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by ldnlksmth » 13 Jan 2007 18:00
I agree with you... super glue is good for holding the small plastic King Kong that my nephew gave me one year to the top of my monitor, and for holding the hula girl with the grass skirt and spring torso to my dashboard. Other than that, there are specific fluids for every job, and they should be used in all circumstances.
keys, we don't need no stinking keys!
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by pickinboogies » 15 Aug 2009 3:14
It is very good ingenuity, but bad for the lock of course. I suppose if you only needed to open it the one time and didn't care about the lock from there on in, then it's great. Otherwise,, it's really gonna do more damage than it's worth. Maybe you could find something else that will work that won't hurt the lock??....
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by ElbowMacaroni » 15 Aug 2009 13:48
Well, as long as you're going to be disassembling and cleaning the lock, there are solvents that eat wax like it's goin' outta style.
"Cave ab homine unius libri"
Beware of anyone who has just one book
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by sterry20 » 11 May 2012 12:20
I understand the high low pin problem. what the problem is that you are useing the wrong tool try the deforest pick it was designed just for this problem.the pick itself is angled up at the front of the pick and when you see it you will say that is an answer to all my prayers!
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by raimundo » 13 May 2012 10:13
Interesting to see an old thread revived that was started by Lauren, who now is one of the founts of information here. I think he has come a long way in 6 years since he started this thread. Read his recent stuff, he has some great manufactures of his own.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by pretender » 25 May 2012 22:46
If you're just picking it, hey, why not experiment?
Not sure I agree with wax being totally impossible to remove. Good flush with mineral spirits and a little heat worked wonders on Cosmoline...if it's oriented with the pins being on the top, you could maybe salvage the lock. Bottom...nah. Foul up the springs. Get the crud out of there, and since it's petroleum based - think it's Birchwood Casey - they make some really awful, obnoxious stuff based on ether or sommat...it'll strip metal so bare you worry about it rusting.
I'm sure I'm wrong on a couple points, but it worked really good for gummed up Milsurp rifles with teensy parts that had to be absolutely clean if you didn't want to lose a hand.
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by raimundo » 26 May 2012 9:53
milsurp rifles? these days that would be old mauser 98's and manlichercarcano stuff. or AK stuff I suppose. cant think of any parts that actually need to be clean though.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by raimundo » 26 May 2012 9:56
milsurp rifles? these days that would be old mauser 98's and manlichercarcano stuff. or AK stuff I suppose. cant think of any parts that actually need to be clean though. In Viet Nam, we used to tear the lead off of the M16 bullets and then stuff soap bars onto the cartridge, this gave a soap round that was saft to shoot inside bunkers at rats. it didn't tear up the sandbags or riccochet. when done this left the barrel half occluded but water would wash it right out. 
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by gibson » 26 May 2012 13:06
rai - you dinky dau!
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by atticRR » 27 Jun 2012 22:38
a quick redirect: the OP (lauren) wasnt recommending using wax as lube. It was to kepp the pins at the shear line. Neat trick, methinks. Im too lazy to try it, but i like it.
I punched punctuation right in the face!
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by raimundo » 28 Jun 2012 8:22
dinky dau di di mau numba ten charlie xin loi sorry bout that
I think I forgot boucoup of that lingo but it is interesting to hear another member bring it up
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by gibson » 28 Jun 2012 21:07
@raimundo another re-direct - believe me, that was totally from reading a lot. my number was 208 back in '72. and they never got that high. funny though, if i was born six hours later, my draft number would have been #1.
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