Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

3d printed pinning tray.

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 29 Aug 2014 16:10

The process starts by designing a 3 dimensional object. Solidworks is the standard($$$$$$$$) but you can use a multitude of competitors. If you're mechanically minded, 3d design is only a matter of learning how to get the buttons to do what you need to get your idea into the model. At this point we are outside the realm of physical limitation. You can design whatever you can conceive. Size, strength and manufacture are not an issue. This is just a 3d representation of something. The programs can be very robust. You can make change materials, nuts, bolts, assemble different parts, animate how those parts will interact with each other and move, stress test simulations etc. If you know which manufacturing process you're going to be using it can be helpful to incorporate that into your design but the same model I make for a 3d printer can be used by a computerized cnc mill. I could also use the model to automatically create drawings for a machinist to hand turn, or a model builder to cut in styrofoam. For 3d printing you generally want a contiguous shell, meaning all your faces (sides) line up, no holes randomly in a face.

Once you have your 3d model you'll need to export it into 3d printer software language. Most use .stls aka stereolithographs. Wire frame objects which can be as detailed as you want. Increase the detail (faces), and our next step will take longer. A flat surface will only have on face, but something like a curve is actually broken up into many small sections. Like early, 3d video games.

We take that stl into a 3d print software, slic3r is popular, and we're going to export it into printer language (gcode), which breaks down to a bunch of motor speeds and positions. Be at this x,y and z extruding this much plastic.
For a 3d printer it's going to print in layers from the bottom up, or top down for certain types not using plastic filament for its medium. Either way that stl is going to get sliced from top to bottom, a lot like an mri machine. How many slices is going to be dependent on layer height. How thick do we want each layer, like slicing a deli ham. Thinner will be more accurate one we make the part but increase print time. The printer will have to make more passes over the same x and y as the rate at which z increases is decreased. Also increased processing time to export our gcode.
Slic3r is also going to have my printer settings. What dimensions are my printers x, y and z axises. How much filament do I want to be extruding. How thick is my filament? At what temperature do I want to extrude (melt and squirt out my filament), how hot do I want to make the print bed(what were squirting on)? Should the extruder motor pull filament back crossing perimeters so I don't drip? There are a lot of options.

To answer fox's question, objects have interior space. Hollow objects are not as strong as solid objects. The trick is to strike a balance between filling that interior space while saving weight and material. How strong does the part have to be? How light? For 3d printing, fill as its called, will also increase print times. More to extrude. You can fill interior space in an infinite amount of ways from the most basic solid (fill it all with material) to my preferred honeycomb. When using a patterned infill, another consideration is density, how small are the honeycombs. You can do triangles, lines, little balls. Whatever. Some are more efficient than others. I prefer honeycomb because I find it to be the strong and simple. Nature is pretty good like that.
See http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill

If you didn't work it into your 3d model, at this point you can add automatically generated support material, like scaffolding, which can be removed after the print is completed. You can also add a raft if you don't want the bottom of the object to be in contact with the print bed.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 29 Aug 2014 16:29

For pros cons limitations:
Pros are within my own home I can produce any part within the confines of my 3d printers capability. I can make most things I think up using a combo 3d printed parts and home depot very quickly.
The material is relatively strong and cheap. A limitation is shear. As we move from layer to layer the top layer has to bond to the previous one. Like slices of cheese stacked up. If I have thin walls, there isn't a lot to adhere to, also I don't want to push down too hard smooshing the 3d printed structure.

There are also physical limitation as to what can be extruded. 3d printers use an additive process, rather than a reductive process like a mill. As I'm printing something the first layer needs to stick to the bed. If I'm making something that's off center, the bond between the bed and first layer might not be enough and will tip. Something like a hollow ball requires that the printer is calibrated very accurately to move in ever increasing circles as z moves up, then back down again to a point. The contact point with the bed is only a point. Not going to hold. I have to use a support structure that holds it there, then remove after printing and smooth with sanding or acetone. Something like an alligator skull would be very difficult as the teeth have high detail and the upper mandible extends over the love mandible so far. There's nothing to support the initial layer (string) as it moves out to the nose. You could flip it and print it from back of head to nose, but then the back of the head is flat. I would probably do it like that with support structure around the back of the cranium going up to the nose, hoping that the teeth don't sag.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby YouLuckyFox » 29 Aug 2014 17:48

. j j Fascinating, thank you for the time you took in detailing this. If you don't mind a few more questions, I would certainly appreciate your input (if not, thanks for indulging me up to this point):
Is there ever trouble with the support structure getting in the way of the printing head? For example, with a sphere, would the support structure needed to be added mid-process after "so-many" layers?

Also, are most 3D printing machines accurate down to 0.0001" like the milling machines I've worked with?

Finally, could you help clear up for me whether you can print an object out of titanium, aluminum, or stainless steel? In other words, is there a limitation on the material you can use that is specific to the process? (i.e. you can only use an Oxy-Acetylene torch to cut something that reaches kindling temperature within a certain range.)

