Group 2 Lock Question #2

[DB in Oregon]

The lock I'm working with has "The International 2000" cast into the backplate. All of the internal parts appear to be S&G. Did S&G make the this lock?

The symptom I am trying to correct is the dial not rotating smoothly. It seemed to stick and stutter making it a bit challenging to line the correct number up with the opening index mark when turning the dial slowly. In my first attempt I used Lubriplate white grease.

I disassembled the lock and followed the S&G instructions and lubricated just the outside of the of the wheel post and the inside where the drive cam makes contact. This did not solve the problem.

From the S&G documentation:
"All parts should be wiped thoroughly clean before applying lubricant. Use a thin, almost invisible film of AeroShell 22 (preferred),Novagard Versilube G-322-L, or Dow Corning Gn Metal Paste for all lubrication points inside all S&G lock cases. Aeroshell 22 is the current factory lube."

My second attempt was to wipe away all of the previously applied Lubriplate and apply BMW #10 lubricant, which is a heavier grease used for lubricating the transmission input shaft splines on BMW motorcycles. It is a much heavier grease. I lubricated the same points but also applied a tiny bit of grease to the outer surfaces of the center hubs of the wheels and also to the spring at the bottom of the pack that controls the torque (This is a non torque adjustable lock). This was an improvement but I am still getting some sticking and stuttering when I turn the dial slowly while trying to line up the numbers with the opening index.

Will using one of the S&G recommended lubricants solve my problem?

Are there any other lubricants that work well in these locks?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Dan
Corvallis, OR
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[Squelchtone]

Hello,

I think some photos would help us answer your question. Could you post some? Is the lock on your work bench or mounted to your or a customer's safe door?

Could the spindle connecting the dial to the drive cam be bent? Is the dial and dial ring centered in relation to the hole in the door?

Less grease is always better with safe locks, I would personally remove that BMW grease, this is a delicate lock not a transmission. Many safe locks fail to open because someone decided to pack them with heavy grease and then after a few years the grease hardens and the wheels dont move around the wheel post as indented.

Watch this super helpful video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjmLG8tNfWQ

Thanks,
Squelchtone

[DB in Oregon]

This lock is in an expensive safe that I purchased a month or so ago. No customers are involved. I'm a very curious person and have been attempting to learn about these locks. Here's a photo of the backplate:
https://ibb.co/tDFmfL2

Here is a photo of the lock with the backplate removed:
https://ibb.co/dM6kxr4

I had already watched the video you referenced. That's where I got the idea of making my alignment tool. I didn't want to disassemble the lock to measure the bores or the dial ring and wheel post so I turned a 30° taper on the parts to accommodate the diameters. I've used it on this lock and also to mount another lock on a lock stand. There is absolutely no resistance throughout the full 360° of the rotation of the dial to indicate any lack of concentricity on either lock.

Alignment Tool
https://ibb.co/5hch98M

Also, I only feel the stuttering when wheels 1 and 2 are being turned. When I dial the 3rd number the dial turns very smoothly.

What lubricant do you recommend?

Thank you for your reply and any help you can offer.

Dan
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[DB in Oregon]

Proofreading.

Oops!

Not Expensive... Inexpensive.

[MartinHewitt]

This is what S&G recommends:
https://sargentandgreenleaf.com/knowled ... 00-series/

Your locks doesn't have the torque adjustment mechanism, so there are no ramps. Instead I would lube the rear of the center piece of the wheel touching the case. S&G recommends a few lubes, but there are so many nice lubes available. Just take your favourite. And only a light film!

The nut which the change key turns is not well aligned in your lock. This can lead to number slipping.

[DB in Oregon]

Hi Martin,

I noticed the change key nut when I looked at the picture last night. I was experimenting and got that one out of sync with the others a couple of weeks ago. I guess I assumed that when I changed the combination after realigning it that the change key would get all of the nuts lined up. Evidently not. I'll take care of that immediately. I should probably check all of them. At that time I was not aware of the marks on the nut. I just learned about them a few days ago in the thread in this group that showed all of the internal parts of the lock.

My lock has a non-adjustable spring with ramps that sits under wheel 1. I don't know if it directly contacts wheel 1 or just pushes up on the spacer between it and wheel 1 on the wheel post.

Aeroshell 22 is a synthetic aviation grease. I'll try to find a little of that or something similar. I have the document you linked to and actually cited from it in my question.

Thanks for your reply.

Dan
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