WHY IS THE WD-40 SO BAD?

[lsphinx]

What kind of oil are you using? Singer sewing machine oil?

I'm curious is singer sewing machine oil good or bad? I mean, the way you put the question, I can't understand if you're trying to say that sewing machine oil is good or not

well i can tell you now i dont use it,i think it was a trick question to see if i know what i was talking about witch is why i have not answered it.i have never heard of useing it before.i may be wrong so sorry if its any good.but as i say im self trained and only use the oil where i buy my stock.

amlwchlocksmiths thank you very much for your reply. I haven't eared about using it before too. That's why I'm curious I my self only use wd 40 when the lock truly needs and then after some time (days some times) I apply some oil to the lock, but it isn't sewing machine oil

regards,

Luís

[amlwchlocksmiths]

amlwchlocksmiths thank you very much for your reply. I haven't eared about using it before too. That's why I'm curious I my self only use wd 40 when the lock truly needs and then after some time (days some times) I apply some oil to the lock, but it isn't sewing machine oil

regards,

Luís

yes i also only use it if it really needs it,i found a old car lock outside for a ford and it was solid(been there for about 6 years +)
and it free'd it up for me.
im glad you haven't hurd of sewing machine oil either
thanks mike

[globallockytoo]

Actually Singer Sewing Machine oil is probably one of the few oil products I would let near any lock mechanism.

It is better for larger parts tho. I find that silicone or teflon based lubricants are better for smaller tolerance parts and fittings.

Sewing machines, unlike locks have parts that will heat up with repetitive use, causing wear. Singer Sewing machine oil will keep those metals lubricated and cool enough to maintain their existence with less wear for longer.

[amlwchlocksmiths]

Actually Singer Sewing Machine oil is probably one of the few oil products I would let near any lock mechanism.

It is better for larger parts tho. I find that silicone or teflon based lubricants are better for smaller tolerance parts and fittings.

Sewing machines, unlike locks have parts that will heat up with repetitive use, causing wear. Singer Sewing machine oil will keep those metals lubricated and cool enough to maintain their existence with less wear for longer.

oh right,i never knew that thanks

[lsphinx]

Great share! That I didn't know, I'd like to know the composition of general sewing oil, but I haven't find any info yet.

[tacomn]

i just really wouldn't use it at all... found out the hard way using it on longboard bearings which work for alittle bit but then just make it rust and eventually freeze. Would recommend something without a water base;

[Scope]

I would say that GT-85 is much better. I don't use WD40 anymore since, it's so inferior compared. But if i had to lube up a lock id use graphite powder.

[Engineer]

I've just noticed this post started in 2004, then suddenly was picked up on again.

Have you ever used an aerosol can of degreaser? It is a fine oil, often with alcohol in to clean the heavier oils from parts. This is similar to WD-40s action. It is fine for cleaning locks, or even getting gunk out of them prior to picking (PB Blaster is better, but I cannot get it over here in the UK).

HOWEVER, while it might feel "oily" on your hands, it will dry out over a few days. If the parts are not wiped dry, then some of the dissolved gunk will probably have been driven into the chambers the pins and springs live in. This is likely to make the lock even worse over time. If you really MUST spray something into a lock, then it should be disassembled if possible to be cleaned afterwards. If noy, at least flush it with a GOOD oil like one with Teflon, or sewing machine oil. I found my local Asda (they were a British group of stores, but were bought out by Wal-Mart), were doing £1 offers of aersol cans of lubricateing oil with Teflon - I cleared them out of stock and got some VERY odd looks from the people at the check out... They're pretty much all gone now, so I'm using sewing machine oil. I got a 1l. bottle of it for £5 at a trade place for sewing supplies.

Having worked on old sewing machines, I can tell you that it will collect dust and grit over time and while it doesn't ever quite[i] dry out, it does dry up somewhat. I find lubricating locks a slippery slope - Once you start, you will have to do it every year or so for as long as the lock is in use. Using a Teflon, or sewing machine oil might extend it to perhaps 5 years, but it is still a problem waiting to occur.

I personally discourage the use of graphite on locks, as if there are any films left behind from previous cleaning attempts, or a wet lubricant left over from the manufacturing, then it will form a paste and turn suprisingly solid over time as that dries out. It could arguably make the basis of an anti-bumping "paste" it gets that thick.

