Cylinder removal tool

[Eyes_Only]

I have an up coming gig where I'm being asked to re-key a couple of mortise locks on a business front type door. What I'm wondering is do you really need a cylinder removal tool like this one, http://www.hawleylocksupply.com/Merchan ... y_Code=A1S in order to be able to thread out the lock from the door or can you use something like an offset screwdriver to remove the cylinder?

[lostlink]

I have one that I use once and awhile. A lot depends on what kind of trim ring/s are on the mortise housing. I have also used a large pair of channel locks, but you will have to use caution as not to chew up th housing. I'll always try my best to remove it without a tool first....good grip with a leather glove on hand does wonders.

Since most of my work is on SFIC my most favorite removal tool is the KSP KS609............http://www.aloa.bz/resourcelib/pdf/KSP-01.pdf

[raimundo]

No, once you have removed the retaining screw that prevents the cylinder from turning, you should be able to put a key or blank into it and just use that as a handle to unscrew it,
2 exceptions,
Its corroded and old and fused to the threads, or it was installed by a simple mind who just overtightens every screw hes ever cross threaded.

If the esthetics of tool marks on the cylinder is not a problem, you can use a small pipe wrench.

[2octops]

raimundo posted the easiest way, just use the key (back it out a little bit so the plug does not turn) or use a blank key.

If after you loosen the set screw and it is really tight, you can also loosen the lock mounting screws a few turns to help with cylinder removal. Sometimes when people install these locks, they do not have the holes for the cylinders in just the right spot. Once the cylinder is in place and the lock is tightened down, it will cause the cylinder to press against the side of the hole and bind. If you still have trouble loosening the cylinder, try loosening the cylinder on the other side of the door a turn or two to relieve the pressure.

Watch out for using pliers or a wrench on the cylinder. Usually that will cause damage to the face cap of the cylinder.

[Chucklz]

What some people have found to be a very good solution are the rubber "strap wrenches" sold at many hardware/discount stores. You wrap a bit of flat rubber around the cylinder, and use the handle as leverage, and there you go, removed cylinder.

[Eyes_Only]

I like the rubber strap idea. Thanks everyone. If the job goes through I'll make sure to post the results of it.

[Mark A]

I also use the strap wrenches, and find they work fine and will even remove the most stubborn cylinder.

Mark

[Eyes_Only]

Umm....what if the lock has a collar around it? Would that complicate the matter?

[raimundo]

a spinning collar will not allow you to grip the cylinder if its made right, but you can still remove the faceplate on the edge of the door, back out the set screw that you will see under that faceplate, and then use a keyblank to turn the cylinder if its not crossthreaded and burned in.

[Eyes_Only]

Ok, thank you. I'll give that a go.

[HeadHunterCEO]

No, once you have removed the retaining screw that prevents the cylinder from turning, you should be able to put a key or blank into it and just use that as a handle to unscrew it,
2 exceptions,
Its corroded and old and fused to the threads, or it was installed by a simple mind who just overtightens every screw hes ever cross threaded.

If the esthetics of tool marks on the cylinder is not a problem, you can use a small pipe wrench.

or the #10s that hold the AR into the door are causing the cylinder to bind within the prep. loosen them up before you reach for the vice grips if you are having a hard time. save the $40 you would spend on that tool for a spare cylinder just in case

[Eyes_Only]

Well this is just a small gig where I'm probably just going to re-pin the front door lock to match the rear door. If anything seems jammed or I encounter a major setback I'm just gonna drop the job and recommend the guy to call a pro. He employs my younger brother and he's one of my job references as well so no point on doing anything that could cause serious problems.

[mojomojo]

If you have the AR deadbolt then it should be a breeze....

2octops basically told you all the problems you can encounter......

the cylinder removal is just for clylinders that have been forced or can unscrew after doing what 2octops told you in the thread but then again if thats the problem you can grab a pressure plier or if it has a collar just screw in a screw in between the cylinder and rim of the collar and that should stop it from spining. Use a keyblank or the original key to unscrew the cylinder after you loosened up the set screws....

remember when installing the cylinder back start turning it to the left slowly just to sit in the cylinder correctly then start to turn it to the right in order to prvent any crossthreading and as you screw in almost all the way once its at 6 o'clock start testing is that way you wont "over or underscrew it"