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Unmovable pin in tubular lock

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Postby AtomSphere » 5 May 2006 3:46

They key inserts very well and very smooth.... Maybe i should follow your advices and get a new 7 pin tubular lock and try to figure it out 1st before i proceed to my firesafe. I just wana pick for the fun of figuring out the puzzle
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Postby AtomSphere » 5 May 2006 3:49

LockNewbie21 wrote:For a little bit more your can buy a clear one to see whats stumping you here. Good luck anyway buddy :D


Andy


clear ones? there is transparent tubular locks?
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 5 May 2006 4:07

You bet ya :P go to www.lockpickshop.com go to the specialty picks section with tubular lock picks and you will find two kinds of clear tubular locks a normal pinned one and an advanced one with spool pins i believe? if your intersted in tubular locks there great to learn on, plus like i said if the pin jams or wont move you can look in to see why and if you doing sumthin wrong correct it, with some practice you could open them no problen, its up to you to buy the pick i did it was more compulsive buy but i never use it excpet to practice single pin picking with it its okay check um out then cya buddy


Andy
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Postby AtomSphere » 6 May 2006 1:02

THanks a ton LockNewbie21! :)

By the way is my tubular lock any different? because to unlock mine i turned the key left and pull out the key but the videos i downloaded from this forum has a slightly different tubular lock and to open it you must turn it left then turn the key back to the position you started to remove the key.

i've only started picking locks about 2 weeks ago when i locked myself out of my room and was very impressed indeed when a locksmith can compromise the sense of security i had of a lock in 20seconds (it was 5am and i woke him up from his sleep so he is a bit drowsy.) I tried to move the bolt with a flexible plastic cooking ware without sucess (it worked on some doors though)
Now i can FEEL the lock and start to understand how much torque and when.
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 6 May 2006 1:31

Well that is true in some cases, its basically to help you to rember that the lock is unlocked and needs to be turned to be secured, but the pick has a small tube like piece of steel i am guessing? but you can remove the lock pick when its open or closed, also a litte tip theres a littel notchont he outside of the key, if you have two keys leave one normal and on e the second grind the littel bit on the outside off, i did this becuase sometimes i would pick my lock and it would jam before it was opened or i tilted the pick and the impression that i made got screwed, so take the key insert and reset. Good luck bud and not prob on the advise ask away anytime i will do my best good luck.



Andy
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Postby AtomSphere » 6 May 2006 2:31

thanks again LockNewbie21!


Cheers! :D
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 6 May 2006 14:27

No Prob bud :P


Andy
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Postby ufd538 » 15 May 2006 1:49

Let me try to explain this....you have seven pins.

You can remove the key in two different positions.

when it is locked, you are correct in that the pin is picked.

behind the bottom pins are top pins and springs.

the pins are all equal distance apart, except there is no pin at the 12 o'clock position, which means there is no top pin or spring, which means when you turn the key, whatever pin is over that spot is rigid.

Number the pins in the unlock position going counter clockwise 1-7 starting at slot on center post.

so lets say hypathetically you turn it 90 degrees clockwise to lock, the number 2 pin is now over the 12 o'clock position and ridgid. Or if you turn it 180 it would be the number 4 pin.
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 15 May 2006 3:51

OHHHH i see what your gettin at, i never thought of it but yea thats right, single pin picking w/o the pick, once your first rotation is complete and the pins reset there is only 6 pins to pick because the one is binded under the notch... i need to stop comin on here late at night half dead. :D



Andy
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"Frozen" pin...

Postby fjardeson » 27 May 2006 16:21

Some tubular locks have what is known as a "dead" pin. You might have that, since the pin in question looks like it's made out of steel, instead of brass like the movable pins. LSS confirms that "dead" pins are usually steel.

It is bascially only a ward and prevents use of unauthorized keys. If you're picking the lock, just ignore it. Good luck... just remember that you have to pick a tubular lock (degrees to open / 45) times. :wink:
--Fjardeson

I'll call your S&G 8500 and raise you a RKL-10!
fjardeson
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Postby assweasel » 14 Jun 2006 12:48

LOL
I agree with LockNewbie21 if it ain't broke don't mess with it.

A cheap source of tubular locks are from bike locks you can often get them at flea markets for the asking if they are missing a key.
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