Thank you again, like I said, this is fascinating,
. j j Fox
YouLuckyFox
 
Posts: 630
Joined: 10 Aug 2012 19:25

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 29 Aug 2014 19:54

The x, y and z are very accurate but the z is going to move incrementally with respect to layer height. What you have to worry about is layer height. My printer is spec'ed to handle an accuracy of .05mm or 50 microns. I've heard of people going as low as .01mm. Home metal printing seems possible and could be a reality in the near future. Obviously there are dangers and temperatures that come into play. The most basic print is pla, it extrudes at the lowest temp and is the most popular along with abs. You also don't need a heated print bed for PLA. Abs is the same stuff they make bike helmets out of. I extrude it at about 225c and you need a heated bed for quality prints. Next thermoplastic up the chain is Polycarbonate most often referred to as its industry name, lexan. Tough stuff. About 400c. A lot of printers can't do lexan because of the temp required to melt it to the point it's extrudable. Mine can because it is newer. Deviating from the more popular varieties...

There are people experimenting with carbon fiber. Basically the filament is a combination of resin and strands that get melted and pushed through the print nozzle together. There is another filament that just came out that mimics the physical characteristics of wood. Polyester, Nylon, flexible filaments are all available. The technology is moving rapidly.

So far we have been talking about filament and extrusion based 3d printers. Basically a strand is fed into a heating element and forced out of a nozzle. There are other types. One is where a thin powder is spread, then a binding agent is sprayed, sticking the powder together. Then the entire print bed moves down and a new layer of powder is spread, ready to print the next layer. Rather than building up on a flat surface, the object pulls down. Those can do metal right now.

Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVJifm2b6-c

If you wanted a homemade part out of metal, you could always go old fashioned. Print the part. Make a mold (Sand, wax w/e). Heat up your crucible and pour it.

3d printers are bound by the same physical laws as the torch. If I tried to get my print head too hot right now it would melt and start a fire. With advancements in 3d printer construction materials, there will be advancements in the media with which it can print. I wouldn't count anything out material wise. Printing in tungsten is probably the holy grail and I bet 3d print heads will be being made out of them sooner than later.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby YouLuckyFox » 30 Aug 2014 1:10

Thank you again for your contribution to this topic :D ! I feel that there is certainly merit to using a 3D printer; and that there are advantages and disadvantages between all manufacturing processes. I look forward to seeing further developments in the 3D printing process. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions!
YouLuckyFox
 
Posts: 630
Joined: 10 Aug 2012 19:25

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby C-Horse » 7 Sep 2014 0:48

I will take some pics tomorrow but I Plasti Dipped the tray you sent me and it really came out nice.

Thanks again man !
" In the end it is only me my weapon and my trigger finger "
Image
C-Horse
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 114
Joined: 5 Aug 2014 2:31
Location: Largo Florida

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby asgardschosen » 16 Nov 2014 16:35

Nice looking tray! If you're still up to print them for people, PM me. I do have some digital lockpicking materials you may be interested in.
-asg
asgardschosen
 
Posts: 62
Joined: 14 Oct 2014 12:24
Location: SF Bay Area

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 16 Nov 2014 23:41

I'm still up for it. Pm'ed.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby asgardschosen » 26 Nov 2014 16:47

Got the pinning tray, thanks a bunch!
-asg
asgardschosen
 
Posts: 62
Joined: 14 Oct 2014 12:24
Location: SF Bay Area

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 26 Nov 2014 23:04

Anytime. I would also trade plug followers. Basically anything someone wants 3d printed. I'm interested in some odd security pins/ etc.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby asgardschosen » 27 Nov 2014 14:45

That makes me wonder... Can you 3d print pins? Or does it not work because they're super small?
-asg
asgardschosen
 
Posts: 62
Joined: 14 Oct 2014 12:24
Location: SF Bay Area

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 27 Nov 2014 18:32

You could probably do it. The issue would be wear and adhesion between the printed layers. I never though about it before but you could probably print a model cutaway. I would scale it 200% to make printing and seeing things easier. Might be my next project now. Anyone have any 3d models of locks out there? If you do let me get a hold of a file. Even detailed schematics of a Kwikset I could use to design a 3d model. If not, I'll sit down with a micrometer one day.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby asgardschosen » 11 Dec 2014 20:17

I don't have any good security pins for ya, but if you're up for making some of those plug followers I'd be happy to toss ya some cash. PM me if you're interested.
-asg
asgardschosen
 
Posts: 62
Joined: 14 Oct 2014 12:24
Location: SF Bay Area

Re: 3d printed pinning tray.

Postby ggpaintballer » 11 Dec 2014 21:47

I'll try and print some up this weekend.
ggpaintballer
 
Posts: 78
Joined: 24 Apr 2014 22:32

Previous

Return to Pick-Fu [Intermediate Skill Level]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests