Problem with cam?

[ftft20182018]

I have just replaced the euro cylinder in my door: the original was a Yale, and the new cylinder is one I purchased from Amazon. Both euro cylinders are 35/35, and measure exactly the same.
On installing the new cylinder, when the door is open and I raise the handle on the multi point locking mechanism, the key turns left and right perfectly: however, when the door is shut and the handle is raised, locking and unlocking the door becomes a little stiff. Now, it does work, it is just a little stiff and my youngest son cannot even unlock the door.
The old euro cylinder was fine, and I did not have a problem. I then tried a new Yale Platinum I have just purchased for lock picking, and surprisingly, when installed, the lock is very smooth and easy to lock and unlock.
Is this a problem with the cam on this euro cylinder that is so hard to lock and unlock? I looked at the cam on the Yale Platinum and it is very smooth, but the cam on this particular euro cylinder that I am having trouble with is a lot more firm, could this be the reason the key is so hard to turn? Do you need to lubricate a cam?
This problem lock is brand new, and I have just looked at the engravings and it reads: TL.

Anybody know the answer?

[Raymond]

That complaint comes around and we hear it very often. Take a look at your door hinges and where the bolts hit the strike plates. one or more of the bolts is probably dragging on the strike.

But I am still confused why it happens only with that one lock. Check measurements of both lock cams with a micrometer to determine if one is too large and needs a little filing.

[ftft20182018]

thanks for reply. I own a Smith and Locke Euro cylinder also, and that does not have any problem in the same door, so It looks as though the cam on this problem Euro cylinder is too big and will need filing. I will check the size measurements with the tool you specified, and will file the cam down; however, I am not sure what tool I would need to use to file it down. I am just training from Youtube as a professional locksmith, so getting to know the trade slowly.

Another issue here in the UK is Mortice locks. There are three ways to open them. The manual way with a curtained Mortice pick, and adding overlifters on some models vulnerable to this method, the other method is drilling, but the measurements seem to be way off from different sources according to Locksmiths on Youtube, and as a beginner you certainly do not want to be drilling 13 holes in a customers 600 dollar new timber door. The last option is pin and cam decoders, and standard decoders, but these literally are almost 4k in price for all 13.

What is the most common method in the USA for opening these types of locks?

I have already mastered opening Euros cylinders and more advanced Euro cylinders like the Yale PLATINUM, or Magnum I think its called in the US with the dimple pins and sliders. So I have conquered the Euros, but now onto the Mortice, and these mortice locks seem to be a locksmith's nightmare in the UK.

Is it acceptable for your first year as a locksmith to just turn down lockouts that involve Mortice Locks?

[GWiens2001]

I would rather turn down a job that I am unqualified to perform than risk being liable for damages to expensive doors and hardware.

It is one thing if you feel you have a reasonable chance of professionally complete a job. Otherwise, I would choose to decline the job, and buy practice doors/mortise locks so you can inprove your skills to acceptable levels.

Gordon