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master no.22 disassemble

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

master no.22 disassemble

Postby subnoizchild024 » 15 Jan 2007 14:51

i was going to take this lock apart just for my own curiosity, but i decided id take pictures and share it will all of u guys.

this is the first time ive made a guide so let me get some feedback on it.

master no. 22

Image


1st step: use a drimel tool and drimel down all four of the dimples

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All the dimples drimeled down:

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Step 2: start pulling the plates off. remove the spring and disk from 2nd plate.

Image

the 9th plate is what holds the shackle from coming out of the lock when it is open, so u have to pull the pins out some to get the 9th plate at the right angle to get it off.

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A few plates later ull get to the first lokcing mechanism. it is just a wire that gets pushed into a grove cut in the shakle. to get this plate off just pull the little wire thing back and lift.

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Then on the penultimate plate u will find the 2nd and last locking mechanism. just pull the wire back and lift.

Image

And there u have it

Image

Image
"KEY!! Dude I am the Key"
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Postby UWSDWF » 15 Jan 2007 15:05

that poor cheap warded padlock never had a chance against a big meanie with a vice and a dremel. :lol:
Image
DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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Postby JackNco » 15 Jan 2007 20:29

Very nice, ive been attacking a master No3 with a hand file to achieve the same sort of thing. ill post pics of that up when ive got the little sod open.

Nice job BTW

John
Image
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caliper

Postby raimundo » 16 Jan 2007 14:08

if you have a caliper, check the thickness of the lamina which have the spings attached and then check the thickness of the lamina which are used only for wards, on some of these locks the plates which are fitted with the springs are wider, in some cases this is even visible, and can help if you are outside the lock and want to know how deep the locking plate is inside of it. also, would have been nice to know how many lamina are between the two plates with the locking springs, this is the dimension that you need to make a double t pick for these locks, some of them have two lamina between the locking plates, and some have three so a set of doublecrossed t picks would come with two dimensions between the crossbars of the doublecrossed t
Your project is not done until you have used the data from the lamina width and etc to make a simple pass key pick.
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Postby subnoizchild024 » 16 Jan 2007 22:32

yea thats true. i do have a caliper so i will meausre out the laminas and let u know the what i find out. In the arieal view of the lock laid out all apart, if u go from left to right start from bottom and go up thats the order i pulled them off in, so u can see there were 3 plates in between the locking springs

-Andrew
"KEY!! Dude I am the Key"
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to make a pick

Postby raimundo » 17 Jan 2007 13:16

to make a pick, you will need a flat file, called a warding file, you will want to make a double T pick, with two crossbars and there should be room to pass the three lamina between the crossbars, there is no need for a centering point on the tip, just the crossbars, and the arms of the crossbars, should not be thicker than the lamina that had the sping in it.
I know that there are other locks that use only two lamina between the pieces with the locking springs.
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masterlock 22

Postby little_john » 29 Jan 2007 19:14

i made 2 t style picks out of hacksaw blades and taped them together(double thick) because it seemed like it wasnt thick enough
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22

Postby little_john » 29 Jan 2007 19:16

actually it was a double t
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