I see plenty of examples of locks on barricaded up houses in the bigger cities in NW England. Council workers WD-40 the locks to get them in, but then if nothing else is done inside the house for 5 years or so, the next time someone needs to get in, the locks are often having to be drilled out. Another complication is that these locks are often fitted in the "European" way, with the pins [i]at the bottom, not the top. This is something else I do not encourage people to do, as it seems to lead to lock failure sooner in my own personal experience - Although I am away of the theory that it is fine on external locks, as the rain washes the pins then... My own personal experience says this does not work that way though.

[Northwest1]

In the Uk, i use a product called GT85......its a penetrating oil with PTFE, used it for ages and never had a problem.....i find it way more effective than WD40 !!

[sitkahans]

the fact that there are 6 pages devoted to WD-40 is amazing
the fact that I read all 6 pages is also amazing !

[CastleBravo]

I use CLP for all my locks, and so far I haven't had any problems. I live right in Los Angeles, about 200 feet from the ocean, so all the padlocks on my gates are constantly filled with sand and very corrosive salty air. After about 2 months, there is a visible buildup of gunk on the side of the locks about 1/8 of an inch thick, which is very problematic if it gets in the keyway (or any part of the lock). CLP clears all of it off, and even after about 3 years regular masterlock No. 3 (no cover over the keyway etc.) work like new.

[meastabrook]

i use WD-40 to clean the lock then i just use mul-t-lock lube

[ufd538]

At our shop...we recommend wd 40. Yes I know it attract dirt...I spray my van locks out and let it drip out, I then get trails of dirt under the locks.

My general explanation to a customer is this...locksmiths can argue lubricant till the end of time, but it is like arguing democrat or republican, no one will stop arguing or change their mind....generally.

A few reasons for wd 40....One, it does clean....I know many people are caught up on lubricating...but how many locks do you see come lubricated from the factory?....Lock just need to be clean, and we suggest wd40 3-4 times a year...when the seasons change. Now we are in NE Ohio, so it is a cooler climate. Second reason we recommend it, is that most people already have wd 40, so the are more likely to use it if they already have it. We lean on that something is better than nothing. We don't negate teflon or silicone, and tell our customers if they prefer it then use it....after all, something is better than nothing. Another thing...wd, is inexpensive, being so, it is more likely to be used. We don't necessarily like graphite, because if any other spray is later used in the lock, it makes a goopy mess, and graphite can be over used.

We do keep houdini spray in our shop, which contains no oils, no silicone, no teflon and no graphite...nice stuff, and while I would prefer us to use that professionally, it comes back to price. not necessarily that it is so much more, but price as in this...as a road tech is bouncing from job to job, he is bound to forget this or that...lubricant is one of those things... a $2.50 can of wd is cheaper to lose than a $5 can of houdini. Especially if you have hardly used any of it. I know personally, I will usually use a can till it is gone...but sometimes i will go through 3 cans in a few days forgetting it here and there.

I think the most important things to remember is the locks don't necessarily need lubricant, just to be clean, as few locks come from the manufacturer with any lubricant. Number two....most lock lubrication problems come from the lack of any lubricant. Lets face it, if we were not into locks ourselves, most of us would never shoot anything into them. Whatever your favorite lubricant, the presence of said lubricant is better than no lubricant at all.

I keep meaning to do more research on this subject, and do some studies...several cylinders lubicated similar left our it the weather to see what is best, but I always seem to be busy and never get around to it....even if there were more hours in the day, I would probably still be too busy.

[Varjeal]

The main thing(s) to understand and agree on regardless of your political persuasion are these I think:

#1. WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
#2. WD IS a cleaner.
#3. Locks work best clean and dry.
#4. If a lock is to be lubricated, use a non-film non-oil based product.
#5. A lock should be cleaned before lubricated for best results.

[Poff]

I have noticed a lot of opinions for and against WD40 and just thought I would add my 2 cents. I have been a mechanic for 20 years and I never use WD40. I find it useless, it does not last very long and seems to collect dust and grime. It appears to be, basically, kerosene in a spray can. I have been using a product called Houdini Lock Lubricant and it seems to work well.