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by ARF-GEF » 7 Apr 2013 4:21
I think you are totally tight to use graphite in that environment!:) That's why I said Graphite is also better in dry sandy environments where WD-40 can accumulate dirt and become a sticky mass.
I did not think about the fact that WD 40 might evaporate real quick. As for the fact that you barely see rusting lock I think you are correct when you said it's because you live in the desert. If there's few rain and low air humidity rust gets a lot slimmer chance than here where it rains a fair amount. Here even originally brass coated springs can start rusting with time when left out unprotected. I guess it's just not really suitable for you specific needs  .
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by ARF-GEF » 7 Apr 2013 4:23
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you are totally tight
=totally right... 
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by dll932 » 7 Apr 2013 22:20
MrWizard wrote:Yes your right I should not generalize but only state my findings and they are as stated I am not a fan of WD-40. I should have said not brass but brass coated springs that are rust resistant. I am referring to locks on commercial or residential buildings and cars in most cases I have never seen rust in the lock cyld. I have only seen rust on a padlock and still never inside the cyld. But I live in the desert in Phoenix Arizona USA where it don't rain all the time. It is very dusty in the desert and if you use a wet lube inside the lock cyld you are begging for a problem. As for WD-40 it doesn't have the chemical makeup for use as an internal lubricant and doesn't last very long in that application here in the hot climate it drys up fast and leaves a gummy mess so I refuse to use it. I thought many would find the back story on WD-40 interesting it's not very well know it took a rocket scientist 40 tries to make it work. Richard
I generally advise people to use WD because it's easy to get and better than other things people have tried (like Pam, silicone spray and even Loctite!). Given the choice I prefer Tri-Flow. The secret ingredient in WD is fish oil, BTW.
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by MrWizard » 7 Apr 2013 23:40
Tri flow is a good product and recommend by Medeco. As for WD-40 Snopes says: http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.aspAs for the claim the "basic ingredient" in WD-40 is "fish oil," it's a common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40 spray include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition information included in the Material Safety Data Sheet aerosol indicates the product is primarily petroleum-based, with the main ingredient being solvent naptha, petroleum, medium aliphatic (also known as Stoddard Solvent): solvent naphtha petroleum, medium aliphatic, 60% petroleum base oil as paraffinic distillate, heavy, solvent-dewaxed (severe) 15% to 25% corrosion inhibitor unregulated, wetting agent unregulated, 1% to 10% fragrance unregulated, 0% to 1% carbon dioxide, 2% to 3% Wikipedia has this to say:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40Formulation: WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented, to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[3][6] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are: 51% Stoddard solvent 25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 15+% mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-% inert ingredients The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients: 60–80% heavy naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated 1–5% carbon dioxide It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40. So sorry no fish oil in this product. 
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by Luissen » 8 Apr 2013 16:52
dll932 wrote:I HATE graphite and never use it. I have seen locks so full of it the pins wouldn't move. If I find one like that I clean it with brake & electric motor cleaner then lube with Rem Oil, Tri-Flow or WD40.
Graphite was first used when locks had large sliding parts with lotsa clearance (bit and barrel key locks). Newer locks have too little clearance for it.
I continually come across wafer and lever padlocks that when tapped, exude a tremendous amount of the icky powder... makes a huge mess...
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by MrWizard » 8 Apr 2013 21:56
"Doctor it hurts when I do this ! Doctors reply : "Then stop doing that !!! Moral is: Stop tapping it.  Richard
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by MrWizard » 9 Apr 2013 15:22
Just a note to my previous post
I checked the metal used in springs I use which is made by LAB they are not just brass or brass coated they are Phosphor Bronze.
Phosphor Bronze: A hard, strong, corrosion-resistant bronze containing tin and a small amount of phosphorus, used in machine parts, springs, and fine tubing.
Phosphor bronze is used for springs, bolts and various other items used in situations where resistance to fatigue, wear and chemical corrosion are required.
Richard
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by ARF-GEF » 9 Apr 2013 16:37
Hmm interesting MrWiz. I had no experience on phosphor bronze springs. Are they good and lasting? You said it's hard that's not really ideal fro a spring is it? "Doctor it hurts when I do this ! Doctors reply : "Then stop doing that !! 
