Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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I got the lock functioning and got some help to set the combo to one number with the change key. I was unable to get any further help on how to set all 4 numbers.
As it sets right now, I dial it left to 50 then to the right to release the bolt. I know how to use the change key but I'm having trouble finding instructions on how to set the numbers on all 4 wheels. Anyone have this info or can point me to it?
Photos of the lock box and wheels in the post above. Thanks!
Dial the lock 5 times to the Left to 50, but do not turn the dial the other way to drop the fence into the gates. Insert change key and turn it 90 degrees or until it stops turning. (make sure back cover is on, do not insert key into wheels with the cover off.
Then follow these instructions, and stop before the last step when he turns to the right to Open. Turn back and remove change key, then dial your safe combination, including the last turn to drop the fence into the gates and see if it opens (try the videos numbers as a test)
joshp14 wrote:Dang man, thanks for the lightning response!
Are there any numbers or number ranges to avoid when setting the combination?
if you open your back cover and turn the dial and watch the brass drive cam wheel, what number is the dial when your lever arm nose wants to drop into the corresponding shape in the drive cam? stay out of that area for your last number +/- 10 numbers on each side. That's my own math, someone else may correct what I just said.
so if your safe mechanism opens when you do your last turn to 40 as an example, don't set last number of combination to anywhere between 30 and 50.
joshp14 wrote:Dang man, thanks for the lightning response!
Are there any numbers or number ranges to avoid when setting the combination?
if you open your back cover and turn the dial and watch the brass drive cam wheel, what number is the dial when your lever arm nose wants to drop into the corresponding shape in the drive cam? stay out of that area for your last number +/- 10 numbers on each side. That's my own math, someone else may correct what I just said.
so if your safe mechanism opens when you do your last turn to 40 as an example, don't set last number of combination to anywhere between 30 and 50.
Kenneth_V wrote:Don’t know if I need to post this but....
Do not close the door and lock it until you have tested your combination MANY times with the door open!!!
Haha yes a great reminder.
I did the procedure above and set it to exactly 10, 20, 30, 40. After messing with it for quite awhile trying to figure out why it wouldn't open, I determined that it is actually set to 10, 17, 30.5 and 40.5
Does this mean that the wheels aren't functioning properly during the change process?
Kenneth_V wrote:Don’t know if I need to post this but....
Do not close the door and lock it until you have tested your combination MANY times with the door open!!!
Haha yes a great reminder.
I did the procedure above and set it to exactly 10, 20, 30, 40. After messing with it for quite awhile trying to figure out why it wouldn't open, I determined that it is actually set to 10, 17, 30.5 and 40.5
Does this mean that the wheels aren't functioning properly during the change process?
If you have movable fly's on the wheels, you might have a stuck fly on wheel 2. Have you taken the wheel pack apart to clean old gunked up grease off them and inspected each wheel to verify that things that should move freely move freely?
I don't know how to troubleshoot wheel slip on an old like this, aside from checking that fly's are able to move. The purpose of wheel fly's is so you can dial the lock Left Right Left or Right Left Right and the thickness of the fly does not change the number on the dial vs the position of the wheel on the hub. This also allows for using all the numbers on the dial so you don't have obvious dead zones that are not able to be dialed in the number space that the pins and fly's occupy.
Squelchtone wrote: If you have movable fly's on the wheels, you might have a stuck fly on wheel 2. Have you taken the wheel pack apart to clean old gunked up grease off them and inspected each wheel to verify that things that should move freely move freely?
I don't know how to troubleshoot wheel slip on an old like this, aside from checking that fly's are able to move. The purpose of wheel fly's is so you can dial the lock Left Right Left or Right Left Right and the thickness of the fly does not change the number on the dial vs the position of the wheel on the hub. This also allows for using all the numbers on the dial so you don't have obvious dead zones that are not able to be dialed in the number space that the pins and fly's occupy.
I did have it apart and cleaned everything up. Here is what the wheels look like when I had it apart and was cleaning everything. I don't see any moveable fly's. I really have no idea how it works inside those wheels! Clutches of some sort?
Do you know what a fidget spinner looks like where you hold the central bearing and spring the outer part around with another finger? Do that to your wheels to make sure they are locked and are not slipping. the change key basically unlocks a little lever arm ratchet inside the wheel sandwich so that the outer wheel and gate and the inner hub can turn and then get mated together again when the change key is turned back and the lever arm ratching mechanism can latch onto the teeth of the inner hub.
I wonder wheel 2 is loose, not locked properly, or has something broken inside allowing for some slop to occur when dialing the combination.
You may find this video useful
This post by our very own GWiens2001 has so many awesome photos, all the way at the and it shows some with the wheels in locked and unlocked positions. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=62460
Squelchtone wrote:Do you know what a fidget spinner looks like where you hold the central bearing and spin the outer part around with another finger? Do that to your wheels to make sure they are locked and are not slipping. the change key basically unlocks a little lever arm ratchet inside the wheel sandwich so that the outer wheel and gate and the inner hub can turn and then get mated together again when the change key is turned back and the lever arm ratching mechanism can latch onto the teeth of the inner hub.
I wonder wheel 2 is loose, not locked properly, or has something broken inside allowing for some slop to occur when dialing the combination.
You may find this video useful
This post by our very own GWiens2001 has so many awesome photos, all the way at the and it shows some with the wheels in locked and unlocked positions. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=62460
Hope this helps, Squelchtone
Thanks for your help sir.
I fiddled with it again today resetting the combination to my own numbers and it worked perfectly. Not sure why it was off the first time I reset it. I tried it 10 times and it worked properly every time.
