European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.
by alun456 » 8 Jan 2004 11:55
What is the art behind this sort of lock? Looking to expand my skills, as i can get into most pin tumblers, but the mechanics of bypassing a mortice still eludes me. Any ideas on information sources? Im tight with cash, and dont want to buy a book, so internet sites prefered. THANKS!!!! Al.
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alun456
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by CitySpider » 8 Jan 2004 12:19
alun456 wrote:What is the art behind this sort of lock? Looking to expand my skills, as i can get into most pin tumblers, but the mechanics of bypassing a mortice still eludes me. Any ideas on information sources? Im tight with cash, and dont want to buy a book, so internet sites prefered. THANKS!!!! Al.
Hey, Al. Nice to meet you.
You sure you know what a mortice is? Pin tumbler and mortice aren't exclusive terms.
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CitySpider
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by alun456 » 8 Jan 2004 12:41
ok, viewtopic.php?t=308 shows picture of a sashlock with a deadbolt underneath. I meant this type of lock, sorry for being ambiguous.
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by alun456 » 8 Jan 2004 12:43
Oh, and by the way, the linked message doesnt give me any info. It refers to using wires? how? does anyone have any info on TECHNIQUES? or videos?
Thanks for yet another swift reply city spider and lockpick 101.!
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alun456
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by alun456 » 8 Jan 2004 12:44
And techniques and illustration of two ended picks would be appriciated, god im demanding!!!!!
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by CitySpider » 8 Jan 2004 17:10
Sorry, lever locks are out of my range of expertise. We don't run into a lot of them on this side of the pond. (as in, in my life, I've seen one).
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by macaba » 8 Jan 2004 17:29
This picture shows a basic lever lock and how you pick it-

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by ^Kovu^ » 12 Jan 2004 9:05
They are a bit of a nightmare if you don't have the correct tensioning tool, but once you have aquired something appropreate, it is all too easy. Either the levels "bite" when they catch on the locking guide (13) or they fall down again (well spring down). You can apply fair more pressue on the torque device, and the whole process is far less skilled. On top of which if you see a level lock key, you can easier memorise it. Move have 5 or 7 levels, and each level is a set height, usually 1 to 6. If you look at a key, you can see the discreet levels far easier than on a cylinder lock, as they are no slops/angles to easy the key in and out. Coding a key into a 5 or 7 digit number allows you to either cut one at a later date, or pick it far far quicker.
The one show in the top link however is actually an old style 2 lever lock. To these there are only 12 combinations, and most people carry one of each, filed down on both sides to a very thin key to allow it to work in any shape keyway.
3 lever are less common now, and most insurance companies required a 5 level mortice lock as a standard in addition to any cylinder pin nightlatchs.
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by CitySpider » 12 Jan 2004 10:17
^Kovu^ wrote:The one show in the top link however is actually an old style 2 lever lock. To these there are only 12 combinations
If there's six positions for each lever, wouldn't that be thirty six combinations, not twelve?
This is probably a very basic question; like I've said elsewhere, I don't really know lever locks.
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CitySpider
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by ^Kovu^ » 12 Jan 2004 12:09
The 2 lever locks are much more simplistic than any of the other level mortice locks we have in the UK (and Europe in my experience). They are only produced in 12 standard keys, which are even numbered. They were originally used on interior doors only, and were never really for security as such. Very common in older house on every single room. Occasionaly you still see them on the back door to a properties, but it's almost unheard of, not to have it backed up by a blot, chain or other secondry device, and even then it's advisable to change it!
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