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Chubb 114BS 5 lever mortise locks

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

Postby 1st solution locksmiths » 25 Apr 2006 17:31

Deadlocks are only as good as the door their fitted too, and the fitting of the lock in the first place.

I Refused to fit a deadlock to a door as the door was past rotten and would of added no security. One push (not even hard) and it would of gave way. Not bad though i got the job to replace the door as well.

People don't tend to look at the hanging jam side either were more than most have quater inch screws. Not alot of force needed.
I always use 3/4 inch and hinge protectors whether it be outside or inside opening as added protection.

People wonder why the door drops after being fitted after short time
probably got 1/4 inch screws.
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1st solution locksmiths
 
Posts: 105
Joined: 9 Feb 2005 13:52
Location: west midlands

Postby NKT » 26 Apr 2006 5:09

Regarding Tattoo Guy's post, yes, the "Size 9 pick" is common, but a little 3 lever Legge compared to a BS Chubb? The Chubb has twice the bolt length, and is far, far less likely to explode before the door does.

I saw a 3 lever lock that had been forced, the door was almost perfect, but the three lever lock had exploded under the impact, the bolt rear end came through the side of the door with the case side, and left a big hole in it. A BS lock wouldn't have had that happen, and the burglar probably would have given up. Either that, or the door would have failed, making a lot more noise, and certainly taking more time and effort.

I practised picking the 114 for about two weeks, already being pretty good with a CB pick, and eventually got most of the way there. Once I got it down, I was taking about 15 to 30 minutes to get it opened. Compare this to a BS ERA that would take under a minute on a good day, and under 5 on a bad day, or a 3 lever that takes under a minute.

I still can't touch the 110, not that I have tried recently! I have to try the (ERA) Fortress, too. Playing for ten minutes at Telford got me not very far, even after I realised the pick was broken!

As regards screws, I use branded screws for everything, and the longer the better. Nothing winds me up more than a cheap screw that simply fails. Twisting off the heads is a pain, or having them simply fall off when you put the driver into them... obviously someone saved 5p a hundred on them. I find SPAX are really good, they don't need a lot of force to drive them, the heads are good, the twist is fast and the hole you need to drill is non-fussy, it's just for perfect control, rather than to stop the wood splitting. I've taken to adding a security screw or two to a lot of things that I think might get "repaired", too.
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NKT
 
Posts: 1273
Joined: 13 Feb 2005 16:35
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