Briggs security lock kicking my behind

by **l0cked0ut** » 22 Oct 2005 1:09

mad mick, i dont take things personally, i usually dont even care about noob flaming when its all in fun or when its deserved (such as when someone asks how to pick their mother's safe with paper clips or something equally dumb)

by the way, columns turned sideways are rows are they not? The way I hold some locks in my hand, with the pins lying horizontally, technically could be viewed as rows of pins. Must have been how i made that, again, very minor mistake.

by **localhost** » 22 Oct 2005 22:30

Pickermeapie wrote:Thats C++ language isn't it?

Haha, yes it is.

by **Greyflex** » 26 Oct 2005 11:52

It could just as easily be C or C+, could it not?

How can you identify this as C++, specifically?

Is "int skold" part of the C++ compiler, only? lol

by **Gordon Airporte** » 26 Oct 2005 21:04

It could just as easily be C or C+, could it not?

How can you identify this as C++, specifically?

You can tell because of "#include <iostream>" where in C it would most likely be "#include <stdio.h>", although why he included I can't tell because he didn't actually use anything from the library :-)

by **Pickermeapie** » 27 Oct 2005 0:07

Sigh, from a lock kicking someone's butt to C++ programming language. Can only happen here on LP101. P.S. thanks to Gordon for that!

by **skold** » 27 Oct 2005 4:55

Yes..C++ was the language i used minimaly in that post.

It was the boredom that lead me to use it.

by **Varjeal** » 27 Oct 2005 9:11

*kicking the dead dog back on track*

If possible, try picking the spool pins first, and watch for the distinct jump of the cylinder turning if you've not picked them correctly.

Hope that helps.

by **l0cked0ut** » 27 Oct 2005 22:24

ive seen some techniques that involve getting the lock into the binding position so that the spool pins get stuck, then pushing the spool pins up while slightly releasing tension. In theory, this should work well, but the pick takes a beating while doing this and it seems like I have to apply way too much pickpressure while attempting this. Of course, once the spool pins are set, the other pins unset, but even after i reset them, the lock doesnt open. I really cant tell how many spool pins there are, i guess thats why its kicking my butt.

by **digital_blue** » 27 Oct 2005 23:09

One of the guys in my LSI Chapter brought one of my padlocks home to practice with after the last meeting. I gave it to him specifically because it has a spool pin in it, and it's a bit nasty for a beginner. It's just a reasonably cheap, brass Garrison padlock.

He called me today and told me he was about 30 seconds from finding a more "destructive" thing to do with the lock. :lol:

I spent 3 minutes on the phone with him and told him that he'd have the lock open by the end of the day. I was pleased when he called me back 5 minutes later to tell me that he had it, and it happened exactly as I said it would. That's a cool feeling!

All I told him was this. Pick the lock like it's any other. When you come to a point where the plug has rotated significantly, say between 5 and 10 degrees, lighten up your tension considerably (but not enough to start dropping pins) and begin to lever the hook against the bottom of the keyway, applying upward pressure on each pin, one by one. When you come to the pin that has some give in it, you'll feel the plug fighting back against you a bit, as if it wants to turn back. That's the key. Keep the tension light and give it just a little bit more of a nudge.

I have found that much of the time you will not even reset the set pins if you have your tension just right.

Having said that, it gets considerably harder when 2 spools are involved, and harder still when it's 3. But the pointer that seemed to be the biggest help to my friend was "lighten up your tension".

Now I've gotta figure out what to give him next. (For anyone that cares, it was Sean.. he is listed on the rankings page on www.locksport.com. He'll be a level 3 or 4 next time we test for sure!).

db

by **treboR** » 28 Oct 2005 1:15

You could give him a 5 pin rekeyable brinks padlock. It has 4 spool pins. He can take out all but 2 and work his way up. This is the lock I learned to pick spool pins on.

It even comes with some extra bottom pins to practice macs'ed out pin combinations on.

by **tony cicero** » 28 Oct 2005 1:36

ya i can tell you. i am a locksmith by trade and have been for quite some time first of all how are you trying to pick this lock. try using a pick gun ive picked many padlocks with a pick gun (most quality padloks have spool pins). anyways i think im on the wrong site can anyone tell me here locksmiths go to gather info from other locksmihts "online". Im old and dont know how to use the internet. also if you think you cant pick spool pins with a pick gun your wrong i have picked all(pin) locks with a pick gun including "peaks" and many many "best"locks.

by **digital_blue** » 28 Oct 2005 2:52

Yes, I do believe you are on the wrong site.

http://www.locksmiths101.com/forums/

Cheers!

P.S. At least you didn't recommend the drill.

db

by **l0cked0ut** » 28 Oct 2005 10:43

digital_blue wrote:All I told him was this. Pick the lock like it's any other. When you come to a point where the plug has rotated significantly, say between 5 and 10 degrees, lighten up your tension considerably (but not enough to start dropping pins) and begin to lever the hook against the bottom of the keyway, applying upward pressure on each pin, one by one. When you come to the pin that has some give in it, you'll feel the plug fighting back against you a bit, as if it wants to turn back. That's the key. Keep the tension light and give it just a little bit more of a nudge.

This is actually the technique I was describing but I guess you said it better than I did. After getting the initial 10 degree turn and then by releasing a bit of torque and pushing up on the binding pin, id expect to feel a "pushback effect", but the feeling is barely noticeable and/or the lock is made well enough that there is hardly any pushback feeling without a significant amount of pressure. Perhaps the shape of the spools has a role in this. I also dont know how many spools there are, but from feeling around after several tries I believe there are 3. This is way too difficult of a lock for me at this stage.

by **Gordon Airporte** » 28 Oct 2005 17:34

I recently purchased one of these and I'll say that it's actually harder to pick than my Brinks shrouded padlock. This is now that I'm familiar with both locks - the brass one I opened in two and a half minutes the first time, the shrouded, which I got first, in more like two and a half days

.
I've found that you really pick it with the tesnsion more than with the pick, although it gives me a much harder time with a hook vs. a deep curve (the rounded tip seems to help.)
For whatever reason the spools really work on the brass one, and a couple of them always cause fallout (which you can hear) if they're left standing on the false set. You just have to determine which spools will cause fallout and figure out a way to fully set them before you false set on the other spools. Careful scrubbing seems to work best. Then you can lever the nicer spools into place like normal and the lock opens. Also note that the first pin may be a spool - it is on both of my Brinks locks.

by **digital_blue** » 29 Oct 2005 0:39

Just to follow up on my story above about my friend Sean, I was at his place this evening and he told me that this experience with the Garrison has forced him to learn how to feel out individual pins and pay attention to what's actually going on inside the lock. Yay!

I dropped off a Weiser deadbolt and taught him how to re-pin it. His next "assignment" is to start with 2 pins and work his way up. Because of the selection of pins I left him with, by the time he's on to 4 pins he'll be forced to have 1 spool pin and when he gets to 5 he'll have 2. Just watch. This guy's gonna be up to speed in no time.

db

Briggs security lock kicking my behind

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