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by bumpit » 20 Jan 2007 17:05
This is how my safe was built. A few modications though.
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by Legion303 » 21 Jan 2007 2:03
I hope you remembered to use a drill-resistant dial...
-steve
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by mh » 21 Jan 2007 17:15
I think it has a Hard-Wood-Plate instead.
Nice project!
That's the second wooden safe I've seen in this forum, though - where are the clay specialists?? Clay could work, too, and if treated properly, the hard clay could also be used as the equaivalent of tempered glass 
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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by Deathadder » 21 Jan 2007 18:31
LOL, that's the perfect idea, a glass safe lock! It would be easy to learn from because you would be able to see all the moving parts and the cams lining up.
It's ok guys, i have a really bad attention sp-wow look, a beach!
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by KBsecurities » 21 Jan 2007 21:19
Hey I would struggle with metal, Id hate to see what a glass safe would look like if I tried to build it. lol It would probly be in pieces on the floor with a frustrated loook on my face
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by C-Riv » 21 Jan 2007 23:25
looks good but i hope thats fire resistant wood...haha....wouldnt want anybody breakin into that....
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by lunchb0x » 22 Jan 2007 0:18
at trade school i had to make a safe door, i might post some pics up soon, and good job with the wooden safe
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by Squelchtone » 22 Jan 2007 1:12
well done KB, that's a great looking project!
It's nice to see how this hobby brings out our creative sides.
props.
Squelchtone
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by phantomhck » 12 May 2007 14:01
that's a really good idea, I think I might make a safe out of acrylic (plastic sheets), and if I do I'll make sure to put up pictures. Do you have a turning handle/lever to open the safe? I didn't see anything where you could pull the bolt back with the spindle knob. I would make an overhead cam that drops in by spring action and is released by turning the knob back.
This safe would have a vulnerability to sensing the cam disk height offsets.
not to mention that it's made of wood
very nice though, I like the idea.
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by jhl » 12 May 2007 22:05
Neat work!
Making wooden models is underrated, gives you a good feel for the underlying engineering of a mechanism I find...
...brave enough to try a wooden oversized pin-tumbler lock? 
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by raimundo » 13 May 2007 8:57
to improve the fire rating, look into the type of wood product that the university of wisconsin developed for the nose cone of polaris sublaunched missiles, it apparently burns up slowly while protecting the parts behind it by not transmitting heat. gooogle might have more info.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by raimundo » 13 May 2007 10:08
I googled it myself, apparently its called and ablative nosecone, it turns to vapor but does not transmit heat, and it was used on the first generation polaris missles.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by Deathadder » 13 May 2007 22:29
the one i built was actually quite different, mine had a drive cam and three wheels, and was a lever/fence model. mine is also made of metal and has a combination changer. I haven't put on the door to the safe, just built the mechanism and welded the walls together. i still need to find some good solid hinges to add to it, and still need to connect the lock to the back of the door.
It's ok guys, i have a really bad attention sp-wow look, a beach!
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by Jaakko » 14 May 2007 3:35
Deathadder wrote:has a combination changer
Could you provide some info and/or pictures as I have had the idea to build a safe lock myself but I have lacked the knowledge about those combination change things. I know that the wheels are "sandwiched" and the combination changekey dislodges them but I haven't seen or cannot imagine what the wheels actually look like dismantled. I would like to know this, so please, if you have information, please share it 
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