The Keymatic IQ+ included the driver device itself, the europrofile mounting bracket, one keyfob with attachment chain and two set of screws for mounting. Batteries for keyfob and device were also included. Manual is well written but I actually only needed it for the setup process, the installation itself is pretty straightforward.
Regading the quality of the device I'd say it is OK. The casing of the driver is plastic, but it feels solid and has no wobbly parts or misfitting edges. The battery cover should be levered off with a small screwdriver or a key, as it sits rather tight. I slightly dislike the keyfob, I think it could be a tad bit smaller, but that is not the main issue. I dislike the hollow feel to it, and the hollow sounds that go along with it when it's clunking on the rest of my keyring. Maybe the Abus device feels a bit more solid, but I am not too sure about that. I will look into this further and see if I can maybe replace it with some other fob that utilises the KEELOQ system. It would be ultimately cool to have a integrated car/door fob. Leave home, press button, lock door, open car and vice versa when returning home. But that certainly has drawbacks...
ELV suggests the cylinder to stand out 10mm on the inside, and the mounting bracket is exactly that deep. However, my calinder is sticking out merely 6mm and mounting the device was no problem. I'd even think you could get away with just 3-4mm, these would just be aligning the bracket properly, for added stability there is a set of two screws included that enable you to secure the bracket to the door itself. Those are wooden screws. In my case, the holes for these screws are still over the handle plate, so one could find differently threaded screws in the same diameter, put a small drill hole into the shield and secure the screws either by threading that hole or by countering with a nut if handle plate design allows this. One thing that should be checked is if the key (the round head part that is usually gripped with the fingers) is dimensioned in a way that still allows the engine to grab and turn the key properly without the rounding getting in the way. If it does it should be a quick job on a file, hacksaw or dremel to shape the key accordingly.
After installation you put in the batteries and use the manual to go through a 4 step initialization. First you set the direction for locking/unlocking (1). After that you set how far the device has to rotate to achieve full locking/unlocking position(2 and 3). The last step is to define the "release time". After that you setup the device to learn the first fob, the master fob. That's just pushing one button on device and one on the fob, set.
The device itself has a small little display that aids in the installation process. In operation it displays the state of the lock with a little symbol and also display the last access made. This is done by showing which unit was used to initiate the last operation (1..9, as there are 9 fobs max). Learned fobs can be removed, additional fobs added in very short time. The changing of learned fobs will ALWAYS require the first learned fob, the master fob. In case of loss or damage of that it is required to unscrew the device from the mounting bracket and push a recessed reset button in the housing to remove the fob data. This is basically "default to factory" as the rotating setup has to be repeated after that.
The fob has three options, lock, unlock and release. Lock and unlock will do just that, the release will unlock and turn the key even a bit further to pull the latch into the lock body and therefore automagically let the door pop open. Ons ome doors a short latch retraction might not do the trick of having the door open so you can optionally instruct the device to keep the latch retracted for full 2.5 seconds. Even if your door does not swing ajar by that time, it is still long enough to tap the door with your foot if you are coming home loaded with grocery bags. There is also a small LED on the fob. The buttons on the fob have to be pressed down for about a sec before the driver gets into action, this is a good safety measure against accidental operation when putting the fob into your pocket.
Operation of the lock from the inside can be done by either pushing one of the keys on the device to lock or unlock the door. To save battery lifetime the lock can also be operated by the wheel.
Further options on this device are operation by an outside mounted keypad (this will not have to be wired, upon key entry it will just send a foblike signal), a bell that sounds when the device is operated (what is this good for? alerting an unfaithful wife to hide her lover in the wardrobe?), a LED set (display operation, will have to be drilled through the door or adhesively mounted inside on glass doors and an external power supply.
It should be stressed though, that this device DOES NOT ENHANCE security by itself. It is merely convenience. But considering that I am really lazy when it comes to locking the door it is an enhancement of security to me. I am not yet fully through with finding out if this thing adds security holes. But I consider KEELOQ rather secure, i do not think an EVVA 3KS will allow thumbturning wires to manipulate the inner side. The only thing would be drilling through the wood of the door and then turning the wheel on the device. I will figure something out for that I guess.
I have to admit that I am really happy with my purchase. There is sufficient force (2.5nm if the specs are correct) to the drive and it has no problem retracting the latch which is rather sturdy on my door. The full rotation from locked to popping the door open is about 8 seconds, that not a world record but certainly a deal that had to be made between battery lifetime and efficiency. I will look into diff keyfob system and maybe replacing mine for a model that feels a bit more sturdy. Or I might get a 2nd one and try to migrate the electronics from one case to another. Once I find some more time, I will unmount the device and try to find out if one these can properly drive a Abus Panzerriegel as well. I think it will. And maybe I will add a nice high-intensity blue LED to the outside of the door...
Contents of the kit
Business side of driving device
Bottom of device with LED/power supply (optional stuff) connectors
Mounting clamp alone...
...and mounted to cylinder
Device mounted and ready to roll...
Closeup of keyfob
Video of the stuff in action
Excuse the poor quality on some of the pics. The delivery guys got me out of bed and I had no proper nicotine fix when taking the pics...