Locksmith Van Inverters

[skeleton_keys]

Hi all! I've tried researching this on my own, and can't find any really clear answers. I just bought a 2002 Dodge Ram Van 2500 for my new locksmith business, and want to wire an inverter into it to power my key machines, and probably power tools. Another locksmith advised me to get a 1500w model, so I thought I'd ask around here for recommendations, if you've tried and really liked one. I also can't figure out how these things are installed...there seem to be many different ways to install them, and all the forums and sites I read seem conflicting or vague. Can someone please give a clear description of how it works? Thanks!

[maintenanceguy]

We have installed inverters on several of our utility body trucks (not locksmith related). We have Genco 2500Watt inverters and have had no problems with them.

We've the inverters installed in one of the tool box cabinets and we ran wires in EMT to a GFCI receptacle on the back of the truck under a weather tight cover with a small padlock on the weather tight cover.

Some things to consider: Watts into the inverter = Watts out of the inverter. Because you're using power at 120V and only powering the inverter from the truck's battery/alternator at 12V, the truck will need to deliver 10X the amperage you're using.

So...if you're using all 2500 Watts at 120V, you're drawing 21amps at 120V. (W/V=A) If you're drawing 2500W, the truck needs to deliver the same 2500 Watts to the inverter but at only 12V. Because the Voltage is lower, the amperage will need to be higher. The input amperage is going to be 210Amps. (2500W/12V=210A)

You will rarely draw this much power but make sure your battery and alternator can handle the input amperage.

Also, make sure you shut down the inverter when not in use. We've left them on overnight and had dead batteries in the morning. And these things put out a lot of heat and need good airflow around them.

[maintenanceguy]

Here's how we installed them:

[list=]Bolt inverter into toolbox.
Bolt a fuse holder from the local automotive shop to the side of the engine compartment next to the battery.
Select the proper 12V wire size (in our case we used 1/0)
Crimp ring terminals onto both ends of an 18" (maybe closer to 12") piece of 1/0 wire. You'll need a special crimper for terminals this large.
bolt one end of this 18" "pigtail" to the +battery terminal and the other to one terminal of the fuse holder.
make a longer piece of your 1/0 cable with ring terminals to run from the fuse to the +12V terminal of the inverter.
Spend a couple of frustrating hours trying to find a place to run your wires through the vehicle to the inverter.
Make up a very short pigtail with ring terminals on each end.
Bolt this very short pigtail from the -12V terminal of the inverter to a hole drilled in the body or frame. The entire truck is the negative return path so you only need to run a positive wire. Choose your bolt location carefully. you'll have 200+A running through your truck body and you want to make sure that there is a good path for the electric to take back to the battery.
[/list]

We then went an extra step and ran a 120V circuit through the toolboxes to a receptical on the outside of the truck but most people just plug into the inverter for power.

[keysman]

You will rarely draw this much power but make sure your battery and alternator can handle the input amperage.

.

Good post. also consider start up "surge" can be quite a bit higher than normal run requirments

[Varjeal]

Good points all, but a couple things were missing/assumed.

#1. you need to figure out how much "stuff" you are going to hook up to the thing. This is pretty important since if you plan on running your key machines, lights, power tools, and other things then you might want to consider going to a quiet generator.

#2. You will need to figure out if the alternator on your van is going to be able to keep up with the usage. If you plan on running a lot of stuff, you may want to consider running your inverter off of marine batteries and use a switching system to charge them.

In my particular case since I only use the inverter to run one key machine at a time and no lights or power tools, I can satisfactorily use and recommend a 2000 watt unit. I use heavy welding cable for connections since my inverter is mounted near the rear of my vehicle, and that is another consideration you will need to make in choosing the system best for you.

In addition I would also recommend purchasing a quality unit since some of the "unknown" brands cannot hold up to their stated usage. Also, make sure to check the advertising on the inverter and make sure the power listed is operating watts and not necessarily peak.

Another tip I just thought of was to try -not- to use extention cords from your inverter unless absolutely necessary due to power loss. The further away you want to mount your inverter from the battery, the thicker cable you want to use.

[thelockoutguys]

The best move i made was getting a PURE SINE WAVE inverter. More money but worth the cost and your machines will run like a champ.