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by Spectre42 » 13 May 2004 20:11
ok, sorry for my delay in response...
1) I was using plenty of pressure after i had gotten the lock to turn... even broke out the ol' screwdriver...
2) I agree that it can be slimjimmed rather quickly, but my hobby is picking and thus, i prefer to pick it.
3) I have tried raking the lock (up, down, up, down) using the snake and wishbone, but it hardly even feels as if the wafers are moving at all (even without tension)
Once again, i'm sorry for the delay and thank you for all the response you guys have given
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by HeadHunterCEO » 15 May 2004 5:10
ghostdog wrote:HeadHunterCEO wrote:well if you are that hell bent on piicking it here is some help
its six wafers in the door 3 up and three down and the first on is down 2nd is up and so on
and the ignition is + 2 for a total of eight
I'm curious about this. I have 2 Fords. A 93 Thunderbird, and a 95 Explorer. I have a key that works both vehicles. I took the original keys and had a new one cut with one side for the car, the other for the truck. That would make me think that Ford locks only have pins or wafers on one side of the lock. This key I had made works the doors and ignition.
did you key those up yourself?
the 93 t bird does not have up/down wafers but the truck does.
preha[ps you lucked out and the cuts that count are similar enough on the other side to allow rotation
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by ghostdog » 15 May 2004 14:34
Naah, had it made at the locksmith shop, before I learned picking. I just took the two originals and told him to cut a new key with one of the two originals on either side. My Grandaddy was the one that told me about this. He used to work at a hardware store, and cut a lot of keys.
The two sides of the key are very different, I don't know, It works though.
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by HeadHunterCEO » 15 May 2004 14:43
ghostdog wrote:Naah, had it made at the locksmith shop, before I learned picking. I just took the two originals and told him to cut a new key with one of the two originals on either side. My Grandaddy was the one that told me about this. He used to work at a hardware store, and cut a lot of keys.
The two sides of the key are very different, I don't know, It works though.
basically if you can get a a key blank to go into two diff locks than you can key them up so they are alike or similar enough that it wouls turn when one side of the key was inserted.
now if they ain't keyed alike when you flip your key over it won't work
Doorologist
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by Varjeal » 15 May 2004 15:41
Having a single key operate two different vehicles isn't really a good idea. It's also considered unethical for a locksmith to accomodate you like that too.
*insert witty comment here*
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by Mad Mick » 15 May 2004 15:59
Let me get this right. You have a key which opens two differently bitted auto locks? Generally, automotive locks are usually double wafers, which utilise both the upper and lower parts of the key (that is why they are symmetrical).
E.g. pin 1 - top, pin 2 - bottom, pin 3 - top..............
For your key to work, you must have either single wafer/pin locks, or have gotten very lucky with your locks. I'm not saying I don't believe you, just looking for a little clarification.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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by Romstar » 15 May 2004 19:09
Can anyone else verify something for me?
Every 1980's K-Frame based Chrysler/Dodge vehicle I have ever seen used a single sided wafer lock. My own Daytona uses a single sided key for all locks.
I've made numerous double sided keys for Dodge owners. My Uncle had several Dodge Caravans, and every time he got a new one, he would bring me the keys for the two he currently had, and ask for a key to start each of them.
Maybe it was just pure luck that I never saw a double wafer lock in these vehicles. I only recently started dealing with anything automotive. Normally stayed with openings only.
Thanks,
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by Mad Mick » 15 May 2004 19:22
Since the pre-eighties, pretty much all of the automotive locks in the UK/Europe have been double wafers. Maybe the US/CAN see single wafers/pins as suitable, but in the vehicle-crime-capital of the world (UK), single wafers just don't cut it, hence the usage of DS wafers/laser cut keys and the like, combined with RE immobilisers and insurance approved alarms/mechanical anti-theft devices.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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by HeadHunterCEO » 15 May 2004 20:43
Mad Mick wrote:Let me get this right. You have a key which opens two differently bitted auto locks? Generally, automotive locks are usually double wafers, which utilise both the upper and lower parts of the key (that is why they are symmetrical).
E.g. pin 1 - top, pin 2 - bottom, pin 3 - top..............
For your key to work, you must have either single wafer/pin locks, or have gotten very lucky with your locks. I'm not saying I don't believe you, just looking for a little clarification.
it can be done man
if you got both ignitions in your hand you can key em up to work like this.
what about the doors? did you rekey them also?
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by skeleton_keys » 7 Jun 2004 18:45
I know there's a special tool you can buy for $15 designed just to open Ford Explorers. From the catalog pic it looks like it's just a specially angled flat piece of metal with a screwdriver-like handle, that you reach through a hole under the doorhandle and manipulate the linkage rod that way. Don't know exactly how it works, you can see it in the catalog at www.lockmasters.com. You're probably more interested in just learning to pick anyways.
(And yeesh, I'm starting to sound like a shill for Lockmasters. . .ugh. Still. . .beautiful stuff.)
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by jason » 9 Jun 2004 10:21
That's a bit like me and RB Medical
sledgehammers make excellent back up picks!
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