Picking the Best SFIC

[Stevo]

Searched, but didn't find everything I needed to know on this guy.

I did find a lovely wrench diagram:
viewtopic.php?p=42248

...which I duplicated by modifying an existing wrench.

From looking at photos of the SFIC, I presume that the control sleeve must be picked clockwise. Someone shout out if this is not correct.

My learning specimen is a padlock with an L keyway and the wrench really really likes the counterclockwise approach. It tends to slip when tension is applied clockwise. Ok then, will the sleeve turn counterclockwise and allow the subsequent use of a spinner, or is this a non-starter?

[TheProfessor]

yes it is clockwise

[TheProfessor]

*doh* sorry for the double post, no edit button.

has anyone been able to pick this thing without the special tension wrench, i mean reproducibly pick it, not just getting lucky

[Chucklz]

Yes, I can regularly get the operating shear line.

If your tension tool "slips" you may want to try shimming the sides after you insert the wrench. A single cut up bit of sweeper bristle that is not suitable for making picks will make wonderful shims.

[Stevo]

Never seen a "wrench shim" before and I've looked hard! But I do understand what you are saying. I think it should work in this case.

Put a little bend at the end to keep it from running off into they keyway and getting lost?

[TheProfessor]

chucklz: sounds like a good idea, ill have to give that a go, other then that do you have any other tips, i would really like to be able to pick these little bastards without that special wrench. So far what ive been doing is just concentrating on individual pins and taking note of where they catch, then setting them in various combinations until something works... if that makes any sense to you However it is a very error prone and time consuming process. And in all truth i have only made it work once, and there is a good chance that was just dumb luck

[seaker]

So far what ive been doing is just concentrating on individual pins and taking note of where they catch, then setting them in various combinations until something works...

Best advertises that the chance of this is really far out there...[/i]

[TheProfessor]

like i said, chances are it was just dumb luck i got it that one time

[Chucklz]

Yes a little bend will keep you from making a very annoying mistake with your "wrench shim". The idea here is to keep your control shearline wrench as vertical as possible so as to be sure to engage the control sleeve.

[Stevo]

Ok, I alternately tried shimming and downward pressure on the sfic tool to get the thing to stay engaged on the sleeve. What I found was that I had no "touch" at all with the pressure of the wrench. After screwing with it for a Long Time, I decided to give counterclockwise a go "just to see." Of course, I picked it in about 10 minutes. I'm pretty sure it was the control shear. It turned a little bit then hit a stop. I don't have a plug spinner, but one would probably have worked. Perhaps the lock did this just to taunt me.

The L keyway makes it tough to get clockwise pressure for me, but counterclockwise is a cinch:



Take some height off my sfic tool? Thin it? Maybe I'll make the teeth "pointier" in hopes they grip deeper.

Where's the best place to shim? I've been trying to put one at "2 o'clock" on the tool.

Thanks for the feedback thus far!

[thertel]

God I hate the L keyway. Now I may be misunderstanding what and when you plan to use the plug spinner for, but If you pick the control shear line, using a plug spinner will not get the lock to rotate the other way, because it is a completely seperate shearline than the operational shear line. As for picking the operational shear line consistently, yes I can do it, but it takes a bit longer than the control shear line. Plus when I pull the core out I like to take the time and decombinate the lock and come up with a working control key for future convenience.

Thomas

[VarlamShalamov]

Hey Chucklz,

Out of curiosity, how long does it take you to pick the lock at the operating shear line? I just got a Best padlock and it's been driving me crazy (well... as crazy as I get, which is not saying much). I finally had enough and ordered the Peterson tool, so I'll see how that works out.

Also, and this one is to anybody, are Russwin-Corbin locks similar in design? I've been able to pick those in about half a minute every time, and I heard they have the same deal with an operating and control shear line as well, although I could be wrong.

[Stevo]

I'm also working on a Best Padlock. It's maddening.

I took some height off of my sfic tool so that it doesn't get hung up on any wards and will rest more vertically. This seems to have helped.

With an sfic tool, do you guys torque it or tug at it to put pressure on the control shear?

Also, maybe i had picked the operating shear when I got the plug to go counterclockwise that once time... I don't know. All I know is that it went maybe a quarter turn before stopping out and doing nothing for me.

Anyone other random advice for this lock?

[randmguy]

You are not going to get the control line to move more than a few degrees with counterclockwise turning force. The control lug on an SFIC is designed to turn clockwise only and it only moves 15 degrees when you turn it to remove the core. You may get a little twitch turning counterclockwise (much like a false set with a security pin) due to the machining tolerances.

Randm advice for picking to the control line on an SFIC would include cleaning and lubing the lock well. These things usually go years without the control lug moving so they corrode a bit and this makes the control lug stiffer than the change or master shear lines. You can push in a bit on the face of the cylinder while working on the lock to keep the lug from contacting the stop in the lock body. One thing to remember when picking an SFIC is that locksmiths have known for years that the control line is easy to find compared to the control line and some cylinders have the holes in the bottom of the cylinder widened to more of an oval shape to prevent anyone from removing the lock without the control key. If you can get the 15 degree rotation and the lock cylinder will not come free of the lock body you can slide a shim into the left side of the lock to feel if the lug on the cylinder has been retracted fully. If you can slide the shim all the way to the back then you've got it picked. The cylinder is likely to be corroded into the body and you're going to need some penetrating fluid of your choice to free it for removal.

[Chucklz]

The Corbin Russwin cores are a bit different from the Best style in that they area "larger format" so the plug is of standard diameter. There may be security pins in some of these so watch out. I've only had experience with one set of these cores, all keyed the same. Generally no more than 15 seconds to open (Easy bitting, no mushroom pins). With a nasty bitting, I would guess these would be just as hard as your standard Corbin-Russwin cylinder... which is no joke.

Best SFIC, generally about 5 miutes at first, then usually down to less than one, but thats with practice.