My home made barrel key collection (& how to)

[Lauren]

I always try my best to describe padlock components accurately. I have been scratching my head on the correct terminology generally accepted by locksmiths and technical writers that describes certain types of antique lever padlocks. If "locking dog" is synonymous with "bolt" (these are the terms used to describe the part that locks the hasp into the lock casing), then what term best describes the type of lever padlocks that contain lever tumblers that have no "gate slots", but are also used as direct locking instruments to the hasp in the way of a locking dog? I know manufacturers still called these type of locks multi-lever padlocks, but it would nice to find that special word that distinguishes "direct locking lever tumbler locks" in relation to the hasp. Anyway, when someone finds out, let me know.

I recently obtained this old "Safe" padlock (shown below) without a key in the locked position. This lock reminds me of the "Ames Sword" style padlocks. I had a notion that my Safe lock was most likely a direct-locking lever style as well based on what I know about the Ames locks. By the way, if any one can tell me the history behind the Safe Lock Company I would be interested in this information as well. History of acquisitions can be a tricky thing. But I believe Safe, Corbin, American Hardware Co., Russwin, Black and Decker were all chained in some way or another.

I was able to pick my newest padlock in under a minute. A little hasp tension and picking with a "hook" did the trick. Making a homemade key blank for this lock was a little more difficult. This was the first time I have encounters a flat key requiring top and bottom ward cuts. I cut the bits by merely reading the lever movement through the lock casing with the hasp open. Overall, this is nice padlock with a nice solid weight. This lock will really enhance my collection.













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[Lauren]

This morning, I was reading an old book by Robert L. Robinson, titled "Complete Coarse in Professional Locksmithing"; copyright 1973. So, all credit goes to this author. In the glossary the Robinson defines a "BOLT" as the following: "The part of a lock or latch which does the fastening. See also: Barrel bolt; Claw bolt; Deadbolt; Hook bolt; Rotary bolt; Spring bolt (or springbolt)." This claw bolt definition starts to sound interesting, but Robinson also defines the claw bolt as a stationary component (was he saying hasp?) in which one or more key-operated auxilary bolts (also called claw bolts [man, make up your mind Robinson]) which actually do the locking.

I like this word "Claw". So being the inventory that I am, I will define my lever tumblers from my previous post as "claw lever tumblers". Until someone comes up with a better phrase, it will have to do.

[Quickpicknpay]

I've never seen anyone make one of these from a chunk of bar stock! Usually they are made in three pieces and soldered/welded together. Nice work!

[snookfisherman]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but those keys are spectacular.

[mseifert]

Beautiful work... True Craftsman

[Lauren]

Actually, I just finished "spectacular" yesterday. And, just when you may have thought "what's next?", I produced a barrel key from German brass, A.K.A. nickel silver. This is the first time I have ever seen a barrel key made from this material. So far, I have made barrel keys from half hard brass, cold steel, stainless steel, and now nickel silver. The nickel in this alloy made machining with metal cutters very difficult. As a result, 90% of the key was produced using grinding discs. Only two drill bits were used. I always wanted to make a barrel key from nickel silver. Part of the problem was obtaining the material from a U.S. supplier with the correct dimensions. There is even an Ebay seller who offers the metal, but 3/8" is only available up to 3/4" wide. I obtained my material from a knife supply company out of Florida. I paid a lot of money to obtain my metal. With shipping, the cost per square inch breaks down to $2.54 for 3/8" plate. If I had to put a price tag on my latest key, I would have to charge $100.00, and that's just for a straight bit profile with a round key head. The metal is costly, hard to find, and hazardous to work with. This is definitely a LP101 first....Enjoy!

[MBI]

Very nice looking key, and VERY beefy.
I had no idea working with nickel silver would be so problematic.

[GWiens2001]

Very nice. Nickel silver certainly wears key machine cutter discs much faster than brass. As usual, exemplary work, Lauren. Kudos.

Gordon

[Lauren]

I purchased this MILLER padlock from a locksmith Ebay seller. It's always rewarding when I can purchase a lock from a professional that hasn't been messed with or broken. As usual, this lock was obtained in the locked position and without a key. This lock has four lever tumblers and two hasp springs; one spring on each side of the hasp. This lock was picked using hasp compression. This technique is the only way the levers will bind while using a cam tension tool on the rear of the plug. The locking bolt on this lock can not be forced tripped unless the hasp is closed. The cuts on the key were made using a diamond cutting disc on my drill press. This cutter provides sharper inside corners which is a result that a hand file will not produce. The hasp is stamped 105.

[Lauren]

I saw this write up some time ago at ANTIQUE PADLOCKS.COM about picking FRAIM contractor padlocks. There is also a second section about making a key from code using an ILCO key blank, http://www.antique-padlocks.com/fraim_cont_keys.htm

The author spent a lot time compiling information on this lock, so credit needs to be given on a job well done. Anyway, I once told myself that should I ever obtain one of these FRAIM locks, I would put the chart to the test, making my own key from spring steel. The key way on these padlocks has an extra grove to increase the amount of combinations, which could be on the right or the left. I obtained my lock (stamped 63) in the locked position and without a key. I was able to pick my lock using the prescribed technique at Antique-Padlocks, but with some improvements. My shim had to be .005 rather than .009 thick to fit between the hasp and the lock casing. In addition, I zip tied my shim down to give me back my hand to aid in picking. The shim has a strong tendency to pop back up. If this happens the rear locking lever will prevent the other claw levers from actuating clear of the hasp during picking. I also used a "Z" wire through the rear of the key hole to displace the rear locking lever, and I left it in position during the picking process. I made a special dimple on my key to mimic the stamping of an original key, although the dimple is really not necessary. The dimple was stamped first before cutting out the general shape of the key blank. I made my total bit width .403 inches rather than .400 inches to reduce sloppy movement in the lock.

My key was made on my drill press using disc cutters. I never used a hand file. Notice the sharpness of the bit cuts. The shape of the key head was my own design and was ground out using a bench grinder.





The bit cut lines were pre-marked on the key blank using a scribe. The chart from Antique-Padlocks.com worked perfectly. The key works great!

[jeffmoss26]

Beautiful!!

[Lauren]

Several months ago, I purchased a new Corbin barrel key blank from a seller on Ebay for $5.00 plus shipping with the intention that I would eventually find a lock to go with it. Recently, I purchased this all brass Corbin padlock in the locked position from another Ebay seller for $5.99. I was able to quickly pick open this 4 lever padlock using a special picking technique. Afterwards, I decoded the lever displacement using the center pin in the keyhole as a reference surface. I mapped out the uncut barrel key with a scribe tool for the bit depths and cut the key on my drill press. The beauty of this factory key is that is shelf leveling in the vise. The key will automatically stay vertical when key head is placed between the vise plates. The key works perfectly.

[Lauren]

Here's the specs I use to cut these Corbin/Safe straight bit keys (measurements are in inches):

[TCS]

Wow, nice work! Did you ever think about making a jailer's key-gun?

My grandparents had a fake brass novelty one, but I've seen a couple real ones in museums. I don't think I've ever seen one paired with a lock it would open though, so that would be pretty cool. They were apparently not used as weapons, but as a sort of alarm.

[Lauren]

My uncle is actually a fantastic gun smith, but I don't think I would trouble him with that. "You might put your eye out kid!"