Aligning Mortise Sash lock with Receiver

[crusaderman]

Just wondered if anyone has any good tips on aligning the Bolt and Latch on a Mortise lock with the Keep in the door frame? I've tried masking tape and tried marking 4 horizontal lines from the inside edge of the door, then extending this around to the front face. I then extend these lines (with the door closed) across onto the door frame. The secondary lines which mark the top and bottom of the Bolt and the Latch on the frame are then extended around to the inside of the door frame. This part works ok but because the tolerances in clearance between the Bolts/Latches and the receiver plate holes are so tight, it's quite difficult to position these hole horizontally, It's also virtually impossible to see how the marry up or exactly where the interference is when the door is closed.

So I wondered if there might be some "magic" solution to this. Maybe there is something that could be stuck onto the door frame (say for instance Blu-Tak) so that when the door is closed an indentation of the Bolt and Latch is left on it?

I only ask this as yesterday it took me the best part of an hour filing away the edges of the holes in the receiver plate before the lock finally engaged.

Any suggestion would be welcomed.

Thanks

Steve

[Squelchtone]

toothpaste on the bolt works for me usually, or Sharpie on the bolt and then extended it so it hits the wood several times while still wet. easier to wipe off the toothpaste than the marker as it will dry on the bolt surface.

[mseifert]

This is going to sound weird, but .. Coat the ends of the bolt with lipstick or something similar in consistency .. Actuate the latch into the wood of the door frame .. The lipstick will leave a perfect outline of the bolt on the frame .. Wipe the lipstick off the bolt when your done..

[crusaderman]

Thanks for your replies guys:) most helpful. Will try these methods next time. (Lets hope the wife doesn't notice tho!)

[cledry]

Lipstick, but if you can slide a business card in-between the door and jamb you don't need anything else.

[Divinorum]

I have used the lipstick method several times, it works wonders. I had a door knob that would not latch properly and I was having some trouble figuring out what what did not line up. A little lipstick on the latch, closed the door, and it pointed out exactly what did not line up. Plus it's very easy to clean. I will have to try toothpaste next time I install a deadbolt. I have heard of people using a dab of caulk on the center of the bolt and then turning the thumb turn slowly until the dab transfers to the door frame.

[Raymond]

Does the door you are installing into have a lip on both sides like the jam on one side and a latch protector on the other? Remove the latch protector to provide access to the space between.

If not, use a very small curved pick to mark the top, bottom and across the front of the bolt. The pick can be an old broken pick with the barest bend at the tip. Insert it flat and mark away. Then open the door and lay the strike plate hole over your scratches and mark the inside of the strike plate hole and the screw holes. =Perfection. This works very well on doors with steel frames that are too tight to put on a strike plate. With the hole perfectly aligned you can smoothly cut an accurate strike hole in the frame. Drill many small holes along the lines and then "connect the dots." File the edges until there are no splinters to catch on little curious fingers. Also keep the edge that will touch the bolt especially smooth to prevent scraping. Also try a plastic door wedge to gain a little space if the door and frame are too tight.

The most difficult jobs are having to move a misalligned strike as the is nothing left on the surface to mark. A large strip of masking tape and the lipstick are about the only smooth way. I usually end up going to a larger strike plate to cover all the original mess.

You can remove the lock bolt and put a small pencil in through the hole to make a circle on the frame. Then guesstimate.

[Raymond]

You can also make a depth gauge from a piece of 1/4 inch, thick wall tubing. (I used an old diamond core holesaw shaft) Drill and tap one side for a small screw. Insert a piece of flat windshield wiper reenforcement steel.

Close the door and try to move the bolt out. Push the face of the tube against the face of the frame and slide the steel probe in until it touches the bolt. Tighten the screw. Release the bolt, open the door and re-apply the gauge to its original location. The tip of the steel will be the exact edge of the bolt. Cut your hole accordingly. Height can be measured by other means.

[cledry]

Adjustable square and a tape measure will do it too.

[crusaderman]

Hey thanks for all the excellent tips you guys. I'm sure these methods will also help many others who are new to this kind of work!

I especially like the "depth gauge" method with the tube and wiper reinforcement strip which gives a very accurate position of the bolt on the door frame when the door is actually closed.

So once again, many thanks.

Steve

[mhole]

As you're in the UK, try this.

Most decent quality deadlocks in the UK have anti saw rollers in the bolt, usually visible as holes in the ends of the bolt. I tap a little graphite powder into the holes, then shot the bolt across with the door closed. Voila - nice clear circles on the frame.