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by mastermarc » 7 Jul 2006 11:08
wow thanks for bringing up that old picture. I'll have to give that a try, or maybe buy some of those tension wrenches if necessary....Certainly would explain why i couldn't pick it if my life depended on it.
Question is....Is this tension wrench the "key" to opening it, or is it still going to be insanely hard? I'm a moderately skilled locksmith, and an engineer, so i learn fast. But I guess I can only hope for the best without any real training.
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mastermarc
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by picksmith » 7 Jul 2006 19:15
It is not the "key to opening it." Truthfully if you pick it with a regular wrench you have a better chance of opening it.
I say that because you have a chance of picking any of the operating sheer lines, (many of those if it's master keyed and most are) or the control line when picking with a conventional wrench. I'd say about 20% of the time I accidentally pick the control line. (Which doesn't matter BTW you can still pull the core and open the lock that way.) So if you are just trying to pick the lock and get it open, use a regular wrench.
The finch tool is specifically going to put pressure on the control plug so it will greatly increase your chances of picking for core removal. Instead of picking multiple times to try and "accidentally" get the control line you are specifically putting turning pressure on the control lug.
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by mastermarc » 8 Jul 2006 0:41
well then the question is...
if i'm going to be around these enough, is it worth picking it each time reguarly to open it, or picking the control, decoding it, and making a control key.(or regular key as it may be)
which leads me to...
seems to me...control key has nothing to do with "master key" grandmaster key, etc...how does one go about figuring that out?
just trying to figure out what my options are for different courses of action.
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mastermarc
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by unlisted » 8 Jul 2006 1:41
All this info was provided to me by Varjeal. So, no credit goes to me at all..
Normally there is 3 different key "levels" with this type of lock. Sometimes less. Big systems will have 3 normally.
The technicial terms are as follows:
Change key, (sub user, does NOT allow removal of core, only operates some/one lock in a group)
Master Key, (unlocks all locks in that group, but does not allow removal or core)
Control Key (removes the core, does not unlock the actual lock)
If this is wrong, yell at me, and Varjeal.
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unlisted
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by picksmith » 10 Jul 2006 21:38
The best way to think of a control key in terms of function is as a top level master key. It will pull the core of any lock in the system, which will allow you to open it. Decoding is simple and it has been mentioned on here how to do it before.
As to what you should practice picking, it depends on what your goal is. If your a locksmith and think you will have to pick them to get people in just pick them like any other lock. If you think one day you will have a customer who will lose the control key that operates a bunch of locks, then you will want to practice picking the control line and decoding. (Also look into the Peterson drill jig for decoding and removal, if you are unable to pick them.)
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by mastermarc » 11 Jul 2006 20:45
if you pull the core...whats the best way to keep all the pins from comming out. Also, is it easier to figure out what the control key is, and then be able to open any lock by pulling the cylinder, and turning it with your finger, or is there a way to figure out what the master key is somehow by looking at 1 or more of the locks in the system.
All the locks im working with are on the same master system, but my cause for concern is when either we can't figure out which key goes in it...(we have a janitor's keyring type assortment of slave keys), the lock isn't cooperating even if we have the right key, or if we have to get into a room we don't have the key to, and nobody is available to open it. Or someone borrows one of the keys etc...
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by LockNewbie21 » 12 Jul 2006 7:24
Label all keys for locks, use silicon lube.
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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by picksmith » 16 Jul 2006 23:53
When you pull the core the pins won't fall out. They either have a a long cap across the top holding them in or caps for each cylinder. The control key is easier than the master key. It sounds like you will be maintaining this system. Have you thought about rekeying it so you will have accurate records, or is that not feasible due to size, prize, etc?
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picksmith
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by mastermarc » 17 Jul 2006 0:44
why wouldn't the pins fall out....if they had a cap on them, then the pins would be trapped and the cylinder would never lock.
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mastermarc
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by 15289577 » 17 Jul 2006 11:03
unlisted wrote:A few questions: I have used the search function, but alot of the links are down, or pictures are missing. I have also watched the TOOOL "bumping" video and understand it to a point. Can you sucessfully "bump" Best IC locks?
Back to the original question, yes, best brand IC cores can be bumped. I demonstrated for a number of people with a best padlock I have at the ALOA show this last week. I can put up some pics or a video of it if you would like.
Grudge wrote:Oh, and I forgot the 5th and most important reason: Lock Picking is a Babe Magnet
Chucklz wrote:I wish..... It would be nice to find a girl who appreciated the finer points of a 7 pin SFIC.
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