This is the old Locksmith business info area and will be broken down to fill in the new sections below.
by lockstar5000 » 20 Mar 2013 21:33
Not sure if this is the right forum for this, but couldn't find a better spot. I am wondering what hole saws you guys prefer for drilling doors for deadbolts and knobs. I just got a Lenox 2-1/8 w/arbor for installing a deadbolt. It went through the steel skin door like butter. So sharp, it put my Morse holesaws to shame. I was a bit worried using a cordless (battery concerns) with the steel skinned door, but no problem at all. The thing was so sharp it went through in like 5 seconds. So, what hole saws do you guys use for doors?
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lockstar5000
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by cledry » 21 Mar 2013 18:20
lockstar5000 wrote:Not sure if this is the right forum for this, but couldn't find a better spot. I am wondering what hole saws you guys prefer for drilling doors for deadbolts and knobs. I just got a Lenox 2-1/8 w/arbor for installing a deadbolt. It went through the steel skin door like butter. So sharp, it put my Morse holesaws to shame. I was a bit worried using a cordless (battery concerns) with the steel skinned door, but no problem at all. The thing was so sharp it went through in like 5 seconds. So, what hole saws do you guys use for doors?
I've generally used Morse or Milwaukee.
Jim
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cledry
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by 2octops » 21 Mar 2013 19:37
Morse.
After your first solid wood door that arbor will be permanently attached to that hole saw.
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by Sinifar » 22 Mar 2013 7:57
Blue Mole on a Milwaukee arbor. Make sure you get the two drive pins thru the hole saw or it will be tightly jammed on the arbor. At which time you will need a vise and a large pair or water pump pliers to get the thing off.
AS far as using a Dewalt 18 volt drill - mine has worked for ages without problems. It gets hot at times, but works.
IF you want drilling power, try A Bosch Hammer drill, in the standard mode. It is 110 volt, but it has enough torque to blast thru anything. Just hang on to it tightly or you will really sprain your wrist.
Sinifar
The early bird may get the worm, but it is the second mouse which gets the cheese! The only easy day was yesterday. Celebrating my 50th year in the trade!
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by Buggs41 » 22 Mar 2013 8:06
To prevent the hole saw from becoming stuck to the arbor, wrap a small piece of #12 bare copper wire around the arbor shaft. We do the same when we core drill holes in concrete. It works.
Instead of throwing a hole saw out when dull, have it re-sharpened. It will be a little more aggressive than a new one, but it will do a few more holes for you.
My fleet of NR2003 online race cars.
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by lockstar5000 » 24 Mar 2013 18:01
2octops wrote:Morse.
After your first solid wood door that arbor will be permanently attached to that hole saw.
Sorry, after using the Lenox, the morse is at the bottom of the tool bucket. The morse is ok for wood, but the Lenox went through a solid wood door with steel skin in about 1/3 of the time as the morse
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lockstar5000
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by lockstar5000 » 24 Mar 2013 18:03
Also, as for arbor being stuck to saw, with the Lenox arbor there is a rubber bushing that prevents this. With the morse I had to use a vise and pipe wrench to separate the 2
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lockstar5000
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by dll932 » 31 Mar 2013 22:55
You can sharpen holesaws yourself, using a Dremel and 409 or 420 emery wheel.
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