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by MrWizard » 9 Apr 2013 20:07
They are the best springs I have ever used. LAB make quality pins and springs. They are sturdier than many other brands. I never use anything else unless I have to. Richard
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by ARF-GEF » 11 Apr 2013 11:09
Funny, are they Amrecian? I've never even heard about them here in Europe 
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by MrWizard » 12 Apr 2013 0:58
It's an American company products sold worldwide for only 75 years Since 1956 LAB has specialized in the manufacturing of lock pins. LAB is the largest manufacturer of lock pins and lock rekeying kits. LAB has the reputation of being the highest quality lock tumbler pin manufacturer. LAB lock pins, rekeying kits and locksmith tools are the only choice of the finest lock manufacturers, security professionals, all the leading lock wholesale distributors, and contract hardware suppliers worldwide. http://www.lab-lockpins.com/htm/springs.htmlRichard
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by phrygianradar » 12 Apr 2013 8:57
Since this thread had previously been on the topic of WD-40, graphite, etc. I wanted to ask those of you who are in the know, have you ever heard of or used "CRC Industrial Screwloose"? I tried searching for "screwloose" but it didn't give any results.
I used it the other day to loosen up a lock that was on the back of one of our trailers here at work so I could pick it off (lost key, it's old...) It seemed to work really well. That was a few weeks ago. Now the lock is sitting on my desk and seems to be well lubed and I have picked it quite a few times. Just curious of anyones thoughts on this product.
I have a notion that it will garnish the same feelings that WD-40 does...
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by ARF-GEF » 12 Apr 2013 10:13
I didn't knew of that, keep your eye in that lock and tell us if there are any long term side effects  Check out how abrasive it is, brake cleaning fluid damages plastic parts. (I use it when I can't disassemble a lock but have to clean it from some serious dirt)
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by phrygianradar » 12 Apr 2013 15:38
ARF-GEF wrote:I didn't knew of that, keep your eye in that lock and tell us if there are any long term side effects  Check out how abrasive it is, brake cleaning fluid damages plastic parts. (I use it when I can't disassemble a lock but have to clean it from some serious dirt)
This lock had been outside on the back of a truck in the rain and weather for two years. Eventhough we are in San Diego (paradise like weather  ) it was very rusty and crusty. The pins were almost frozen in place, but after I sprayed it with the screwloose, it dripped off all that stuff and I was able to pick it. That was about three or four weeks ago. It still seems nice and loosened up. I ended up finding a key for it... What happened was this; the warehouse guys wanted a new lock, so they said the key was gone. I got a new lock and took the old one off and then they "found" the key. They then told me the real problem was that they were having a hard time getting it locked again after openning it. It is a Master No5. Works fine now; they got a new lock and I got the old one!
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by MrWizard » 12 Apr 2013 16:17
Never used CRC Screwloose so can't comment on it. But I can say Zoom Spout Oiler and Zoom Spout Rust Buster are fabulous products. Zoom Spout Oiler is the highest grade turbine oil can be used as a general oil for anything works really good. Will loosen frozen parts quickly. Has a long pull out spout to reach places otherwise unassailable. Zoom Spout Rust Buster works where others have failed to work. Smells toxic for sure as most rust penetrates do. This is a must have for terminally frozen parts. I had a large nut on the base of my fold over Ham Radio tower that had been frozen on there since 1985 used combination of both the turbine oil and rust buster and after a few days it worked where nothing else did. I found the cheapest place to buy these online. Highly recommended. Product Description: Zoom Spout Oiler, Container Type Bottle, Size 4 oz., Flash Point 146 Degrees F, VOC Content 100 Percent, Specific Gravity 0.809 @ 60 Degrees F, Contains Petroleum, Telescoping Spout Adapter, Contains No Acids, Alkali Or Harmful Ingredients, Quickly Loosens Rusted Bolts, Screws, Piping and All Types Of Frozen Connections And Or Assemblies LA-CO Zoom Spout OilersFlexible 7" telescoping spout for hard-to-reach areas. 4NA76 turbine-grade oil is for rotating and reciprocating equipment, bearings, motors, and slides. 1XPG4 Rust Buster penetrant quickly loosens rusted and frozen connections and assemblies. Contains no acid, alkali, or other hazardous ingredients.Lubricants Markal Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.appliancezone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=20501Zoom Spout Rust Buster https://www.appliancezone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=20500You can get Zoom Spout Oiler at HomeDepot sold as evap cooler bearing oil it is the same product at twice the price. You save money online for either product if you buy in bulk to offset the 5.95 SH just do the math to save online with this. Richard
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