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bump key version 2 will it work?!?!?!

Bump keys and lock bumping finally have their own area. Discuss making bump keys, proper bumping techniques, and countermeasures here.

do you think it will work?

Poll ended at 26 Jul 2007 8:55

yes
1
7%
no
14
93%
 
Total votes : 15

bump key version 2 will it work?!?!?!

Postby wadded2 » 26 Jun 2007 8:55

last night i thought of this while i was going to bed
the idea is that you key a key all at 1111(1)
tahn in between you cut grooves in between the part where the pin rests on. you than slowly pull out the key therefore allowing the pins to slowly drop (along the angle of the key) you apply torsion and as the pins dorp far enough down they will bind when they get into the right position

plz tell me if this would work i really hope it does.

i would try it but i cant get my hands on any blank keys
i'm a noob to lockpicking, be kind and try to support me
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Postby ChaosSpear » 26 Jun 2007 9:42

well, if you have security pins (is that what they are called?) they could get stuck and false align, but otherwise it sounds like it could work
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Postby Phatphish » 26 Jun 2007 13:05

This is unlikely to work.

  1. There would not be enough room between cuts for a slope that would allow easy key insertion/removal. (See MACS rules)
  2. Also once you have applied tension at least one pinstack is going to bind, so as you remove or insert key the pin will not drop to its set position.
  3. You also have no control over which stack will bind first, so for instance,If a chamber that had pins that corresponded to a maximum depth cut also was the chamber that would normally bind first (due to tolerance differences) by the time you had removed the key enough for this stack to reach its shearline, then the other stacks cut at lesser depths would already be past the shearline.


I do think however, it would be a great key for a lock pinned 11111 :wink:
<')))><.There are no problems, just situations that require solutions.><((('>
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Postby Raccoon » 26 Jun 2007 13:20

This method is known as "reverse picking".

You raise all the pins above the sheer line, apply tension, and allow them to drop when releasing tension. Usually, additional picking or raking is required. It's not all that successful of a method.
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Postby dmux » 26 Jun 2007 16:06

i dont think it would work, you would have to hit the key so hard, and what if there were a lot of 9 pins in it, they would lift up and get jammed in the plugg, or they may (but you would have to hit the key super hard) go all the way up and the springs would have to compress all the way to fit the driver and key pins in the housing
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Postby unbreakable » 26 Jun 2007 16:10

dmux wrote:i dont think it would work, you would have to hit the key so hard, and what if there were a lot of 9 pins in it, they would lift up and get jammed in the plugg, or they may (but you would have to hit the key super hard) go all the way up and the springs would have to compress all the way to fit the driver and key pins in the housing


You should reread his method, he does not intend to hit the key...
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Postby wadded2 » 26 Jun 2007 17:25

it worked :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:
i had to cut the grooves deeper than 999999 but it worked
it wouldn't even go in first but than i figured out that if you put the frond and back at a regular groove angle and pulled it out fast it would come out

only one thing you have to ploish the sides (andy of u who r carvers no what this is like) for the rest of you polish with a felt disc or leather strop pad w honing compund ($9 @ lee valley) one u can see u'r reflection its polished enough so the pins wont stick on it

make sure the grooves meet at a perfect v not a u otherwise they will stick in the bottom
i'm a noob to lockpicking, be kind and try to support me
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Postby blake1803 » 26 Jun 2007 19:38

Interesting. Are you able to post a picture of the key?
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Postby Shrub » 26 Jun 2007 19:41

Wadded2 before you go any further i have to politely ask you to stop useing leet/text speak, this seriously pisses us off, use full words like 'see' and not c, 'you are' and not u'r,

Thankyou.
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Postby Raccoon » 26 Jun 2007 19:49

a video of this would be appreciated.
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Postby Squelchtone » 27 Jun 2007 0:00

wadded2 wrote:it worked :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:
i had to cut the grooves deeper than 999999 but it worked
it wouldn't even go in first but than i figured out that if you put the frond and back at a regular groove angle and pulled it out fast it would come out

only one thing you have to ploish the sides (andy of u who r carvers no what this is like) for the rest of you polish with a felt disc or leather strop pad w honing compund ($9 @ lee valley) one u can see u'r reflection its polished enough so the pins wont stick on it

make sure the grooves meet at a perfect v not a u otherwise they will stick in the bottom


so you've made a 10 10 10 10 10 key not a 1 1 1 1 1 key.. a blank is 00000, then you start cutting deeper valleys. 999 is typically the lowest, but you can do a 10 10 10 and it will still most of the time.

so is your key barely cut, or is it cut even deeper than a 999 key?

please post a pic, I'm curious,

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Re: bump key version 2 will it work?!?!?!

Postby Shrub » 27 Jun 2007 5:40

wadded2 wrote:last night i thought of this while i was going to bed
the idea is that you key a key all at 1111(1)
tahn in between you cut grooves in between the part where the pin rests on. you than slowly pull out the key therefore allowing the pins to slowly drop (along the angle of the key) you apply torsion and as the pins dorp far enough down they will bind when they get into the right position

plz tell me if this would work i really hope it does.

i would try it but i cant get my hands on any blank keys


I dont think he knows which part of a key the pins rest on otherwise he describes a straight flat bit of steel or brass as a 999 key with 101010 cuts inbetween the cuts leaves a blank with niks in the wrong spacings,


I suspect what hes actually doign is useing a bum key to reverse pick like racc said but i have to ask what happens if the last pin doesnt set? you will be there for ever with a key thats not lifting the last pin properly,

Fair idea but i would suggest a pick to be better used as its more universal, forget and ignore bum keys as they are for people who cant pick,
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Postby wadded2 » 27 Jun 2007 9:01

ok waht you do is you make a key at 11111 than in between the areas where the pins rest you cut groves that would be the equivilant to 11,11,11,11,11 you than push the key all the way in and apply torsion and slowly pull out the key

i'll try to borrow a camera to take some pics and than send them 2 u guys

hope that clears up my previous post
i'm a noob to lockpicking, be kind and try to support me
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Postby CVScam » 27 Jun 2007 19:57

It sounds like reverse picking to me also. What brand of lock did you use this new bump key on?
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Postby wadded2 » 28 Jun 2007 11:41

a schlage lock
i'm also trying to make another type of key where you grind it all the wqay down to 99999 (the whole part so it is flat) than u solder on small pieces of spring steelwhich are bent so that when you insert it the spring steel will push the pin up to the right hight and than just bend once the pin binds (the steel is in a inverted v so that you can pull the key out
i'm a noob to lockpicking, be kind and try to support me
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