Bump keys and lock bumping finally have their own area. Discuss making bump keys, proper bumping techniques, and countermeasures here.
by blown » 22 Aug 2006 20:58
Hello there.. I tried my hand at creating a bump key with an Arrow set (AR1). I had a spare key that I tried filing to "999" levels as well as had an AR1 key cut to spec by a machine. I have been unable to bump this lock and wondered if I could get some feedback on these keys. *NOTE: I have also been unable to pick this lock as well, it is one of the only locks I have not been able to pick and I've devoted HOURS split over a few weeks to no avail. It is a personal issue now, I hope you understand
 [/img]
**PS: Now that I see the origional key w/filing (above) I notice how awful of a spacing job I did, other than needing to even out the valleys, are the peaks at correct height?
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blown
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by globallockytoo » 23 Aug 2006 0:01
Not being an expert at bumping myself...i might suggest that you attempt to widen the spacing of each cut....and then file down to about a 91/2 depth...
You might have better success...good luck
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by mcm757207 » 23 Aug 2006 0:12
Be sure you filed enough off the tip, it may be hitting the tailpiece and not striking the pins properly.
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by Shrub » 23 Aug 2006 11:47
Deburr your keys before putting them in any locks for a start,
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by assweasel » 26 Aug 2006 3:26
This question is often asked when making bumpkeys. How high should the peaks be?
Answer it does not matter how high the peaks are as long as the slope hits the pin. The Peaks can be full height but good luck getting the key out then.
The valley is what is important. It must be deep enough and wide enough so that the pin sits in it at rest. Meaning it isn't being pushed upwards by the valley walls.
You want to make the striking slopes to be of the same pitch and to start at the same distance from the centre of the valley.
A real good way to make a bumpkey is to get a cylinder remove all the pins and springs.
Get a drill and a small drill bit. One that just fits into the pinholes or is only slightly bigger. Insert the drill bit into a pin hole and get your depth by lowering it to one of the key guides. Now tape the drill bit where it is at the top of the pinhole.
You now know how far to drill.
Put the key in to the cylinder and tape it in there good and tight. Insert the bit into the drill and drill till the tape just touches the top of the cylinder. repeat for each pin hole.(using a drill press works best but by hand is fine.)
You now have the valleys in the correct places and hopefully at the right depths.
Take the key out and either grind off most of the really high peaks or just file them down. You can even use a dremel cut off to lower this excess metal quickly.
Leave enough metal for peaks but not a whole lot. Reload the cylinder with pins and springs and shave off just a very small amount of the shoulder. leave the tip for now.
Put the key back in and by pushing the key forward and looking into the pinholes you can tell which slopes need filing. You want all the pins to move upwards at the same time so if a pin is moving before the others you need to file that slope down a bit until it and all pins move upwards at same time.
Ok now for the shoulder again. You want to file the shoulder down enough so that the key will go in and raise the pins halfway up the slopes.
For the tip? Remember that the tip is actually the striking slope of the pin that is the deepest in the lock. Shave off enough so that the back pin will sit nicely and raise when the key goes in just like all the others.
once you have made a key like this you will find just how easy it is to bump. no more banging away. Done right it takes only a light tap or 2 to work.
This method doesn't work for all keyways but is a good starter on how to make the bumpkeys and will teach you the necessary elements that make a fine precision bumpkey. These will serve you well when you move on to making other bumpkeys.
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by linty » 26 Aug 2006 6:56
it may not be the keys if you've tried machine cut with no luck either. there is a technique to bumping that is hard to figure out with nobody to show you.
i didn't manage to bump anything until i got a kebump from omicron
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by Delta » 26 Aug 2006 7:33
The main problem with bumpn00bs is their technique.
[hint] Watch toool videos and anything that contains bumping [/hint]
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by Polkaroo » 29 Aug 2006 22:46
I definitely have to agree that technique is a major part, along with a proper bump key.
Technique is critical but I don't think that having a proper bump hammer is terribly important since i've managed to successfully bump cylinders using the following: screwdriver, hair brush, hair comb, a stick, KEBump Hammer, and anything else i can find.
Surprisingly I found the comb worked the best for me, followed by the brush, screwdriver, then the kebump hammer.
I taught myself how by watching the videos I downloaded from TOOOL. Bumping is like riding a bike, once you learn the technique....
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by DBS » 12 Sep 2006 13:18
blown wrote:Hello there.. I tried my hand at creating a bump key with an Arrow set (AR1). I had a spare key that I tried filing to "999" levels as well as had an AR1 key cut to spec by a machine. I have been unable to bump this lock and wondered if I could get some feedback on these keys. *NOTE: I have also been unable to pick this lock as well, it is one of the only locks I have not been able to pick and I've devoted HOURS split over a few weeks to no avail. It is a personal issue now, I hope you understand    [/img] **PS: Now that I see the origional key w/filing (above) I notice how awful of a spacing job I did, other than needing to even out the valleys, are the peaks at correct height?
Not all locks can be bumped. In general if it won't open with a pick gun it isn't going to open all that well with bumping either. Arrow is a pretty good lock. A lock with good tolerances keyed at or near MACS can be difficult or impossible to bump. Locks with all or mostly shallow cuts on their key can also be hard to bump because the pins must be bumped up a long way to clear the shear.
As far as picking it does it have spool pins? if it does the plug will start to turn as though you have set the pins but it will just hang up and not do anything even though all the pins feel set. Try pushing all the pins all the way up, then bind the plug with a lot of tension, gradually back off the tension while gently raking the pins down. This way the pins vibrate DOWN to the shear line and the spool pins will be trapped on top before the spool portion of them jams the lock.
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DBS
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by ghostwave » 16 Sep 2006 21:34
Has anyone else had this problem with bumping: Purchased set of machine cut 999 keys and started with brand new Schlage deadbolt cylinder ($5 at HD). Shaved the tip and the shoulder of the Schlage key according to TOOOL and after 15 or 20 tries got my first 'unlock.' Started to improve until I was able to open it quite easily after 4 or 5 hits (found a long, plastic handled bread knife with some nice flex to it to be the best hammer). Then suddenly after 10 openings or so, the lock has become unbumpable. Nothing works, harder hits, softer hits., less torque on key, more torque etc. The real key works and nothing seems wrong with the lock. Please help, this is my first bit of mucking about with locks and it is driving me crazy.......tia
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by Polkaroo » 17 Sep 2006 15:44
Does the cylinder still open with the proper key? The spring could be jammed or something like that that is prevening it from being bumped.
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by scampdog » 17 Sep 2006 16:35
Hey assweasel,i havent heared,of the way you described to cut the valleys using a drill bit,sounds really practical.i'm going to try it out. thanks a lot mate
there's no such thing as gravity.The earth SUCKS!!
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by elfnyc » 19 Sep 2006 2:13
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