Newbie w/3 pin arrow lock

by **New York Novice** » 22 Jul 2004 22:47

Went to my local locksmith a he gave me an arrow 6 pin core for $5. So the first thing I did was pull all the pins out and started with 1 pin which opened as so as you touched it. Then went to 2 pins which was not that much harder. Now with 3 pins everything has crashed to a halt. I am using a super light touch on the wrench and a home-make small diamond and hook picks. I can't seem to get it open with any regularity. However when I pull out the pick I almost always hear the 3 pins snap back into position.

Any help would be great.
Mike

by **Hojo** » 22 Jul 2004 23:07

WEll do you have a key? and if so does it open with that? if not, when you put the third pin in did you mabey forget to put the driver pin in, so whats happening the spring is jamming in the hole? Or mabey you might have put in a security pin, I doubt this but meh, you should download my re-pinning video...here
http://www.arach.net.au/~cw.chookysworld.com/Re-Pin.rar
You will need winrar to extract the file, if you don't know what winrar is goto goole and search for it and goto the site with winrar in the url....

keep us informed

by **New York Novice** » 22 Jul 2004 23:16

With boring everyone with to much detail, yes there is a key and it did work. When I pull the pins out I made a newbie mistake and they shot all my desk and the floor. So right now the 3 pin sets are all I was able to find. I put the pins with the taper in first then the smaller pins and finally the springs. So the lock works 1 in 15-20 picks but I almost always here all 3 reset.

Thanks for your feedback.
Mike

by **randmguy** » 23 Jul 2004 7:15

If you're getting three distinct clicks when you release tension then you're most likely overpicking one of the pinstacks. Try picking them one at a time...Meaning apply tension and lift the first stack. When you feel that little give that means you've hit the shear line release tension and do the same thing for the second pin stack...repeat for the third. Those little shifts when you hit the shearline is what we're all talking about when we say "feedback".

by **Varjeal** » 23 Jul 2004 9:57

In addition to the above comments, you also may be applying too much tension and the pins are not really getting picked.

Go back to two pins for a short while. Pick one pin, and then gently lift that been so that you can sense the difference in feeling between when the pin has actually been picked and when it has not. Repeat this process with three pins. This gets dramatically more difficult as pins are added to the lock, so take your time and practice.

by **New York Novice** » 23 Jul 2004 11:06

thanks everyone for your input, I'm making a little better progress but I think I'll try going back to 2 pins for a while. Right now I'm using pins 1,2,3 is there a recommended choice on which pin holes to use when starting out?

thanks
Mike

by **Varjeal** » 23 Jul 2004 11:19

It doesn't really matter a whole lot. If you are comfortable with rekeying and have adequate tools to do so, go ahead and shift the positions around (just remember where you put the driver pins and springs :shock:

) for optimal practice.

Good questions, btw.

by **S3rratedSp00L** » 23 Jul 2004 11:30

I had a similar problem where I was false setting a pin all the time. If you let off on he tension a little and give a quick rake it will sometimes jar a pin or two loose to repick. Just restart if that doesn't help

As far as the pin positions, try them all! when you get good with the 2 pins being in the 1 and 2 position then move them to 2 and 3 or 3 and 4, etc.. ::) It feels wierd to have only 2 pins all the way back in the lock for me, but it sure helped me to judge the spacing better. Falcon should be much harder than a kwikset. (kwik pick, hehe) I had a couple of BEST SFIC and I think Falcon is a BEST clone or something right? A friend of mine has a couple Falcon drawer locks that I am gonna ask to try sometime

by **New York Novice** » 23 Jul 2004 12:35

Have the right tools for re-pinning?
I have just been sliding the thin piece of metal on top of the pin holes off and dumping everything out and the putting the pin with the point in first then the smaller pin and then the spring back in and then cover everything back up. What would be a better way?

by **CaptHook** » 23 Jul 2004 15:11

Alot of shells dont give the luxury of a pin retainer(the thin cap/piece of metal).
On the ones that dont, you have to remove the plug. This is accomplished by either using a plug follower, or letting the springs and drivers come out(they can then be replaced using a follower or the plug itself).
And to answer your question, a follower is a dowel the same diameter as the plug, that you use to push the plug out of the cylinder once the clip or cap has been removed, and the working key is inserted , or plug has been picked.
Chuck

by **New York Novice** » 23 Jul 2004 16:23

Thanks Capt Hook

Has the heat wave broken yet? I was in south east Alaska 2 weeks ago and the temp was higher than home in N.Y.C. Are most plugs the same diameter or do they all vary?

Mike

by **CaptHook** » 23 Jul 2004 16:41

There are a few different sized followers you normally see, .395, .495, .500, and .550.
The .395 is generally speaking, for small plugs such as rekeyable padlocks. The .495 is probably the most useful (will work on same shells as .500 also.) And the .550 which I have yet to have to rekey a plug this size.
And yes, the heat is leaving. Now we are just dealing with the smoke from the interior.
a word from Smokey the Bear..... "Only you can prevent forest fires...."
Now its a nice 60-65, cant wait till winter though.

Chuck

Newbie w/3 pin arrow lock

Newbie w/3 pin arrow lock

Hmmmm

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