Making Keys for Antique Sargent & Co. Door Locks

[Squelchtone]

Do the edges of your deadbolts have any numbers stamped into them? That's the key code.. you could look for already cut keys on ebay as Bill suggested.

There are numbers on the end plates of the locks (I don't know the correct term), which are visible when the lock is installed, but they don't seem to correspond to the key required; for example, there are some pairs of like numbered locks with vastly different levers inside.

Also, search as I might, I haven't been able to find keys of any description, blank or pre-cut, that reference these locks.

Thanks,

jv

In this case a trip to a local locksmith shop with one of your locks in hand may do the trick. Have them make you a key, pay the $25 for it and then you can get more blanks and make keys or have the shop make more for you.

I'll PM you a local shop near you that may be a good place to visit.
Squelchtone

[jviss]

I checked the Sargent catalog you supplied, thank you! One thing, is that I believe mine pre-date the one shown. The catalog shows the 5234B, "Easy Spring" while mine don't have this cast into the case, except I do have one Easy Spring lock. Also, on page 273 they say key no. 511, while on the next page it calls out no. 911; I think the difference is bronze and nickel plated steel, respectively.

I'm determined to make my own keys, assuming I can find a blank that can be modified adequately.

[GWiens2001]

I checked the Sargent catalog you supplied, thank you! One thing, is that I believe mine pre-date the one shown. The catalog shows the 5234B, "Easy Spring" while mine don't have this cast into the case, except I do have one Easy Spring lock. Also, on page 273 they say key no. 511, while on the next page it calls out no. 911; I think the difference is bronze and nickel plated steel, respectively.

I'm determined to make my own keys, assuming I can find a blank that can be modified adequately.

More likely to be later than the catalog. After it has been in use a while, they are less likely to tout the benefits of having the "Easy Spring".

Gordon

[jviss]

I checked the Sargent catalog you supplied, thank you! One thing, is that I believe mine pre-date the one shown. The catalog shows the 5234B, "Easy Spring" while mine don't have this cast into the case, except I do have one Easy Spring lock. Also, on page 273 they say key no. 511, while on the next page it calls out no. 911; I think the difference is bronze and nickel plated steel, respectively.

I'm determined to make my own keys, assuming I can find a blank that can be modified adequately.

More likely to be later than the catalog. After it has been in use a while, they are less likely to tout the benefits of having the "Easy Spring".

Gordon

I don't know about that, Gordon. The one "Easy Spring" lock I found in my house has a higher number than the non-Easy Spring locks. And the one in the catalog that's similar has a "B" suffix, while mine have no suffix, indicating the "B" is a later revision.

Meanwhile, I found this wonderful resource online, from 1904, "Locks and Builders
Hardware, A Hand Book for Architects BY HENRY R. TOWNE

(By the way, this is OCR'd, and therefore searchable!)

https://www.erbutler.com/pdf/research/reference/towne-1904-locks_and_builders_hardware.pdf from which I quote:


"EASY SPRING—A term used to designate the construction of a knob lock
in which two springs are employed, one of which (the easy spring) acts only
on the latch bolt, while the other acts directly or indirectly on the knob
spindle. Motion of the latch bolt is opposed by the easy spring, while
both the springs give resistance to rotation of the knobs, thus giving a
lively action to the knobs while permitting the door to close easily. The
same action may also be obtained with a single spring if suitably connected with the related parts of the lock. See page 10, piece 24."

So, the term is probably not trademarked by Sargent, it's a generic term, and it predates the building of my house, but likely not the patent dates on my older locks.

[jviss]

My first batch of prospective blanks arrive today, I'm so excited, like a kid on Christmas morning! Ha, ha. If the pin diameter is useable and there's enough bit to trim down to what I need I should be all set.

They are steel, "built-up" blanks. Once I find my tools (I just moved) I will use layout dye/paint and then mark the bits then for trimming. I think the warding and lever gates follow a regular sequence so I should be able to make some gauges and templates so I can be more consistent. I have a lot of keys to cut! Well, at least 12. I'm hoping to find another batch of like blanks on eBay.

I'm hoping that not only the pin is a good diameter, and the bit has enough material, but that the throating, i.e., "neck" dimension is good, or at lease too tight; it would be tough to shorten it.

The procedure I'm thinking of, and posting here for your input or criticism, is:
- trim bit length to fit
- test bolt actuation with lever removed
- trim inside width of bit to fit if necessary (throat, neck)
- trim outside bit width to fit lock case
- cut warding notch in bit edges (both edges)
- gradually cut notch in bit end for lever, testing as you go
- once this is done for one lever, do the math and calculate the necessary notch depths for the levers in the series
- create a table of warding notch locations and lever notch depths for all wards and levers

When I'm done cutting I will deburr (wire wheel?), polish them up, and nickel plate them. My son, the PhD mechanical engineer, has done some home hobbyist electroplating and anodizing, so he can help.

[billdeserthills]

What dye, paint? In the long ago locksmiths used soot to cover a blank, these days I like a Sharpie marker. It will rub off wherever a tumbler is touching so you'll know where to file. Do you have a warding file?

https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/ ... _id=118562


https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/ ... _id=118570

[jviss]

What dye, paint? In the long ago locksmiths used soot to cover a blank, these days I like a Sharpie marker. It will rub off wherever a tumbler is touching so you'll know where to file.

Machinist's layout dye. It's used to coat metal so you can scribe marks showing where to cut.

I already marked the bit length with a fine point Sharpie, worked fine. The fine tip is about the width of a fine hacksaw kerf.

Do you have a warding file?

No, no specifically, but i must have a thousand files!

https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/ ... _id=118562


https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/ ... _id=118570

Thanks.

[jviss]

For anyone following this thread, since this is a lockpicking forum, I thought it would be fun to try to pick some of these locks. I think it will probably be easy, since there's no barrel and curtain, and only one lever, and no false gates.

Now to make a couple of tools....

One to engage the bolt;
One to raise the lever.