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by MrTom » 3 Aug 2006 12:49
Hello everyone, I was thinking about lubrication of picks and thought that maybe if you rub the business end of a pick with graphite, like from a pencil or graphite rod (they are in art shops and look like a pencil, but are all graphite, no wood) it would make it easier to slide? Also if you have a practice setup it would lubricate the pins.
Or has someone already proved this idea rubbish?
Cheers
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by UWSDWF » 3 Aug 2006 12:59
Your picks themselves should not need lubrication (other than standard metal care). If the lock you are working with is that stiff to move your picks in the lock itself needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
Details on how to do this can be found through the local search function ( HERE) as I am very lazy and try to type as little as possible.
Good idea in principle but not very nessicary.
Hope you don't think I'm 'picking' on you
Cheers
UWSDWF
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by MrTom » 3 Aug 2006 13:35
Not at all, thankyou for your reply
I have never felt the need to lubricate, but I use graphite to lubricate carbrettors because it doesn't 'gunk up' like liquid lubes - a quality that could have been useful I guessed!
Thanks again
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by UWSDWF » 3 Aug 2006 13:46
there is a huge debate on the best lubricants to use.
Graphite in locks should be used spairingly as it can build up and jam the pins
Most will say never to use WD40
I personally suggest a silicone based lube
never ever mixed lubricants as this can open the portal to hades in your lock
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by Themathwizard » 9 Aug 2006 1:38
The only cleaning that I could see is preventing them from getting rusty and thats about it. For my other tools i spray wd-40 on rag and wipe the tools clean. This keeps them clean and provides a cover from moisture. Some people believe that it would make the tool slippery but I have never come across that. And Silicone won't keep them from rust.
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by Devs » 26 Aug 2006 7:37
I like to use Tri-Flow Bicycle Chain Lubercant. It clears everything out and lubercates without dust bulid up. It's so popular with pros that my supplier stocks it. -Dev
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by Gundanium » 26 Aug 2006 16:02
Yeah lubrications are a debate.
If you want to Harvest graphite from a pencil and apply it
Fold a piece of paper in half, sharpen your pencil and mark on the side, the powder forms on the fold and you can funnel and blow it into the lock.
yadda yadda, I have some lock lube and the crap is messy as hell, came with a set I bought.
someone love me!
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by Bud Wiser » 26 Aug 2006 19:13
UWSDWF wrote:there is a huge debate on the best lubricants to use. Graphite in locks should be used spairingly as it can build up and jam the pins
Most will say never to use WD40
I personally suggest a silicone based lube
never ever mixed lubricants as this can open the portal to hades in your lock
Is there a reason not to use wd40?
I use it all the time for sticky, rusty locks and 99% of the time it makes them work almost like new. (these are working locks, not practice locks)
thx.
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by Shrub » 26 Aug 2006 19:21
Well wd40 is a degreaser actually, it will remove any good lube from the lock and for a limited time help the lock work better but soon the very very thin oil will run away and leave metal on metal parts,
The spray also can degrease the natural lube found in brass parts for a while which will inflicty wear on the lock if then not properly lubed,
If you are lubing locks on a costomers door it should be removed and stripped and lubed properly if its rusted etc and new parts used where applicable,
If its used to free off a sticky lock or to help with picking then the lock should be dired and then lubed properly afterwards,
Oil also attracts dust which builds up and forms a paste which can wear the lock if not jam it up,
The oil can also make the customers key black and then that can be wiped off on their clothes making a hard to get rid of stain and the door can also have this stain if too much is used,
A ptfe or silicon based spray is the best with alternitives being the teflon based triflow or graphite powder but graphite must be used sparingly and only on dry locks and if not used correctly can do just as much damage to a lock as no lube at all,
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by Bud Wiser » 26 Aug 2006 19:37
thx for the detailed explaination Shrub!
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by grim » 27 Aug 2006 15:34
Devs wrote:I like to use Tri-Flow Bicycle Chain Lubercant. It clears everything out and lubercates without dust bulid up. It's so popular with pros that my supplier stocks it. -Dev
tri-flow is all my shop uses. great stuff.
grim
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by grim » 27 Aug 2006 15:38
Gundanium wrote:Yeah lubrications are a debate. If you want to Harvest graphite from a pencil and apply it
graphite from a pencil is NOT good to use. here's why...
pencil "lead" is actually a mixture of graphite and clay. i hope i needn't explain why it's a bad idea to try to lube a lock with clay.
grim
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by metalking00 » 29 Aug 2006 18:26
Shrub wrote:Well wd40 is a degreaser actually, it will remove any good lube from the lock...
Im glad someone else knows it's not a cure all! They really should label it "Penetrant, to be used in conjunction with a lubricant".
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by Octillion » 29 Aug 2006 18:55
Just to add, Teflon is simply DuPont's brand for PTFE, so lube with PTFE or Teflon are essentially the same thing.
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by Shrub » 29 Aug 2006 19:03
Yes your right on the teflon thing, triflow is a trade mark as well,
On the WD-40 thing, WD is Wet to Dry and 40 is the weight of the oil ie thin, it was designed to remove moisture from old fashioned points and distrubitors on cars,
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