accurate hook pick

[jimmythelock]

Hi all.

I would like to share with you all a method of finding, and more importantly keeping the pick on a pin without slipping (how many times have you slliped and had to start agian?), that you are trying to pick in a pin and tumbler.

I have found that if a small depression is made in the end of a hook pick (my prefered pick) it will stay on the end of a pin with less slipping. The images below show 2 of my picks a large and a smaller hook with such depresions.

I use the larger one for bigger padlocks. I find the smaller pick on the right is also great for restricted keyways as rather than lifting (or pushing) pins, I can twist the pick to follow the keyway which gives the same effect. The depressions make it possible for the pick to stay on the pin required.

The depressions also help when security pins are involved. When loosing the tension to set say a mushroom, I can set the pin without over easing the tension and loosing other set pins.

I hope this may help and inspire others, give it a go.

Jimmy.

PS the smallest measurements on the ruler are in mm with the large lines representing cm.

[Exodus5000]

Thats a pretty good idea. I've seen pictures before, I think on the navigator set that have picks similar to that. I couldn't figure out their function till now.

Good pick mod.

[Eagerpicker]

That's right, Exodus, the Navigator set calls it, I think, a diamond-hook pick. The LAB set, if I'm not mistaken, also features such a pick. But I must say that jimmythelock's alterations look even better, as the indentations are slightly deeper and broader. Good idea!

[Murph]

Hmmm, interesting, gonna do one myself. Great Job! Thanks for sharing.

[S3rratedSp00L]

Excellent idea! I did this by accident when I slipped while rounding the tip of a hook. I have also discovered that when making hooks where top of the tip is flat, try adjusting the angle! Little things like this really make a difference! This is what make pickmaking so fun! Nice hooks by the way! Keep up the good work! Got any more pics?

[Romstar]

The notches in the Navigator picks are not meant for holding pins. They are meant for picking the outer pin of a pin-in-pin dimple lock.

Those would be picks 5, 6 and 7. All of the other hooks are flat topped. As a matter of fact, in some cases a pick with that groove could hang on a pin long enough to mis-set another pin.

It is a nice idea, but it would require some getting used to.

Romstar

[Eagerpicker]

Romstar> Are you sure that goes for the number 5 pick? Numbers 6 & 7 I know about, but the 5 I do not see picking an outer pin without touching the inner one -- the indentation is minute and the inner pin would be lifted too, it seems to me.

Anyway, the 5 is the only one that more or less matches jimmythelock's modified picks and I do recall the Navigator set talking about a diamond-hook pick. This would seem to be it?

Eagerpicker

[Murph]

Made one like the one jimmythelock posted. It worked great! Picked a big 'ol Master in nothing flat! Next to my small diamond, it's my second favorite!
Way to go jimmythelock!

[Romstar]

If you want to see a "diamond-hook" look up the DeForest picks.

The drawback to these things, as I stated before is having one of them grab a a pin, and rattle the lock, or grab an already set pin and knock it loose.
Also, you have to consider that if you are letting the pick find the pins, then perhaps you aren't feeling as well as you should be. Picking is all about interpreting feedback.

Romstar

[S3rratedSp00L]

Yeah, when I think diamond-hook, I think Deforest as well! ...and being able to interpret feedback is so important that it is really hard to describe. Especially when dealing with multiple types of security pins in the same lock. Yow!

If your pick opens the lock for you, then it is a good pick! It's hard to judge how a pick might work for someone else... People's techniques being different and different picks/wrenches giving different feedback, etc... There really are a lot of variables! That is what makes this such a skill.

Every pick is it's own puzzle just like every lock... You have to adjust your picking to not only the lock, but the tools as well. A good attitude and a solid fitting tension wrench can't hurt either!

Keep experimenting with different shapes. Even a bad pick is good if you learn something from it.. Research and Development is what pick-making is all about! I assume that is why you are here, too!

As far as knocking around other pins goes, Romstar may be right... Some locks have smaller pins than others. I noticed that the pins from an American brand padlock were much thinner than the pins in a schlage, kwikset, EZ-set or any other standard dead-bolt that I have come across. This definitely will have an effect on picking somewhat. If you feel that you are not knocking on other pins, then you have developed your correct technique for that pick and lock. My advice would be to make some more shapes to compare it to and give us an update on what you think. Some more pics would be cool too

(hehe, sorry for the essay guys!)

[jimmythelock]

Thank you for the positive feedback everyone.

Regarding Romstar's concern about interference with other pins - I find that the head of the smaller of the 2 picks is too small to interfer with neighbouring pins in any of my locks, the head width is only 1.5mm wide

When I insert the pin with no tension, I run the pick along the pins to count and get a feel for the lock. The feedback I get is really good, I shall try to describe. I first start on the foremost pin with the depression on the pin tip (I know it is on the pin as I can see it is ) , I then start to insert the pick more, the pick suddenly and clearly drops. This is the gap between the first pin and the next, pushing a bit more I hit the next pin. Now, pushing a fraction more the pick rises and drops slightly. This is the pick 'climbing the pin and the slight drop is the depression fitting into the pin tip. I then repeat until I hit the back of the lock. I hope that was clear

As I previously said the smaller pick I use for restricted keyway where I push on the pins by following the shape of the keyway. And it is also great for mushroom pins.

The larger of the two pick is used for heavier padlock where a fimer push is needed.

I do take the point though that on smaller locks that an overlap of the pick head may occur. I would just used a scaled down version to fit the situation.

Thank you all again

[technik]

the navigator pickset picks you uys are talking about are for Multi-Loks as Romstar said, not for your purpose. Great idea though, im impressed

[Guitar_J]

This type of pick is mentioned in "Visual Guide to Lockpicking"

[Eagerpicker]

Lockpicks.com now features the Navigator set with a breakdown of what each pick was designed for. Something that's kept me guessing for awhile, so good news there.

Quote from http://www.lockpicks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=265:

No. 1,2,8,9,12,13,14 are for normal cylinder locks
No. 4 broken key extractor
No. 5,6,7,10 are for picking Multi-Lock brand locks
No. 3 is for Spool Driver Pin locks
No. 11 is for Disc locks
No. 15 is a tool for feeling discs.

These picks are the best of both spring steal and stainless. They are nickel plated, so you have the protection and the flexibility of both. Our special designed handles make pick picking a comfort. This set comes with a large pick case which can be worn on the belt very easily. Our unique design Navigator pick set contains 20 the most popular picking instruments and include all styles of rake, hook, riffle, ball, diamond-hook, diamond, broken key extractor and a special design feeler. Also notice that pick set includes the tension wrench for tulip door knobs standard. This set also includes several picks for European locks.

Anyhow. You're the experts. [/url]

[Eagerpicker]

Come to think of it, the number 3 pick is a double ball, a.k.a. snowman. This would be a Spool Driver Pin pick?

Anyone?