Home made 6 lever pancake key

[Gantry]

Well, about a month ago I posted taking apart and cleaning a 6 lever pancake lock and now I've finely got around to making a key for it. It's NOT pretty BUT it works great. So far I've found the best & CHEAPEST thing to use it a Simpson strong tie bracket (used for building and can be found in most hardware stores). So I thought I'd share a few pictures and some "pro's & con's" ....

First the "Pro's" - the brackets only cost .99 cents (so cheep!) and you can get 7 - 8 "keys" out of one piece. Their also the right thickness, which saves a lot of time and their made of steel which
may take a little more work to shape but works much better than using aluminum stock bar (the first thing I tried to make the keys)

The "Con's" - not a original key or even an org. key blank (my feeling is one working "home made" key is better than no key). Not pretty! lets face it not the best looking key. The bracket has nail
holes in it so you have to make you're key around the holes in the bracket! Yes, if I could find stock steel the right thickness and cheep I'd rather use that.

If anyone has a source for premade 6 lever key blanks please let me know (I have seen some org. on the web but there $14 or so) I have 11 of these locks which I'm made keys for 8 of them so if
anyone has a simpler, cleaner way to make these please let me know!

Any how guys, just wanted to share my update to the lock from last month....

[GWiens2001]

Glad you are returning these locks to service. I’d agree that a handmade key is better than no key at all.

However, you may want to check out Lauren’s threads. In one or two, he discusses a tool to pick/decode these locks, and in others a tool that just decides the lock. This allows you to make keys without taking the lock apart, which diminishes the collector value of the lock.

Keep up the good work!

Gordon

[tpark]

For blanks, I got some off of eBay - I don't know if they have any now, but keep looking, they show up from time to time. I decode these locks using thin brass wire and go in between the levers to find the gates. Model train supply places have this wire.. I've also made keys from safe deposit blanks - the brass blanks are easier to work with.

[Gantry]

However, you may want to check out Lauren’s threads. In one or two, he discusses a tool to pick/decode these locks, and in others a tool that just decides the lock. This allows you to make keys without taking the lock apart, which diminishes the collector value of the lock.

Keep up the good work!

Gordon


Gordon I couldn't agree more with you. When I buy these locks my first "go to" item is a home made "impression-er" :



If that doesn't work, I then try the "feeler" wire using a thin wire with a small bend and a digital caliber for the correct depth setting. And as a last resort (or if the lock is malfunctioning) I dissemble in the most non-destructive I can.

[nathanbonstein]

t131 blanks from ilco should still be available thru a supplier

[stratmando]

I have the Yale Push lock. Tension is by pulling on shackle, I may have that pancake lock somewhere burried. Curious if you could try pulling on shackle and push pins up one by one, in binding order, just as you would pick a pin lock, false gates would make tougher, but may not have any?
Thanks

[Gantry]

I have the Yale Push lock. Tension is by pulling on shackle, I may have that pancake lock somewhere burried. Curious if you could try pulling on shackle and push pins up one by one, in binding order, just as you would pick a pin lock, false gates would make tougher, but may not have any?
Thanks

Stratmando, I'm not really sure if that would work or not... When doing the first method I mentioned (use the 6 pin impression-er) you do have to tension the shackle at the same time. I guess with the right tool, some really good eye sight (the levers are thin and deep in the lock) and luck it could work...?

[GWiens2001]

I have the Yale Push lock. Tension is by pulling on shackle, I may have that pancake lock somewhere burried. Curious if you could try pulling on shackle and push pins up one by one, in binding order, just as you would pick a pin lock, false gates would make tougher, but may not have any?
Thanks

Stratmando, I'm not really sure if that would work or not... When doing the first method I mentioned (use the 6 pin impression-er) you do have to tension the shackle at the same time. I guess with the right tool, some really good eye sight (the levers are thin and deep in the lock) and luck it could work...?

It does work. Use the technique myself.

Gordon

[Lauren]

I mostly write on Facebook these days, but I found the best steel to be made from circular saw blades. You will probably have to sand the blank down to .050" or less. Previously, I had been using spring steel, which is harder to drill. The saw blade material is a little softer, easier to drill, and bit cuts are easier to make, while still maintaining good temper on the steel.

[Squelchtone]

I mostly write on Facebook these days, but I found the best steel to be made from circular saw blades. You will probably have to sand the blank down to .050" or less. Previously, I had been using spring steel, which is harder to drill. The saw blade material is a little softer, easier to drill, and bit cuts are easier to make, while still maintaining good temper on the steel.

Lauren! Don't be a stranger, we love your work!

Thanks for popping by!
Squelchtone

[Lauren]

I took the time to chime in. Certain countries are blocked from accessing this site. I would write more if I could.

[Squelchtone]

I took the time to chime in. Certain countries are blocked from accessing this site. I would write more if I could.

yeah we do that because of the crazy amount of spam from particular countries, I wish I could leave it open.

If you have a static or semi static IP, I can white list you, so email me to squelchtone @ lockpicking101.com and I'll take care of it.

Squelchtone

[stratmando]

However, you may want to check out Lauren’s threads. In one or two, he discusses a tool to pick/decode these locks, and in others a tool that just decides the lock. This allows you to make keys without taking the lock apart, which diminishes the collector value of the lock.

Keep up the good work!

Gordon


Gordon I couldn't agree more with you. When I buy these locks my first "go to" item is a home made "impression-er" :



If that doesn't work, I then try the "feeler" wire using a thin wire with a small bend and a digital caliber for the correct depth setting. And as a last resort (or if the lock is malfunctioning) I dissemble in the most non-destructive I can.

Old Post, I bet 6 small Allen wrenches could work well, you would have something to push and pull with. Center 2 would make a v, outer 2 handles? would go straight out each side, #2 and #5 would be an inverted "v".