug likely explains the very solid feel when you try to pick them.

Gordon

[Erdnaseuk]

thanks for the replies

after some more investigation I have observed that this happens using both key pins of the same size with any combination of the driver pins this "overbinding" effect occur using clockwise tension - but only when only pin stack is being used. If you use two or three pin stacks and pick in with clockwise tension it is fine. There are no burs in the chamber, they are standard driver pins and if using the shortest key pin with any of the three standard pins no combination it is not short enough to all fall into the chamber to allow the spring to enter and become damaged.
When I intially stated there seems to be a small less than 1mm gap between the shortest key pin and driver pins - I should have said this occurs at rest.
I definatly need a longer hook/slimline pick. I do want a better tension tool suited to these locks but at the moment I think my use of the tension tool is good and not effecting any pins etc when used. also that it allows nearly fulls space of the plug for my pick within the chamber
I think that claifys the questions / advice

now onto the new one
I had a limited choive when I bought a new practice lock (I am impatient). This lock athough not a name brand that I can remeber has a few pick resistant features. It came with two spool pins.
When looking from the front of the keyway the fourth chamber isnt the same as the others it is partially blocked. longer pins do not sit in this chamber fully and prevent the plug from turning at all. Has anyone else seen this? I think I may need a slimer pick to tackle this chamber. Although I am not fully confident using a slimer pick would take away the need to move the pick up the keyway navigating the wards.
(once I have picked this lock with the rear three chambers stacked instead of the first three and got a slimmer pick I will update this post if this chamber is unique)